Suspension Fun

[CharlieS]

So I dug into my suspension project today. Good fun.

I'm looking for advice on three things:

• Tips for removing the outer tie rod from the spindle (BFH to the side of the casting didn't work). Special tool people prefer?
• How to get clearance to remove the passenger side rear spring (disconnect the pan hard bar??)
• Tips for removing a buggered nut on the front upper strut mount (of course it is the inside front one that is the hardest to access).

It seems like junk collects in the low spot and it just rusted this nut to the point where it isn't removable with a 14mm anymore.

The 14mm doesn't have any purchase and the 13mm won't fit over it. There's no room to hammer a socket over it, and it is too tight to get a Dremel in there. I'm dreading getting at it in this small space.

I also had lots of fun with removing the rear shocks. The lower bolts came out fine, but the upper nut was rusted solid. Solution: reciprocating saw, 9" metal blade, and patience.

Lots of room to work in:

 

[turbo8]

I believe I used a "pitman arm puller" from autozone to remove the tie rod end.

Yes, remove panhard bar to remove rear spring. You will probably need a ratchet strap to pull the axle back into place.

Not sure how to help ya with the stripped nut.

 

[CharlieS]

Lacking a pitman arm puller, I grabbed the ol' brass hammer and with a few solid whacks, was able to pop the tie rod ends loose. One down.

I disconnected the pan hard bar, but that didn't give me room to remove the passenger rear spring. Maybe because I was only able to open one of two KDSS valves (one is stuck)? What am I missing?

 

[grinchy]

Maybe try an impact socket in 14mm. You probably have though. Doesn’t seem like sae sizes are a good in between. 9/16 too big 1/2 too small

 

[Sandroad]

Lacking a pitman arm puller, I grabbed the ol' brass hammer and with a few solid whacks, was able to pop the tie rod ends loose. One down.

I disconnected the pan hard bar, but that didn't give me room to remove the passenger rear spring. Maybe because I was only able to open one of two KDSS valves (one is stuck)? What am I missing?

Probably the KDSS thing. I did not have to completely remove anything (just moved a couple things out of the way) to get the rear springs out for an airbag install. Plenty of droop with both valves cracked 3 turns. Are you trying to do both springs at once?

 

[Sandroad]

So I dug into my suspension project today. Good fun.

I'm looking for advice on three things:

• Tips for removing the outer tie rod from the spindle (BFH to the side of the casting didn't work). Special tool people prefer?
• How to get clearance to remove the passenger side rear spring (disconnect the pan hard bar??)
• Tips for removing a buggered nut on the front upper strut mount (of course it is the inside front one that is the hardest to access).

View attachment 2277626
View attachment 2277627
It seems like junk collects in the low spot and it just rusted this nut to the point where it isn't removable with a 14mm anymore.

The 14mm doesn't have any purchase and the 13mm won't fit over it. There's no room to hammer a socket over it, and it is too tight to get a Dremel in there. I'm dreading getting at it in this small space.

I also had lots of fun with removing the rear shocks. The lower bolts came out fine, but the upper nut was rusted solid. Solution: reciprocating saw, 9" metal blade, and patience.

View attachment 2277633
View attachment 2277635
Lots of room to work in:
View attachment 2277650

Are you using a 6 point socket on that nut? No way a 12 point will work on one that round, but a 6 might grab if you can get it all the way on.

 

[CharlieS]

@Sandroad - Good call, I was using a 12 point. Let me try a 6 point.

I am trying to do all at once - uninstall everything, then install everything. I can install the driver side - that may make the passenger side work. I hadn't considered that. There is definitely a pivot point in play here. Thanks for the idea!

@grinchy - My standard wrenches didn't work either. 1/2 too small, 9/16 was too large. I don't have impact sockets that small in SAE.

I wish there was better access. I'd pound a socket on there destructively and call it a day. I'm thinking I need to find a way to dick around with a Dremel to split the nut. Too bad my flex shaft gave up the ghost, maybe time to upgrade...

 

[CharlieS]

The funniest part is this:

Just remove the top and bottom bolts. That's all.

It's like the old Clymer manuals that said the reassembly is the reverse of removal.

 

[grinchy]

Heat and spray with canned air? Cutting torch?

 

[Mogwai]

Lacking a pitman arm puller, I grabbed the ol' brass hammer and with a few solid whacks, was able to pop the tie rod ends loose. One down.

I disconnected the pan hard bar, but that didn't give me room to remove the passenger rear spring. Maybe because I was only able to open one of two KDSS valves (one is stuck)? What am I missing?

Would have to assume one valve for the front, one for the back. Disconnect rear sway bar link, but you don't normally have to do this. And have someone stand on the rotor, the rear passenger spring is a biotch.

 

[Supra88]

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I'm amazed at the corrosion resistance decline in the Land Cruisers. Other than a few spots in the body, the underside of my 80 has held up pretty well through 24 Michigan winters. My 100 fared much worse. I'm worried for my currently rust free 200.

 

[CharlieS]

Heat and spray with canned air? Cutting torch?

It may come to that. I have oxy acetylene torches (what my friend calls "the flame wrench"), but I haven't had them out in years. I hope it doesn't come to that - this is an awkward spot...

 

[CharlieS]

Are you using a 6 point socket on that nut? No way a 12 point will work on one that round, but a 6 might grab if you can get it all the way on.

@Sandroad for the win! Thanks man. The six point tool was the secret. 12 point stuff just slipped. Once I was able to get a 6 point socket on there and break it free, the rest was easy. Thank you.

And thank you everyone for the ideas and tips.

Today's first question: has anyone installed remote reservoir brackets under the rear bump stops? I can't seem to get things lined up where the two bolts on the bottom of the bump stop can go into their threaded holes (because the reservoir bracket essentially shims them outboard the thickness of the material to where the holes in the bump stop no longer line up with the threaded holes).

The hack I'm thinking of is to oval out the holes so they are more like a slot to accommodate this misalignment.
Before I do that, are there smarter ways to do this?

 

[619TOY]

I disconnected the pan hard bar, but that didn't give me room to remove the passenger rear spring. Maybe because I was only able to open one of two KDSS valves (one is stuck)? What am I missing?

My preferred method of removing rear springs. Only the panhard disconnected. I’m sure I’ll take some crap for this, but it works. Just don’t stick your head in there ...

 

[CharlieS]

Thank you @619TOY - that did it!

For the bump stops, I slotted the lower holes with a hacksaw and files. It worked great. I will buy two new ones next time I put a parts order in, slot them, paint the raw edges and replace the rusty ones in there now.

 

[CharlieS]

Rear all finished. Whew.

BudBuilt shock protector/skids.

 

[bloc]

Were you one of the guys wanting to keep king 2.5 as low as possible in front?

 

[Supra88]

Rear all finished. Whew.

View attachment 2278492
BudBuilt shock protector/skids.
View attachment 2278493

Very nice!

 

[CharlieS]

Were you one of the guys wanting to keep king 2.5 as low as possible in front?

Yes. Should give me 1.5" per Ben at Filthy Motorsports.

 

[CharlieS]

Can anyone save me some searching and share front suspension tips?

I need the LCA lower by a bit and no amount of prying helps.

I can't break the nuts on some of the LCA pivots even with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. My impact wrench won't budge them. I marked the adjustments with a paint pen, in case I can get them loose.