suspension upgrade

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Little off topic but does yours have a solid front axle! And do they heavily salt the roads up there as well?
 
I too used a sawzall when I cut mine off. Maybe a grinder would work, but they also remove metal sideways. My suggestion would be to get rid of the sleeve. Drill out the hanger (get a real 18mm drill bit) and replace the bolt with an 18mm. I seem to remember I bought mine from Roger (4crawler.com). Give him a ring and see if he can help. Pay attention on the gas tank side. The bolts I had ran into the tank.
 
I will check that out. Tried sawzall and Dewalt and things are going very slowly. I will probably get back to it Thursday. I have a little cut off tool like a Dremel which takes cutoff wheels, but not a real hand held grinder. I will try a few more things before buying or renting a little grinder.
The dermal may work but likely won't cut deep enough and will go through wheels very fast.
I understand having to work around not having a tool. Maybe someone local has one to borrow. For me a grinder was one of the first metal working tools I bought.
 
Put about 8 hours into it. Not including running to Home Depot etc. Got one rear spring removed. Trashed many sawzall blades. Bought a grinder, which I haven't used yet. Looks like I can't reuse the shackles. Upper one has a weird taper to it. Any comments on OME vs Toyota shackles? I will try to post pix. I want the shackle to be close to stock for now.

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I was kind of leaving one side with the tire on because it feels safer until I'm closer to re-assembly. But I can pull it all now if it will line up better and reduce frustration. Chasing new shackles right now. The frustration level with the old bushings is already pretty high.
 
Does anybody on Mud know if an OME GS3 shackle actually works on a 1990 pickup? ARB dealer wasn't sure if they worked and they are not returnable. Stock shackles from Toyota run over $300 in Canada.
 
Passenger side rear spring came off nicely. Mostly the impact and a lot of drilling out of the shackle bushing. No sawzall or grinder at all. Now waiting for shackles. Might have to start on the front while I wait.
 
I have a set of flat bar shackles I made out of 1/4" the bolt holes are 3.25" center to center. set up for a 19mm or 3/4" bolt. The only problem is mine are straight. They could probably be re shaped in a vice with a hammer. Or you could half ass it and leave them straight the only drawback I see is excessive wear to the bushing from them looking like this \ / If you want them how is $20 and shipping from 17601? Bolts not included. I used a greasable bolt from TG.

I would also suggest flipping your drive shaft so the slip yoke is up at the t case. I feel that end is the most prone to damage from rocks and such. If the holes on the flanges are different. Just turn it 45* and re drill it.

The pic of the broken leaf. It must be a toyota thing. I feel I see that alot on stock leafs.
 
Is that not the way it has always been in? I will look at reversing it after the pass side spring is in. Driver's side is in place. Shackle currently points forward, which kind of worries me, but I guess the springs will settle. Will post pix later this week when I get back to it. Truck is about 20 ks away at a carport with level concrete.
 
The drive shafts may of come installed from the factory that way. I had flipped mine on my 4runner. If it's a 2 piece shafts you may be out of luck. My old taco was that way.
 
Yup. 2 piece shaft. I will look at it anyway. I haven't actually looked at it since I broke a u-joint in Juneau. As far as the broken leaf goes, I'm ok with it, because it did last 25 years.
 
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