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What is the minimum amount of miles yall would put on a engine swap before deciding it was reliable enough to cross half the country?
 
What is the minimum amount of miles yall would put on a engine swap before deciding it was reliable enough to cross half the country?

depends on how much of an internal inspection was done prior to doin the install:)
 
Who did the swap...how many miles...what's the rest of the drivetrain like?

Motor swaps that I have done are turn key and go, but since I did it, if anything did go wrong I usually knew exactly where to look as some small things may have been questionable and weren't fixed right due to money or time constraints.
 
depends on how much of an internal inspection was done prior to doin the install:)

What would be the normal things to check internally, I was thinking if I could get it to start on a stand and had good oil pressure that would be good or is there more that normally gets checked.

Who did the swap...how many miles...what's the rest of the drivetrain like?

Motor swaps that I have done are turn key and go, but since I did it, if anything did go wrong I usually knew exactly where to look as some small things may have been questionable and weren't fixed right due to money or time constraints.

Probbably me as the mechanic in town does not want to mess with the conversion. (big minus I know but there will be very little wireing with the swap so that might save me)
 
What motor.
 
Think I'm loosing a wheel bearing on the Chevy but don't really know. I usually get play or just decided to change them while working on something else, but I haven't done much to this thing.

Anyway, I started hearing a whirring noise yesterday when I drove off to work. Put about 150 miles on it and on the way home, during a right hand curve, it started making a grinding noise that gets worse any time the wheel is turned to the right. You can also feel a vibration. I figure it has to be in a hub or in the front diff, but I don't know if the front diff is engaged full time or not. It has a push button 4wd system.
 
Sounds like the hub bearing assembly, easy to change they bolt in no need to press bearings. The hardest part is the cv nut, I pulled the dust shield, put the tire back on, and lowered the truck to allow the tire to hold tension to loosen the nut. Thats if a good impact is not available. With the larger tires on my Z71 this was a yearly event, and no one warrantied them more than a year. With the tire in the air you should have some play top to bottom if its the bearing.
 
Yep, started thinking it was the CV today due to squeaking and popping during a turn. Had the boss come get it and take it to the shop, he just called back and said it's already done and it was wheel bearing.
 
Can someone with a 1984-88 short bed pickup get me a mesurement on the length of the bedrails, and the width of the bedrails? I have a project I would like to use a toyota bed for but I need to figure out if the bed topper I have would fit it. otherwisde I will have to hunt down a 2nd gen S-10 bed.
 
Should be the same as your 4Runner.
 
Can someone with a 1984-88 short bed pickup get me a mesurement on the length of the bedrails, and the width of the bedrails? I have a project I would like to use a toyota bed for but I need to figure out if the bed topper I have would fit it. otherwisde I will have to hunt down a 2nd gen S-10 bed.
1988 Short Bed with the lip.
Length 76" od
width 60" od or 57" id
 
S10 may be a little wider, but it's fiberglass, just cut it to size.
 
While I have the 4runner apart I am thinking about painting the frame and axles. Those who have don e it before, whaty did you use?

I sualy cheep out and just use dollar store rattle cans on everything but was thinking that the rubberised undercoating in a can that places like vatozone sells might hold up better in the long run. Worth the price or just stick with paint?
 
Hit it with a gun and some tractor paint. That should hold up.
 
While I have the 4runner apart I am thinking about painting the frame and axles. Those who have don e it before, whaty did you use?

I sualy cheep out and just use dollar store rattle cans on everything but was thinking that the rubberised undercoating in a can that places like vatozone sells might hold up better in the long run. Worth the price or just stick with paint?

I used this stuff several times and it works great, you can go over it with a top coat like their chassis Black but don't really need to. Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust - Stop Rust and Corrosion
 
I was given an asbestos blanket :eek:, to throw on the "Diggla" while I'm welding up the rear bumper. Should I ditch it because of the possible carcinogen issue, or should I be ok?
 
I was given an asbestos blanket :eek:, to throw on the "Diggla" while I'm welding up the rear bumper. Should I ditch it because of the possible carcinogen issue, or should I be ok?


Wear a mask. Low levels of asbestos are acceptable. Products are still manufactured out of asbestos.
 
So whats a good winch bigger than the warn 12k?:hillbilly:
 

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