Stronger Warn 8274 (1 Viewer)

[bjowett]

I need a nice fast electric winch for the wife's ride. It won't be seeing many at the limit hard pulls, so it doesn't need to be a monster. The likely main chore will be deepish snow retrieval while getting to my father in laws cabin, and who knows what else...?

The Warn 8274-50 has been chosen. A Warn 68608 XP Motor, or 70865 Industrial Series 15 Motor, which is stronger than the XP, are the motor choices. Given that the potential exists for the extra load, all parts of the winch will be examined and improved if possible. I realize there are already aftermarket parts, but they are bit pricey, and I'd like to concentrate on what already exists. I suspect gear alignment is an issue. Surface flaws on the gears will also be dealt with, polishing and shot blasting/peening may be employed for many surfaces, along with WPC for the gear faces. The aluminum housing will also receive attention.

Ingredients. Partial list, more to be added.

One Warn 8274, can be new or used, I picked up a new unit.
One Warn 68608 or 70865 motor.

First part, break down the winch. More to come....

 

[1911]

Looks like it will be a very nice build!

FWIW, I used the 68608 XP motor on my old 8274 and I'm very happy with the results.

For reliability, you might consider replacing the four solenoids with a single contactor (I did this also).

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Just did this for my FJ, to step up the high mount.

Used a Bow motor, 9hp, with a 12/24v switch from the 3 batteries, so it steps up about 40% in power, and 1000rpm when the 24v is activated, over the 12v.

Easier than chnaging the gear ratio with aftermarket gears to get the same thing.

Also turned up some alloy rods to run across the back of the drum and end plate so the cable cant jump over, when they are bolted in, and a tack weld on the brake hub circlip, so it cant jump off when the load comes on. [easier than drilling the brake shaft and tapping it, can just grind the tack weld, when it needs to come off.

I also ran a longer rope, so with some rope off, it artificially makes the winch faster, b y having more rope left on the drum, wheeling in more rope per revolution.

This was easier than welding in a new drum centre.

Did some quick fab to fit it in the front bar, cut out the grille, good to go!

 

[crushers]

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[Spook50]

Been wanting to get my hands on an 8274 for a LONG time. Luckily I haven't been in a situation where I've needed a winch yet, but I'd rather have it and not need it than the other way around. I figure I'll end up getting a used one and rebuilding it, so this thread should give me some good ideas to strengthen any weak points it may have, and/or make maintenance easier down the road.

Subscribed

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey, this is some neat stuff! I'm in.

 

[bjowett]

Thanks for the input. I have some nice Curtis Albright Contactors on the shelf... they will be put into service here.

The 24V setup looks nice. Plans are in place to add tabs to the rear, but my bars will be more for adding strength and rigidity to the housings.

Good reading in this link, if you have not yet seen it.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/winching-recovery/197470-my-warn-8274-rebuild-part-1-a.html

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

The cross bars should also be adjusted so the winch will free spool without binding when bolted up to the bar, and keep it square, when under load, to stop it binding then, as well.

Not every bar makes the winch bolt up square, and true.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Just did this for my FJ, to step up the high mount.

Used a Bow motor, 9hp, with a 12/24v switch from the 3 batteries, so it steps up about 40% in power, and 1000rpm when the 24v is activated, over the 12v.

Easier than chnaging the gear ratio with aftermarket gears to get the same thing.

Also turned up some alloy rods to run across the back of the drum and end plate so the cable cant jump over, when they are bolted in, and a tack weld on the brake hub circlip, so it cant jump off when the load comes on. [easier than drilling the brake shaft and tapping it, can just grind the tack weld, when it needs to come off.

I also ran a longer rope, so with some rope off, it artificially makes the winch faster, b y having more rope left on the drum, wheeling in more rope per revolution.

This was easier than welding in a new drum centre.

Did some quick fab to fit it in the front bar, cut out the grille, good to go!

Building one in the near future, my truck is 24volt, so what part number did you use for the motor?

Rob

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

google search the bowmotor in the UK, it comes with adaptor almost ready to bolt on.

 

[bjowett]

Woking on IDing the seals, and adding others.

The main gear box seal is a dash number 235 X-ring. Those are also known as double seal o-rings or quattro rings. So if you only need a main gearbox seal, there it is. I had to buy a bunch, so if anyone needs one, drop me a note, $1 each plus the envelope and postage.

I noticed the bearing on the end support plate has no seal. A dash number 045 X-ring fits the OD of the thrust portion of the bearing perfectly. Will it survive there w/o anything supporting the OD of the seal? If there is enough thrust load, it could get pinched and pulled out... it won't hurt anything if it does.

 

[Oliver]

FWIW - Had my 25 year old 8274 reco'ed recently, with a few upgrades fitted which will prove handy in my case.

1. Crossbars to stabilise the end plates under heavy load
2. A second seal groove cut in the main shaft and two oil seals fitted
3. A drain and fill plug fitted so I don't have to pull the winch to drain
4. All sealed up and a breather line fitted to prevent condensation build up
5. End circlip replaced with a bolt to avoid a dummy spit
6. R clip fitted to the release handle

A few pics attached.

Cheers

 

[matt 105]

How good does that big motor look.

 

[Spook50]

FWIW - Had my 25 year old 8274 reco'ed recently, with a few upgrades fitted which will prove handy in my case.

1. Crossbars to stabilise the end plates under heavy load
2. A second seal groove cut in the main shaft and two oil seals fitted
3. A drain and fill plug fitted so I don't have to pull the winch to drain
4. All sealed up and a breather line fitted to prevent condensation build up
5. End circlip replaced with a bolt to avoid a dummy spit
6. R clip fitted to the release handle

A few pics attached.

Cheers

Do you have any pics of the main shaft with the second groove cut? I assume you just had an identical groove cut so you could use the same P/N seal?

Great idea on the breather line. Do you just have it terminating in the engine compartment to reduce the likelihood of moisture getting in?

I'm saving your post so I have a must-do list for when I'm able to get a rebuildable 8274

 

[blueBJ70]

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[AutoCraft Aus]

Looks like a Mal Leslie mod, the way the details are engraved on the side .

Flamin Fab do some trick bits for them too, twin motors, the Gigglepin hellfire gears, the air operated clutch, and the billet alloy ends which are machined with seals, for better support, and the longer drum, for more cable.


This one would go alright with some 40% gears!

 

[Oliver]

I'm mindful that this bjowett's thread

Spooks50 ... seal groove cut next to the original. Piped into the diff breathers on the firewall

Got it right in one, Autocraft Aus. That Gigglepin setup would extract you quicker than a snatch strap!!

Cheers

 

[kcustom73]

Subscribed. Need to rebuild my 8274 over the winter so this is great info.

 

[TigBits]

I'm building mine tomorrow



Can someone post a pic of the end with tacked circlip or tapped out end with bolt
Cheers

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Tack the gap of the circlip together is the easy solution, can die grind it or small disc grind it off later if you ever need to.

Drilling and tapping is a bit trickier, needing to sharpen a masonry bit to be able to drill the hardened shaft.