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You wil love the Black box for gearing options. Going with the full box will help extended your front diveshaft and give you much better angles. Neapco joints offer a much better angle than Spicer stuff. HAD uses then and I have them in my 4500 car. Never had an issue with u-joints or drive shafts, and they got hammered on. He may have adapters for the t-case that will allow you to run a 1350 or 1410 joint or cv.
Do you have a completion date set?
If you do not know already, you can take the 32 spline front output from the Ford 205 and swap it in over the 10 spline chevy, or you may have gotten lucky and found a 30 spline but they are harder to find flanges for.No idea. All of the parts are there. Jason is finishing some projects and taking a few weeks off. I’d say it’s done by the end of the year.
I’m a big fan of going overboard on driveshafts.
Would be cool if the front and rear were close enough to carry one spare.
I had a sniper on my 1FZ and could never get it to run right. No one I took it to could get the map correct.Going sniper is something i would love to see more often.
Any plans for 3in pipes?
We have installed two of them on 1FZ with no issues at all. Not sure what was the deal on yoursI had a sniper on my 1FZ and could never get it to run right. No one I took it to could get the map correct.
Maybe none of them were good enough technically to do it, but a sniper on a 1FZ was not something I would recommend.
Going sniper is something i would love to see more often.
Any plans for 3in pipes?
I can also not stress enough the need for a mount for the Blackbox and a seperate rear mount for the rear of the 205. I broke two trans cases before I figured it out.
On that.Upgrade the steering gearbox to the 105 unit corresponding to 70 series. Bigger sector shaft and all that.
Assist. See above. Sorry I forgot that.I don’t see any steering details, ram assist or full hydro?
I have rebuild a bunch of them, modded shift rails for front dig, etc. Go with the Billet retainers for the bearing as well. Front and rear outputs, and the big round one on the back. You can also shave it to make it sit flat and re-index it. I went as far as drilling and tapping holes for a site glass for fluid level, similar to the one AA sells for the Atlas. They are big and heavy but just plain work. You will want to use the Ford 31 spline, or the GM 32 spline input for max strength.Jason is reading this. Im sure he’s taking notes.
@orangefj45 also told me he had some 411 on the Black Box to share for road use
Jason found the 205. I know nothing about them except they are heavy AF
NW Fab sold me something they said would make it shift better for digs. I can’t remember what.I have rebuild a bunch of them, modded shift rails for front dig, etc. Go with the Billet retainers for the bearing as well. Front and rear outputs, and the big round one on the back. You can also shave it to make it sit flat and re-index it. I went as far as drilling and tapping holes for a site glass for fluid level, similar to the one AA sells for the Atlas. They are big and heavy but just plain work. You will want to use the Ford 31 spline, or the GM 32 spline input for max strength.
I did this to the one in 4573.
It's the power steering pump on a 1FZ that's the issue with Hydro assist. Or maybe I'm going to learn something newOn that.
I think we actually will be using a 80/105 box if I remember Jason telling me this. Once he gets the range of steering he will send it off to Howe to be ported and matched with the correct hydraulic assist piston.
It's the power steering pump on a 1FZ that's the issue with Hydro assist. Or maybe I'm going to learn something new![]()