Any tips for getting a stuck distributor out of the block
Stuck distributor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mike1978fj40
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- 2f distributor
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Does the rotor turn when the motor turns over? If the shaft is frozen in the housing then it won't allow the shaft to rotate and allow the gear to release from the cam. If that is the case then you need to rotate the housing while trying to pull it out. Once the distributor gear clears it should pull straight out.
Can you elaborate on “Stuck”? I assume you removed the hold down bolt. Does the body rotate as it should when adjusting timing? The O-ring may have just bonded to the walls of the hole. You may just have to get manly with it.
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- #5
It works perfectly fine but the shaft won’t budge, I need to remove the distributor so I can take the push rod cover off.
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- #6
I removed the bolt, no the body does not rotate, no movement what so ever
- Thread starter
- #7
There is no rotation, no movement at all
1911
chupacabra
Last resort: drop the oil pan, remove the oil pump, and tap it out from the bottom with a brass drift or similar.
- Thread starter
- #11
Luckily the engine runs great. I’ve been soaking with penetrating oil every couple hours. Shouldn’t it just lift straight out?
I would not think it likely that the shaft would be stuck in the oil pump where it stays coated with oil as does the gear. I think it would be more likely the O-ring is stuck or, above the O-ring where oil doesn’t reach and water could get to, corrosion may have occurred and swelled in there. The fact that the body won’t rotate makes that possibility more likely. Keep soaking and keep trying to rotate. I'd think rotating would come before it pulls out.
I had the same problem, drove 10 plus years with a frozen distributor. At some point I was determined to un-stick it. I unsuccessfully tried all kinds of stuff, including attaching an old distributor cap to a slide puller.
Finally, I broke it loose using the "force over time trick." I attached one end of a ratchet strap to the base of the distributor, the other directly overhead to my garage rafter. Next I added a little tension, soaked it with penetrating oil and then went out of town for a long weekend. When I returned, it popped right out.
Not sure if the strap did the trick by itself or if it was a combination that and a days wrestling with it. Might be worth a try.
Were you able to determine what was holding it in?
GA Architect
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Let me first say, I'd go the penetrating oil over an extended period of time route, post #9 above. If still stuck after the extended period of time, I might try a strap wrench tool like below to try and twist the upper dizzy housing after more penetrating oil. Note, I'd take care as to not damage the dizzy, so I'd be sure and locate the strap below the advancing pot and wouldn't apply a ton of pressure.
I did some research and apparently this is not too terribly uncommon over time for old vehicles with cast iron blocks. Galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals between the block and the distributor.
I did some research and apparently this is not too terribly uncommon over time for old vehicles with cast iron blocks. Galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals between the block and the distributor.
I tried this as well. Even after removing stuff it's still difficult to find room for leverage.
To your point, do take care not to damage the distributor. When I strapped mine to the garage rafter, it was just snug enough to put a little upward tension.
- Thread starter
- #19
I finally go it out today, penetrating oil I used a block of wood and hammer, hit the screw tab for the cap just to get it to move a little, the vise grips on the shaft. It was a tight fit but worked. No obvious signs of rust or anything thing that was holding it
