Suspension Fun

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I had to loosen the LCA pivots to get my stock struts with OE spacers in.. in that case it was clearly what was binding. Gradually got more difficult to move from the bushings winding up. If you cant get them loose you may have to get creative with compressing the strut slightly.

Does it feel like it gradually gets harder to move? That may still be the LCA bushings. If it feels like it just stops all of a sudden you might be running out of CV angle.

BTW make sure you don't let the internals of that inner CV joint come apart.
 
bloc said:
I had to loosen the LCA pivots to get my stock struts with OE spacers in.. in that case it was clearly what was binding. Gradually got more difficult to move from the bushings winding up. If you cant get them loose you may have to get creative with compressing the strut slightly.

Does it feel like it gradually gets harder to move? That may still be the LCA bushings. If it feels like it just stops all of a sudden you might be running out of CV angle.

BTW make sure you don't let the internals of that inner CV joint come apart.
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Trying my best, but may be losing the battle with the cv. Fingers crossed that I didn't hose it yet.

Yes, it gradually gets harder to move, so I think it is the LCA bushing limiting travel, but I can't get that nut forward to break loose! The rear one broke loose with a breaker bar, but the front one is being stubborn. Letting it marinate in kroil for now.
 
When I did mine I figured I'd leave them tight to get the ride-height torqued setting correct.. they are just rubber bushings, how much resistance can they provide?

I'm a tall athletic person and even with a long cheater pipe that arm wasn't going low enough. I now respect those bushings.

If you didn't already know.. make sure you don't torque those nuts back to spec with the suspension dropped out. Needs to be at ride height to avoid putting preload on the bushings under normal riving conditions. Considering the relatively high number, it's pretty difficult to do without a 4-post lift. Even with a long torque wrench I had a lot of trouble doing it under the truck with the front on ramps.
 
Thanks for the reminder. I will make sure that I have the suspension loaded before torquing the fasteners. I have a four post lift (although it is occupied at the moment). I have the cruiser in my two post lift - I've done suspension work on my other cars on the two post, not as convenient to get the suspension weighted, but it can be done.

I am a little over 3/4 done and calling it a day. This has taken a lot longer than anticipated, but fortunately with stay at home orders,I have nothing but time.

The final barrier is the passenger side front. I have the coilover installed at the top, and the remote reservoir mounted, but I can't get enough droop to get the bottom in.

I had disconnected the sway bar, which gave me the droop I needed, but then the swaybar hit the spring, so I couldn't get it into place.

I think my friend the KDSS bolt that I couldn't remove is causing the problem. Without the free movement of fluid, the front swaybar is under tension.

Past experience tells me that I need to stop and call it a day before something bad happens, but tomorrow after work, I think I will try to load the driver side rear, with the hope that the passenger side front is pushed down (hoping I understand the KDSS function properly).

I am so close to having this buttoned up. So close, yet so far. :)
 
Unbolting the sway bar from the frame is an option. Though It also has very tough bushings and you might have to get it buttoned back up at ride height too.
 
Bloc, thanks for the ongoing advice and support. I feel like you're here with me, giving me the tips and nudges I need to power through this. Thanks, man. I appreciate it!
 
CharlieS said:
Thanks for the reminder. I will make sure that I have the suspension loaded before torquing the fasteners. I have a four post lift (although it is occupied at the moment). I have the cruiser in my two post lift - I've done suspension work on my other cars on the two post, not as convenient to get the suspension weighted, but it can be done.

I am a little over 3/4 done and calling it a day. This has taken a lot longer than anticipated, but fortunately with stay at home orders,I have nothing but time.

The final barrier is the passenger side front. I have the coilover installed at the top, and the remote reservoir mounted, but I can't get enough droop to get the bottom in.

I had disconnected the sway bar, which gave me the droop I needed, but then the swaybar hit the spring, so I couldn't get it into place.

I think my friend the KDSS bolt that I couldn't remove is causing the problem. Without the free movement of fluid, the front swaybar is under tension.

Past experience tells me that I need to stop and call it a day before something bad happens, but tomorrow after work, I think I will try to load the driver side rear, with the hope that the passenger side front is pushed down (hoping I understand the KDSS function properly).

I am so close to having this buttoned up. So close, yet so far. :)
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Have you tried loosening (but not fully removing) the sway bar bracket bolts and jacking under the arm on the driver side? That is what the FSM procedure includes and makes it much easier.

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@jbs - thanks, that did the trick.

All four shocks on now, just need to torque everything and I think I'm in business.

Thanks again everyone! IH8Mud has the best people. I wish I could hang out with you all.
 
CharlieS said:
@jbs - thanks, that did the trick.

All four shocks on now, just need to torque everything and I think I'm in business.

Thanks again everyone! IH8Mud has the best people. I wish I could hang out with you all.
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👍
I had the same issue and gave up on it for the night when I was doing my OEM spacer install. Decided I should open up the FSM and have a look the next morning (why I didn't do this first? idk). Sure enough, it worked.
 
I took it out for a 25 mile test drive on some local dirt roads, and the suspension is great.

It really eats up the corrugations, potholes, frost heaves, etc. Just what I was hoping for.

However, I have a massive height difference between the passenger and driver side, which is not cool.

Some quick driveway measurements:
Driver front 37 3/8" Passenger front 35 1/2"
Driver rear 39" Passenger rear 37 3/8"

That is almost exactly 4" of lift compared to pre install measurements on the driver side front and rear. That is a lot more than expected.

I got approximately 1 1/2" of lift in the passenger front and 2" of lift in the passenger rear - which is more like what I was expecting...

Is this the infamous KDSS lean? Could that shutter valve that I couldn't crack loose be haunting me?

PS. Just for the record, I definitely put the taller OME spring on the passenger side.
 
I wasn't paying too much attention, but there is a procedure for leveling that involves jacking up one side and letting it sit overnight or something . . .
 
For the tie rod ends, I've used heat and BFH, etc. Then I broke down and spent the $20 for a proper tool. Works like a charm.

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3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator

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Looks like I need to find a competent auto shop with a TIG weldor that is willing to take this on. Kind of bad timing, pandemic, stay at home and all.

I put the high side up on ramps overnight with the one KDSS shutter valve open and in the morning, closed the valve, lowered the vehicle, and found no measurable change in measured ride height. My driver's side is 2-1/2" taller than the passenger side.

I have an email out to a rally prep shop that I'd had some specialty work done with back when I was racing, and am hoping they can help me. Back then, they had one of the best TIG weldors in the area in their shop. Fingers crossed that (a) he's still there and (b) they're willing to do a job like this.
 
I think you'll definitely have to get that other KDSS valve open to fix your lean. Likely working on it with one side open magnified the issue. I hope your friends at the rally shop can get it!
On a plus side, I bet that Drivers side profile looks like a BEAST! Hahaha
 
It may not be the KDSS lean, double and triple check both rear springs have fully seated into the correct spot at the top. Very easy for one to sit out and you don't notice. If KDSS bleed doesn't fix the lean (i jack left rear up as high as i can). Then wind some more preload in the right front strut, don't ask why but it works. Only the right, not both.
 
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