Tacoma TRD E-Locker retrofit...PLEASE HELP!!!

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Go to gearinstalls.com for info on gear set up. I personally have put 91 V6 gears into an E locker out of an 07 (I think) FJ Cruiser. Yes the pinion flange had a different spline count, but it's not a big deal...

Looked at his page today...man that guy is a prodigy when it comes to gear / diff setups. Too bad he hasn't done an E-locker-into-pre-tacoma-6 cyl-diff/axle yet...or maybe I'm just blind...:hhmm:
 
I don't think he has a write up on the axle housing modifications (I thought you were asking about ring and pinion setups), but there are plenty of those on the internet. I think I have a few linked in the FAQ thread. :cheers:
 
Now if anybody has any advice or tips for the install, it would be greatly appreciated :)

I suggest you read every thread in the FAQ and make sure you read every link that is referenced in those threads. The mechanical part isn't difficult and it's all spelled out in there. You can make the wiring as difficult (like me) or as simple (12volt guy) as you want.
 
Do like Foxfab says, don't use the OEM studs for the actuator, use long bolts. Should be M8 x 110mm long, IIRC.

Don't count on the gasket to locate where to drill and tap the new holes. Cut the notch, grind, do the welding, file flat. Then back out the housing where needed so the big bearing cap will clear. Drop the diff into the housing, then use the biggest drill bit that will fit into the remaining holes to ding the housing so the marks are as close to center as possible. Pull the diff back out, drill & tap.

The first time I did one of these, I had a friend cut the notch on his Bridgeport. Way overkill. Drill out the corners of the notch, cut as much as you can with a cutoff tool, finish with a sawzall or a jigsaw. Clean it up a little with a die grinder. It goes pretty quickly.
 
Do like Foxfab says, don't use the OEM studs for the actuator, use long bolts. Should be M8 x 110mm long, IIRC.

Don't count on the gasket to locate where to drill and tap the new holes. Cut the notch, grind, do the welding, file flat. Then back out the housing where needed so the big bearing cap will clear. Drop the diff into the housing, then use the biggest drill bit that will fit into the remaining holes to ding the housing so the marks are as close to center as possible. Pull the diff back out, drill & tap.

The first time I did one of these, I had a friend cut the notch on his Bridgeport. Way overkill. Drill out the corners of the notch, cut as much as you can with a cutoff tool, finish with a sawzall or a jigsaw. Clean it up a little with a die grinder. It goes pretty quickly.



Thank you for the head's up...this is all good stuff, errors I probably would have made (i.e. use the gasket to pinpoint where to drill holes for the studs...lol). Much appreciated!!:cheers:
 
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