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Does my truck have an EGR valve?

Your rig has one just like the 80....but they RARELY ever go out...usually the EGR Modulator is plug or faulty...and those usually just need a gentle cleaning...it's atop the engine in a clip....plastic the top part actually comes off and theres a cotton-like filter inside.

Use canned air to blow out....

Later

mike
 
Your rig has one just like the 80....but they RARELY ever go out...usually the EGR Modulator is plug or faulty...and those usually just need a gentle cleaning...it's atop the engine in a clip....plastic the top part actually comes off and theres a cotton-like filter inside.

Use canned air to blow out....

Later

mike

Very cool. Thanks. I may get you to spot me though.
 
Your rig has one just like the 80....but they RARELY ever go out...usually the EGR Modulator is plug or faulty...and those usually just need a gentle cleaning...it's atop the engine in a clip....plastic the top part actually comes off and theres a cotton-like filter inside.

Use canned air to blow out....

Later

mike

Trying right now to get the top off.

Edit: I got it off and the "cotton-like fiber" was packed in there pretty good and the bottom side of it was real dark. I tried to clean out the modulator and checked the lines going in and out of it. I didn't have any compressed air to clean the fiber. I'll look for that at work tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Bad News

the pickup has a bad Oil leak its parked until further notice.

Saturday my Dad and I were going to replace and properly route all my Vaccum lines since my truck doesnt idle right, and we noticed that what we had been assuming was all power steering fluid( i have a leak on my PS Pump) is in fact mostly engine oil. but we cant find were its coming from its running down the PS bracket and dripping off from there. we can only assume its coming from behind the timing cover(which sucks i dont want to have to take that off).

if anyone has any input it would be appreciated.
 
the pickup has a bad Oil leak its parked until further notice.

Saturday my Dad and I were going to replace and properly route all my Vaccum lines since my truck doesnt idle right, and we noticed that what we had been assuming was all power steering fluid( i have a leak on my PS Pump) is in fact mostly engine oil. but we cant find were its coming from its running down the PS bracket and dripping off from there. we can only assume its coming from behind the timing cover(which sucks i dont want to have to take that off).

if anyone has any input it would be appreciated.

The 22R and 3.0 engines are easy to work on. If you need to get to a leaking cam or crank seal it'll give you a good reason to change the timing belt or chain. I don't know the details of your truck like what kind of mileage you have on it and what engine you have. I've had the 22R, 22RE Turbo, 3.0, and two 3.4 in the Taco and 4-Runner. I'll say this if you maintain and take care of them they'll run longer than you'll keep'em and I found all of them easy to work on. Not that any of that helped just that whatever it is its not as bad as it seems. :)
 
Thanks.

I have the 3.0L it has 176,000 on it. and from what i've heard while i have the cover off i might as well change the water pump also, is this true?

the motor seems to be OK. it was swapped into this truck out of one that was wrecked. and the guy just didnt do a very good job of hooking all the hoses and stuff up, so i have a lot of little stuff like that to do.
 
Thanks.

I have the 3.0L it has 176,000 on it. and from what i've heard while i have the cover off i might as well change the water pump also, is this true?

the motor seems to be OK. it was swapped into this truck out of one that was wrecked. and the guy just didnt do a very good job of hooking all the hoses and stuff up, so i have a lot of little stuff like that to do.

I have some pictures from my engine swap, a few spare parts, and also can probably swing by during the week and you can compare how everything is hooked up on mine. I know how vacuum hoses can go.
 
I have some pictures from my engine swap, a few spare parts, and also can probably swing by during the week and you can compare how everything is hooked up on mine. I know how vacuum hoses can go.

swing by where?
 
Thanks.

I have the 3.0L it has 176,000 on it. and from what i've heard while i have the cover off i might as well change the water pump also, is this true?
quote]

I totally agree. When I would do my timing-belt or chain I'd always change out the waterpump while I was in there. The belts are usually good to 100K under normal wear and the chains to 120 or so before the plastic guides gave out. Thats not dealer recommended mileage. Check the tensioners can't remember if its one or two on there but they get rusty and the sealed bearing starts whining. Its worth the extra effort to change it as well. When I have to go into a job like that I only want to do it once so I tend to get it all while I'm in there. :)

Will move these posts to maintenance area. :wrench:
 
do i have to pay my dues and offically become a member before taking advantage of the discounts at Musson?
 
do i have to pay my dues and offically become a member before taking advantage of the discounts at Musson?

Yes Sir you may save the $25 dollars you paid in dues on your first order :) The discount is only good with a card we'll give you. Its so folks off the street can't walk in and say I'm a member of BSLCA .
 
i thought you would be wise enough to have a system in place for that. how much of a discount is it?
 
fj 62 overheating problem

hey guys, i am having some trouble with my fj62. shes not running at normal temp. within 18 minutes it goes up a little above the 3rd line of 4 lines on the gauge but doesnt go into the red. i recently replaced my thermostat. doesnt lose any water. top hose and of radiator are extremely hot but the bottom hose and of the rad are just warm. it will stay at that temp wether on highway, stoppped, idling, or in town. i am guessing it might be bad flow in the rad. i am going to try a radiator flush kit or get mine boiled. got any ides of what it might be? anything helps. any products ya'll would recommend. thanx, l8r guys
 
Sounds like your flow is restricted. A radiator clean out sounds in order.
 
I"m sure someone w/ much more "know how" can help you but I've seen/heard folks using laser thermometers on radiators for readings and knowing if that is the problem. You can pay > $100 for them or dirt cheap at Harbor Freight. I think the easiest, cheapest and quickest just to get it out of the way is to flush it well. I've used the prestone kit that requires a few flushings and running it for a couple of hours for a week or so then reflush. Works well I'd think. Also there is a "flush kit" as I"m sure you're aware. I don't like the plastic, but like the idea. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/51567-radiator-flush-kit-t-location.html


Good luck

Bx
 
Is the AC controls supposed to be lighted? my AC button has a light on it but the rest of the controls don't.:frown:
 

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