Tech Questions Here

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I looked on their website and didn't see them offering anything for the 80, I like the above but not crazy about cramping up the leg room up front would like 6 point over the front and rear seats going to rear wheel wells in the case of roll it would support the roof from crushing in.


There are many on mud as you know... if you're set on MT I'd just call em.

me
 
Somebody walk me through the removal of my rear springs. I've got Scott's jack stands. I'll need to borrow two jacks. How the heck do I use them and get everything off and back on? Also, bleeding the brake lines. Weekends suck so I may start right after work on Thursday in my garage and work through until I'm done. I saw some of this when we did the lift, but couldn't see the whole process so I have some blank spots here and there.

Edit: I know it's not a complicated process, mainly when and where to jack, which bolts to start undoing first, etc. I can figure out how to put it back together after doing it once by hand. Thanks.
 
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EGR Vacuum Modulator

Here's what it looks like after 19 years:
EGR2.jpg
 
Somebody walk me through the removal of my rear springs. I've got Scott's jack stands. I'll need to borrow two jacks. How the heck do I use them and get everything off and back on? Also, bleeding the brake lines. Weekends suck so I may start right after work on Thursday in my garage and work through until I'm done. I saw some of this when we did the lift, but couldn't see the whole process so I have some blank spots here and there.

Edit: I know it's not a complicated process, mainly when and where to jack, which bolts to start undoing first, etc. I can figure out how to put it back together after doing it once by hand. Thanks.


Ok so here's the vagina guy taking a stab at this but you could do it w/ just the two stands (although good to have something under your axles I'd think) and no need to bleed your brakes. We changed your brake lines last time so that's why we did that.. you're not lengthening or shortening them.. they should be good.

1. Jack up the front w/ the stands under the frame for support.
2. Chock the back wheels unless you find another set of stands...
2. Really do it in reverse of how we finished last time: Release the u-bolts, then the shackles, then the pins (spring pin) and shocks. Be careful not to ruin your good bushings getin all that crap off.


Good luck!

Ok, someone tell him really how to do it ;p
 
My .2

1. Jack the truck up where the wheels just come off the groud setup the jackstands under the frame on each side so when you let the truck down the tires just barely touch the ground on both sides.
2. Take one spring off at a time, start at the u-bolts, the the hanger pin then the shackle.
3. Change each side that way.

Note as you ease off the ubolts it'll slowly unload the spring, when you start to bolt the replaced spring back on you can take the jack under the axle on that side to lift it a lttile until you get it positioned in the shackle and spring hanger. Then let the jack down slowly where the hole in the perch is on the stud in the spring pack. This way should make it easy on you.

Have fun.
 
Best Locker Choice?

Hey I think the first thing I want to do is add a rear locker. The cage will have to wait a little while. I know I've heard ya'll say open is better if you're just starting out, but I really would rather idle through stuff than have to blow through it and hit something.

I've read a little about the different locker brands, but I'm a little confused. Is the ARB the only locker you can turn off fully? If so, is that the only real choice if you want to drive on the street? Of course you know I will take it offroad MAYBE 10x a year, and it won't be my DD. But I will want to drive it in town when I'm not in a hurry.
 
kinda tech

I see some guys running A/T tires and some running M/T, is there one better than the other for trail riding. right now I have some Hankook A/Ts, and dont know whether i need to be thinking about new tires or not.

I dont have a locker right now if that makes a difference!
 
It's good that you asked this question here first because in other areas you'd get hammered and see the words "REPOST" or "SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND". It may not be a bad option to go to the forum for your model pickup and use the search function and see what the MUD members are running and why they chose the ones they like or hate the ones they hate.

I think MT's are so valuable when on the trails. I think many will say that the BF Goodrich MTs work very well in all the places we've been and are really good on the streets too. I run BF Goodrich ATs and really like them and have gone on some good rides and gotten to the end of the trail with just those. WIth that said, I know I haven't even scratched the surface of where I could go if I upgraded my tires. My next purchase will be MTs and so far, I think BF Goodrich really hold up well and that's important to me b/c I can't afford a set of trail-only tires and street-only tires.

I'm sure others will chime in and give good advice.
 
You can drive on the street with an auto locker. Detroit(Eaton) and Aussie lockers are great products and a lot cheaper than ARB. The auto locker will just feel funny and kick a bit if you apply gas fast when there is no pressure on the rear diff. You get better as you learn, to not do this, but find myself in situations that require me to stomp and let off the gas frequently trying to keep up with modern vehicles and traffic. I personally don't like them for the street or hi-way. Some guys love them. I would go ARB all the way, if I had the money or no locker at all. I do have one, but it stays off-road. Maybe someone could let you drive their auto-locked rig to see if it is right for you instead of paying 2X as much for ARB first.
 
If it were me, the angel on my shoulder would tell me, "Run the ATs until they need to be replaced, then get a MT that has good onroad manners like the Toyo, BFG, or Yokohamas(I have these)."

Then I would listen to the devil when he said, "At the rate you drive it will be years before you wear these out" and I go buy MTs today.

:bang:
 
thanks. one reason i asked here is cause some of the guys elsewhere seem to just go with the biggest and best money can buy, and i dont have that kinda pocketbook. i guess ill just have to do a lot of powerbraking and bald my out so i can tell the wife i "need" new tires!!! LOL
 
Do I have to have all four tires off the ground, or just the rear?

Just on the end your working. Changing the rear right?
 
If you have the $$$ I vote ARB!

(Jacque) Coonass will give you a small brake in $ from toyota of Dallas.

me
 
I've been reading up on the Aussie locker. It sounds good, but I'm still unsure.

One consideration is I also want some sort of air for my tires, either OBA or a CO2 system. A CO2 setup is anywhere from $2-300 bucks, and if the Aussie locker is $300 shipped,say $550 for both.

With ARB I'd need a locker + compressor. I'm guessing I could get them for around $1000...

I think ultimately I will end up with ARB, but I'm also trying to stretch the budget right now so I can take the new 40 to (hopefully) GSMTR in May, Ramble in June, and Sicily Island in July.

I talked to a couple of people on mud who have pulled 40's on a trailer with a FJ cruiser, and I think it's worth a shot.

So, I'm looking for a 'light' tandem axle trailer, locker, (soft?) doors, family cage, and the biggest thing, stuff that will make it possible for a female to tolerate camping in the south during the summer. That is a toughie, and the more I look, it may just be cheaper to get a hotel, but then I'd miss out on the nightly fun haha. (Ok just read the fun thing, yes my priorities have definitely been mixed up since joinging!)

I know I should just take it slow and add stuff over time, and the cage can probably wait some. I'm not going to put Blake at risk, and I already scared him enough in the FJC so I'd be less prone to do anything risky in the 40. The last thing I want is to make him skittish to come to the rides.
 
ARB's are the best on and off locker. I just don't care for them. The Detroit is a great way to go as well. I'm a fan of the Aussie it works great and can't beat the price for what it is. I hit the trail the very next day I put it in with no break in time. Numerous trips to Sicily, Expo, Cruiser Crawl and worked flawless. There was only once where I wish I had one in the front. :D
 
So if I go with the Aussie in the rear the cruiser won't explode on the road? If I've read things correctly, as long as I don't pretend I'm in a Corvette the Aussie locker will be fine onroad? Do you think it had anything to do with your flop the other day?
 
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