The reproduction has all the screw holes both top and bottom, which are present on one half of each piece of rubber. The other half has tracks only.
For Sale SWB Fixed Cab Rear Split Window Rubber Extrusion Group Buy
- Thread starter 67azcruizr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks again Roger for making this happen!!
K so my skill of computers are limited and I'm perfectly happy with that so I pulled my rear slider out took templates of both the operable and non operable window and reinstalled. @Racer65 i do not know how to make a pdf out of it but anyone who wants a hard copy send me a pm and I will mail you copy of the templates I made from my original windows that you should be able to easily take to a glass shop and have cut out. Also @Racer65 im sure @Ndisgyz would be good with you sharing a pdf template if you or Scott have it from his builds.
Last edited:
@middlecalf i installed the non operable window into the rubber then installed into the truck. Leaving the top out a little on the operable side at that point am able to put bottom of operable window into the track and slide all the way almost shut leaving only about 2 inches of rubber I had to gently fold up over the glass and then push into place and screw in. My earlier truck I've pulled the rubber twice and done it this way with success. Its original rubber so guessing the new will be a little tougher but mine has worked just fine for years this way. When I painted the truck 12 years ago I sprayed the ever living piss out of the rubber with PAM and it keeps it very maluable and tight seal.
^ awesome @sofj45, thanks for doing this!
Working on this, glass is getting cut. Question for the parts book owners, if someone can pass along the part number for part N (lock, qty 2) in the attached pic that’d be great. I don’t have these, I know they‘re long gone but thought I’d search anyhow. If someone has ones they no longer need I’d be interested in them. If I could get some pics of such maybe I can find something that will work. Thanks for any info.
Thanks for posting the pic @sofj45. So does that lock cam bear against the glass or does it just block the sliding window from sliding? There’s a notch in the rubber that must be where the cam sits when employed, is my guess? The glass cutter cut the glass exactly to your patterns and the edge of the glass is just past that notch, so the cam would have to press on the glass. It doesn‘t look like there are rubber bumpers on the cam which I’d expect if bearing on the glass, but maybe I have the lock’s functionality all messed up. Happy Thanksgiving in any case!
The green truck the locks have thin clear rubber about 1/4" up the lock section. I can take some more photos once home of them in locked and unlocked that was just a photo I had on my phone and zoomed into screen shot. But they lock into the down position right at the edge of glass so that it can't slide open. passengers side actually has a shard missing from the edge against the lock from before me.
Did they get the etching into the glass for the finger slides?
Did they get the etching into the glass for the finger slides?
Last edited:
No, they can’t etch laminated glass. To do the etched grooves I would have had to go with tempered glass and that would require sending out to some other glass place that does tempering. And a lot more $’s 
. I’m going to use the stick-on slide thingys that are clear so it will look nearly the same. Thanks for any pics you can post, they help a lot.
. I’m going to use the stick-on slide thingys that are clear so it will look nearly the same. Thanks for any pics you can post, they help a lot.
Last edited:
Mostly in. Two of sixteen screws still need to be installed (somehow) - the two upper and center ones next to the middle gasket.
I was wondering if the original screw holes would line up with the new gasket’s holes. Just how ‘instrumented‘ were these holes drilled originally at the factory install and therefore how much variance would exist between rigs? Twelve of the holes were close enough to each other, just a bit of finagling the gasket and screw to get the screws in the original holes. The lower holes near the inside corner needed to be redrilled (or could use self tapping screws) as the holes were 1/2” off, and I could get my close quarters drill in there to make new holes. As mentioned above, the upper centered holes on each side are not aligned, not sure how far off as it’s difficult to get hands and/or tools in there, and I can’t use any of my drill options. So those screws and holes are unused right now. I installed everything with glass in place. Maybe with glass out and just the gasket installed it would have been easier to install the screws but I’m not sure I’d have gotten the glass back in, esp. the fixed run.
Glass size is critical for fit and slidability of the slider pane. I used templates from @sofj45 and the laminated panes seem to fit pretty well. Stiff sliding right now, so I’ve fluid film’d the runs, we‘ll see how things go as time goes by. Rather than ground in finger grooves, I’ll put these on when they show up. Amazon product ASIN B00E4BHDJM. Hopefully they work.
I was wondering if the original screw holes would line up with the new gasket’s holes. Just how ‘instrumented‘ were these holes drilled originally at the factory install and therefore how much variance would exist between rigs? Twelve of the holes were close enough to each other, just a bit of finagling the gasket and screw to get the screws in the original holes. The lower holes near the inside corner needed to be redrilled (or could use self tapping screws) as the holes were 1/2” off, and I could get my close quarters drill in there to make new holes. As mentioned above, the upper centered holes on each side are not aligned, not sure how far off as it’s difficult to get hands and/or tools in there, and I can’t use any of my drill options. So those screws and holes are unused right now. I installed everything with glass in place. Maybe with glass out and just the gasket installed it would have been easier to install the screws but I’m not sure I’d have gotten the glass back in, esp. the fixed run.
Glass size is critical for fit and slidability of the slider pane. I used templates from @sofj45 and the laminated panes seem to fit pretty well. Stiff sliding right now, so I’ve fluid film’d the runs, we‘ll see how things go as time goes by. Rather than ground in finger grooves, I’ll put these on when they show up. Amazon product ASIN B00E4BHDJM. Hopefully they work.
@middlecalf did they ease the edges at all on the slider piece? To where it's not just a square cut edge to help with the smoothness of sliding. Here's some photos of the locks., Haveing trouble getting photos to load will try again or send you in a pm if I can't get them loaded
Last edited:
The edges are rounded a bit. He's made sliders before for other old US brand restos but each one is unique so it's always a crap shoot unless they're doing the whole install and can check fit, pull, redo, etc.
Possibility
www.boatoutfitters.com
Sliding Door and Window Stop
Secure your boat with Boat Outfitters' Sliding Door & Window Stop. Durable and easy to install. Shop now and get the best protection for your boat!
www.boatoutfitters.com
That looks like it would work.Possibility
Sliding Door and Window Stop
Secure your boat with Boat Outfitters' Sliding Door & Window Stop. Durable and easy to install. Shop now and get the best protection for your boat!
@middlecalf I believe you would have to put a bend in the tab with the rubber on it as you would need to mount the hinge section lower on the frame than what that would allow by the look, the factory ones mount down below the rubber and then extend up with the hinge section right at the notch in rubber.
You could always put a cut down the center of the black rubber latch section bend half forward leave the other half sticking up so you had the pull handle on the inside when it was in lock position
You could always put a cut down the center of the black rubber latch section bend half forward leave the other half sticking up so you had the pull handle on the inside when it was in lock position
If anyone out there wants to recreate the factory lock I will forfeit one of mine to be replicated. Don't think it would be all that hard but beyond my skills of making it look oem, I'll take one with me this next week when I head to Oregon and go talk with a small fab shop owner that's done some work for me before.
@Racer65 if you have any interest it would go along great with the rubber you've done for all us early cruiser people
@Racer65 if you have any interest it would go along great with the rubber you've done for all us early cruiser people
Last edited:
If someone reproduces them I’ll buy 4.
Just thinking out loud on that marine sliding door lock @sofj45, it or the install wouldn’t be OEM-like for sure. If used without modifying (aka bending like you suggested) it would have to be mounted further to the side than the original(s) so new holes in the back frame required, and it would need to be mounted on a spacer away from the back so the rubberized tab would simply lean back against the fixed pane (hence the goodness in it being rubber coated) and simply block the path of the sliding pane. To open just flip the tab back over out of the way. The company said the tab rotates through approximately 260-deg so it would work from that standpoint. There are two sizes of these, one a little less than 3” in total length and one just over 3.5” so not sure which one is best to clear the rubber gasket when tilted back and not be too offensive. I’ve also looked a bit into modifying regular hinges to sort of function the same way. A repop would be good but I’m already well over $500 in on this not including my labor and I’m not sure they’re really even necessary as you mentioned earlier due to the size of the windows - someone could reach in an unlock the doors I guess - I do have functioning locks but probably won’t even be using them. I don’t have the finger grooves in my glass on the outside so given the sliding stiffness it might be a wee bit difficult to open from the outside anyhow. Probably easier to just pry or kick the sliding glass out 
. And where I’m driving and using this rig that 2nd amendment thing comes into play 
.
but probably won’t even be using them. I don’t have the finger grooves in my glass on the outside so given the sliding stiffness it might be a wee bit difficult to open from the outside anyhow. Probably easier to just pry or kick the sliding glass out . And where I’m driving and using this rig that 2nd amendment thing comes into play .