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Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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- Thread starter
- #82
Ok, so I figured out why the radiator guard was in there loose - it would appear that the radiator support on the passenger side has been moved, and now conflicts with the mesh radiator guard if it is installed properly.
Interestingly, the radiator support on the driver's side does not conflict, but there is also no support in the mount...most likely has something to do with the V8 being off-center in the engine bay...
I'd be interested to hear some thoughts on how to get around this. Part of me says take a grinder to the mesh and cut a hole for the support - and I think that part of me is correct...But I hate tearing up otherwise good metal...
If the alternative is cutting the radiator support and mounting it elsewhere, however, this might be what I wind up doing.
Also, M6x1.0 don't fit through the holes in the bib mounting brackets. It's looking like m5 or even m4...
Thoughts?
Interestingly, the radiator support on the driver's side does not conflict, but there is also no support in the mount...most likely has something to do with the V8 being off-center in the engine bay...
I'd be interested to hear some thoughts on how to get around this. Part of me says take a grinder to the mesh and cut a hole for the support - and I think that part of me is correct...But I hate tearing up otherwise good metal...
If the alternative is cutting the radiator support and mounting it elsewhere, however, this might be what I wind up doing.
Also, M6x1.0 don't fit through the holes in the bib mounting brackets. It's looking like m5 or even m4...
Thoughts?
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- Thread starter
- #83
Looks like it would be about 1/4 inch by 1 inch cut in the mesh and the side wall. See the marks by the headlight, just below the center support/emblem bracket.
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- Thread starter
- #84
Progress...
Got a good couple hours of work in tonight. This included getting the new (to me) JTO rear tube bumper mounted. The only really challenge here was getting the old trailer hitch off (very rusty, 3/4 inch bolts made d@mn near impossible to get to by the Aux Tank).
The other issue was that the PO had not plugged the bumperette holes when he did a horrible job repainting the rear cross member. Thus, I had to spent some time with a chaser and a wire brush to actually find the threads.
Seems to me the bumper is a bit higher on the driver side - I'm not sure yet if this is a mounting issue, or if the bumper is tweaked a little bit. There's quite a bit of trail rash on the underside.
Got a good couple hours of work in tonight. This included getting the new (to me) JTO rear tube bumper mounted. The only really challenge here was getting the old trailer hitch off (very rusty, 3/4 inch bolts made d@mn near impossible to get to by the Aux Tank).
The other issue was that the PO had not plugged the bumperette holes when he did a horrible job repainting the rear cross member. Thus, I had to spent some time with a chaser and a wire brush to actually find the threads.
Seems to me the bumper is a bit higher on the driver side - I'm not sure yet if this is a mounting issue, or if the bumper is tweaked a little bit. There's quite a bit of trail rash on the underside.
- Thread starter
- #85
Progress where it actually matters...
I also managed to take care of some things in the engine bay tonight. Pulled the carburetor in preparation for a rebuild. Nothing makes me terribly nervous, aside from the fact that I will be drilling and tapping the bowl casting for sturdier welch plugs. Considering this aluminum is nearly 20 years older than I am...I'm a bit worried about its ability to handle a tap. I guess we'll see!
With the spaghetti monster out of the way, I also attempted to address the leaking intake manifold bolts that have been puddling oil under my carb since I bought the truck. I pulled the bolts one at a time, cleaned them up, cleaned the threads in the intake as best I could, gave them an overzealous coating of ARP, and ran them back in. Probably unnecessary - The two that had been pulling oil were barely finger tight, which is probably more the issue...
Also mounted the new throttle return spring bracket (so shiny
) and started mocking up a patch to block off the huge throttle cable hole in the firewall.
I also managed to take care of some things in the engine bay tonight. Pulled the carburetor in preparation for a rebuild. Nothing makes me terribly nervous, aside from the fact that I will be drilling and tapping the bowl casting for sturdier welch plugs. Considering this aluminum is nearly 20 years older than I am...I'm a bit worried about its ability to handle a tap. I guess we'll see!
With the spaghetti monster out of the way, I also attempted to address the leaking intake manifold bolts that have been puddling oil under my carb since I bought the truck. I pulled the bolts one at a time, cleaned them up, cleaned the threads in the intake as best I could, gave them an overzealous coating of ARP, and ran them back in. Probably unnecessary - The two that had been pulling oil were barely finger tight, which is probably more the issue...
Also mounted the new throttle return spring bracket (so shiny
) and started mocking up a patch to block off the huge throttle cable hole in the firewall.
- Thread starter
- #86
Looking ahead
The last of my power steering components came in (Thanks Kurt!)
So once my fuel delivery issues are solved, I'll be going through and undoing the dangerously bad saginaw mod performed by the PO.
While I'm at it, I'll be going with all new tie rod and drag link ends, so my steering should be good for another 20 years or so...
The last of my power steering components came in (Thanks Kurt!)
So once my fuel delivery issues are solved, I'll be going through and undoing the dangerously bad saginaw mod performed by the PO.
While I'm at it, I'll be going with all new tie rod and drag link ends, so my steering should be good for another 20 years or so...
- Thread starter
- #88
I've been speaking with Cliff Ruggles (Q-jet guru) and he seems to think that just epoxying is a band-aid
. I'll probably be doing both - drilling and tapping the primaries, and just epoxying the secondaries. Apparently the pre-1968 Q-jets like mine tend to be brittle around the secondaries so I'm hesitant to try and tap them. Any other tips or things to look for when I rebuild?
Throttle shaft bushings. New float. New choke pull off. All mandatory if the carb has a lot of age IMHO. Verify the jets and metering rods make sense for the engine. The phenolic float retainer can be a bit crumbly in the crap gas we get these days too.
- Thread starter
- #90
It's a 1967 quadrajet, so "some age" is an understatement. The one thing I didn't buy tool for was the throttle shaft bushings. I know I probably SHOULD do them, but the 40 idles really smoothly so if there's a vacuum leak, it's minimal. I'm sure I'll wind up paying for it as soon as I get the carb back on the truck...
I am losing fuel out of the bowl after a day or two, so I'm guessing welch plugs are shot. I'm also seeing fuel coming back up the accelerator pump onto the top of the carb - I'm guessing the float is fuel logged and causing (minor) flooding. Gas probably ate my accelerator pump too... I have all the parts to handle that...
Otherwise, I guess I'll pull it apart and see what crumbles!
- Thread starter
- #91
Got the Carb apart at lunch today (marketing guy, work from home on Friday ;p)
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the condition. A couple of weird things I found along the way:
1. The air horn is definitely warped. I probably have a 1-2mm gap under the straight edge - not sure how well the picture shows it...
2. The Welch plugs appear to never have been epoxied, but there was one of those "sponges" that rebuild kits used to come with below the secondary plugs, so it's safe to assume they leak, I think!
3. When I pulled the needle and seat, I found a really bizzare situation. It appears that the needle was not attached to the float at all...Nor did it have any attachment points to hang from the float. Is this just an older style setup? It's not one I'm familiar with!
Good news is: there is very little play in the throttle shaft, which is good because that's the one part of a "complete rebuild" I didn't buy components for. I wasn't having idle issues prior, and I don't anticipate that I will once I put it back together (knock on wood!)
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the condition. A couple of weird things I found along the way:
1. The air horn is definitely warped. I probably have a 1-2mm gap under the straight edge - not sure how well the picture shows it...
2. The Welch plugs appear to never have been epoxied, but there was one of those "sponges" that rebuild kits used to come with below the secondary plugs, so it's safe to assume they leak, I think!
3. When I pulled the needle and seat, I found a really bizzare situation. It appears that the needle was not attached to the float at all...Nor did it have any attachment points to hang from the float. Is this just an older style setup? It's not one I'm familiar with!
Good news is: there is very little play in the throttle shaft, which is good because that's the one part of a "complete rebuild" I didn't buy components for. I wasn't having idle issues prior, and I don't anticipate that I will once I put it back together (knock on wood!)
- Thread starter
- #92
I've got everything labeled, lined up, and ready for a dunk in the Berryman's after work! Surprisingly enough, the carb was relatively clean inside.
Stuck at home too. Recovering from shoulder surgery trolling the forums.
Keep the OEM brass float if it hasn't developed a leak. Cool!
The needle is hung from the float with a small wire clip. Should be one in the kit.
Good luck with the berrymans. Not the same stuff it was in the old days.
Keep the OEM brass float if it hasn't developed a leak. Cool!
The needle is hung from the float with a small wire clip. Should be one in the kit.
Good luck with the berrymans. Not the same stuff it was in the old days.
- Thread starter
- #94
Sorry to hear about your shoulder - I like my excuse better, working from my laptop on the deck sipping a beer and working on the 40 in my spare minutes here and there. I am not one of those guys who hates his job
The brass float doesn't seem to have anything sloshing around inside. I've heard that they are flakey though...Will the old float work with the new needle/seat?
Have you ever seen a needle WITHOUT the small wire clip/hanger? There seriously just isn't one on that needle...very confusing...I figured that was an integral part of that "seesaw" system going on there.
Only thing I can think of is maybe it's simply weighted to sink and the fuel pressure has to overcome it, in a situation where your pump puts out too much fuel pressure? I have no idea what PSI the pump is running...
That said, I pulled every piece of fuel line between my pump and the carb out of the truck today - no gas in any of them...so I think it's safe to say the fuel pump is next...
Berryman's is all the parts store had, so it's what I'll use! Got some spray stuff too. Worst case scenario I'll dunk everything for a few hours each.
Someone probably forgot to put the clip back on a previous rebuild. Never seen one without it. Of course you are working with a Buick version, but I think that clip would be there. I've heard others poo poo the metal float. Personally I think they are better. Can't get saturated, But you know what they say about opinions.
- Thread starter
- #96
That's what is so strange about this float - there literally isn't anywhere to hang the wire from, the top is a smooth surface, and then there's the little rubber plug on the bottom side to create the seal with the seat.
Very perplexing.
Very perplexing.
Thumbs up for having a job where you can stay home on Friday and work outside with your hands. (I did the same thing, but I own the company: one of the few perks I allow myself).
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- #98
Well, it's not QUITE that cool - I did have to actually work...I guess sitting on my deck and typing can be considered "working with my hands." It's not like I just get to sit around and mess with the 40 all day - but when there's down time, lunch, etc. I find myself under the truck...
- Thread starter
- #99
Cleaning, Drilling, and Tapping
Today's progress was mostly slowed down by the fact that I had 2 gallons of carb dip in a bucket that was not large enough to fit more than one section of the carb at a time. So I had to alternate soaking each piece individually for an hour or two...
That said - It's clean! Well, cleaner...clean enough to go back in the Clustertruck...
I forged ahead and around 12:30 tonight I was getting rid of the leaky lead welch plugs and replacing them with threaded steel plugs. This was done with a kit from Cliff Ruggles @ Cliff's High Performance.
1. Take a 1/8inch drill bit, and drill out the old plugs. If they didn't disintigrate, I knocked the edges in until the broke up.
2. Clean out whats left of the old plugs, then use a 10-32 tap to cut 3-4 turns worth of threads into the carburetor housing.
3. Insert the new plugs, coated in Marine-Tex (or another fuel-resistant) expoxy. This is going to happen tomorrow. The final picture shows the new plugs in place sans epoxy to get the effect.
The housing around the larger rear Welch plugs are apparently pretty brittle in the pre 1968 Quadrajets (mine is a 67). So to avoid trashing it, the rear plugs will just get a liberal coating of Marine Tex. Band-aid? Maybe...but replacing the e
epoxy in a couple years beats shelling out for a new carb.
Having never done any metal work before, and not having a backup carb, this whole procedure was terrifying to me. Took a couple Dogfish Head 60 minutes to calm me down, but it turned out to be pretty easy!
Today's progress was mostly slowed down by the fact that I had 2 gallons of carb dip in a bucket that was not large enough to fit more than one section of the carb at a time. So I had to alternate soaking each piece individually for an hour or two...
That said - It's clean! Well, cleaner...clean enough to go back in the Clustertruck...
I forged ahead and around 12:30 tonight I was getting rid of the leaky lead welch plugs and replacing them with threaded steel plugs. This was done with a kit from Cliff Ruggles @ Cliff's High Performance.
1. Take a 1/8inch drill bit, and drill out the old plugs. If they didn't disintigrate, I knocked the edges in until the broke up.
2. Clean out whats left of the old plugs, then use a 10-32 tap to cut 3-4 turns worth of threads into the carburetor housing.
3. Insert the new plugs, coated in Marine-Tex (or another fuel-resistant) expoxy. This is going to happen tomorrow. The final picture shows the new plugs in place sans epoxy to get the effect.
The housing around the larger rear Welch plugs are apparently pretty brittle in the pre 1968 Quadrajets (mine is a 67). So to avoid trashing it, the rear plugs will just get a liberal coating of Marine Tex. Band-aid? Maybe...but replacing the e
epoxy in a couple years beats shelling out for a new carb.
Having never done any metal work before, and not having a backup carb, this whole procedure was terrifying to me. Took a couple Dogfish Head 60 minutes to calm me down, but it turned out to be pretty easy!
- Thread starter
- #100
Got the plugs all epoxied this morning. Heated the casting to help it set. Started reassembly, taking a break for BBQ 
.
Also got the grill chopped where necessary, cleaned up, and primed. Tomorrow I will sand it, then, it's going back to black!
Got the holes drilled in my somewhat sloppily fabbed, but hopefully effective, firewall grommet/accelerator cable mount solution.
Fuel hoses and vacuum lines to carb replaced and installed, along with a new in-line filter.
Hopefully, tonight I'll be able to finish reassembly, then plug everything in tomorrow and see how I did on my first carb rebuild.
. Also got the grill chopped where necessary, cleaned up, and primed. Tomorrow I will sand it, then, it's going back to black!
Got the holes drilled in my somewhat sloppily fabbed, but hopefully effective, firewall grommet/accelerator cable mount solution.
Fuel hoses and vacuum lines to carb replaced and installed, along with a new in-line filter.
Hopefully, tonight I'll be able to finish reassembly, then plug everything in tomorrow and see how I did on my first carb rebuild.