Never wanted to remove it but I'd plug it w rubber before welding...just in case you or another owner might want it back for some reason.
STLCA 60 Series Club Thread
- Thread starter Elbert
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- Thread starter
- #102
was wondering if anyone had found a specific part that works....car body type "plug"... I'm going to tryout the conversion seat bracket torfab makes to use a BMW 3 series front seat...he relates that the rear heater has to come out. I pulled my carpet out a long time ago so I'm halfway there.. I agree that I probably should not weld it...just don't want a water fountain on the next river/creek crossing.
what size diameter are the holes? This might work for 1/2" or bigger. Otherwise, i'd just use a tapered plug with lip, or just fill it with caulking.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#expansion-test-plugs/=w2dgx0
http://www.mcmaster.com/#expansion-test-plugs/=w2dgx0
- Thread starter
- #104
I don't know yet ...but I got a lead on some parts here..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/86-fj60-rear-heater-removal.841457/
I've been exploring the snow today....toyo mt tires worked great in all the snow crap today.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/86-fj60-rear-heater-removal.841457/
I've been exploring the snow today....toyo mt tires worked great in all the snow crap today.
- Thread starter
- #105
I think those wing nut expansion "things" might be good too...I may get a couple of those...as they look like once they are installed they are good for life.
any help would be greatly appreciated! i'm wondering how a stock 40 is done? should be very similar i would guess?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/complete-2f-desmog.841540/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/complete-2f-desmog.841540/
- Thread starter
- #107
I don't have any magic ideas on the desmog, but all the threads on the main board point to having the carb rebuilt and setup for that plus recuving the distributor, then removing the smog pump, the air rail and about a mile of vacuum hose and various other components, leaving the altitude compensator in the mix. Of course the magic is in the details.
I hate the smog setup on the OE 2F's...when I had mine that was my goal to get all that crap off the engine...all I wanted to see was the carb and distributor...but then the v8 madness struck...and I lost interest in following up on the details.
I think some people are running a "non-smog" carb from troll-hole... I think thats his nickname...
I hate the smog setup on the OE 2F's...when I had mine that was my goal to get all that crap off the engine...all I wanted to see was the carb and distributor...but then the v8 madness struck...and I lost interest in following up on the details.
I think some people are running a "non-smog" carb from troll-hole... I think thats his nickname...
Cleaned carb w hopes to fix my prob. 2 cans of carb cleaner. Stay tuned.
Sean ,
I had the same problem with my 40 . I tried what I thought was everything sometimes it would run good other times it was a freakin night mare . So I finally broke down and bought a Trollhole carb best money I ever spent on the 40 . I don't know why or how but I swear all I did was bolt it on and never had a minutes problem . The 40 would idle pull (crawl) up trails and never flood . I did install a hand throttle control on the shifter just for a little more control , but never had to touch the carb . That's my two cents worth .
Trollhole Cruisers....864-414-0563
He was also working on putting a TBI kit together for the 2F's . Not sure if that ever came to be was a couple of years ago .
I had the same problem with my 40 . I tried what I thought was everything sometimes it would run good other times it was a freakin night mare . So I finally broke down and bought a Trollhole carb best money I ever spent on the 40 . I don't know why or how but I swear all I did was bolt it on and never had a minutes problem . The 40 would idle pull (crawl) up trails and never flood . I did install a hand throttle control on the shifter just for a little more control , but never had to touch the carb . That's my two cents worth .
Trollhole Cruisers....864-414-0563
He was also working on putting a TBI kit together for the 2F's . Not sure if that ever came to be was a couple of years ago .
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There was some talk at the meeting about the cheaper ones on e- bay. Turns out there are several companies in China making Toyota carbs and some have real issues, Marshall stands behind his.
Sean,
Have you considered sending your carb to Jim Chenoweth for rebuilding? Jim and Mark (of Mark's Off Road) gave a tech talk carbs at Coal Miner two years ago. They are very experienced doing this and have strong reputations with their customers for their rebuilds & carb adjustments. With the right expertise, it make sense to rebuild a carb so it is ready for another 30 years.
Just a thought and another option (which luckily we have these days). Good luck
Have you considered sending your carb to Jim Chenoweth for rebuilding? Jim and Mark (of Mark's Off Road) gave a tech talk carbs at Coal Miner two years ago. They are very experienced doing this and have strong reputations with their customers for their rebuilds & carb adjustments. With the right expertise, it make sense to rebuild a carb so it is ready for another 30 years.
Just a thought and another option (which luckily we have these days). Good luck
Thx guys for the support. Slapped my cleaned carb on today for another test. Made sure all the gas was drained out first. Again, same issue, carb will fill up 1/2 way w gas, sputter but never start. Slight spray of starting fluid & it fires right up.
JimC rebuilt my carb 10 years ago. I talked w him over email & he said 10 years is roughly the life he expects from a rebuild.
At this point I'm not sure my best route. Troll hole carb @ $250 or JimC @ $300. I can always sell my current carb if I buy troll holes & the overall amount spent might be even less than $200. Not sure what a POS OEM carb goes for?
Do you guys know if Marshall can diagnose vacuum lines? I know JimC is the master, I've been chatting w him a bit. I just need to be 100% for sure my setup is correct.
JimC rebuilt my carb 10 years ago. I talked w him over email & he said 10 years is roughly the life he expects from a rebuild.
At this point I'm not sure my best route. Troll hole carb @ $250 or JimC @ $300. I can always sell my current carb if I buy troll holes & the overall amount spent might be even less than $200. Not sure what a POS OEM carb goes for?
Do you guys know if Marshall can diagnose vacuum lines? I know JimC is the master, I've been chatting w him a bit. I just need to be 100% for sure my setup is correct.
Did it run correctly before the desmog?
If you need a rebuild, I'd send it to JimC, even though it cost more and takes longer. His sh!t runs right. If you sell it, I'm sure you could get $100 or so.
Does it keep running once you get it started?
If you need a rebuild, I'd send it to JimC, even though it cost more and takes longer. His sh!t runs right. If you sell it, I'm sure you could get $100 or so.
Does it keep running once you get it started?
I remember I had to ground the fuel cut solenoid wire, whatever that was. I had the opposite problem than you, though. It started fine and ran good until 1800 rpms, when the idle circuit would cut out.
Maybe look into that?
Maybe look into that?
Thx Cam, ran before the desmog but started poorly.
Update for today. Tried to start again, pushed down on accelerator pump & no fuel squirted into intake, only made a hissing sound. I assume that's the AP compressing air? Also, this time noticed fuel sight glass only 1/3rd full, leaking out butterfly valve shaft. Has lots of play in it. Is there a way to check adequate pressure from fuel pump?
Update for today. Tried to start again, pushed down on accelerator pump & no fuel squirted into intake, only made a hissing sound. I assume that's the AP compressing air? Also, this time noticed fuel sight glass only 1/3rd full, leaking out butterfly valve shaft. Has lots of play in it. Is there a way to check adequate pressure from fuel pump?
Disconnect fuel line run into jug, crank motor if you have flow you should be good, carbs only need a couple of psi as long as there is adequate flow to run engine.
Thanks Roger, looks like plenty of gas pumped into my cup after 3 sec of cranking. Would you say I'm good?
Ok, dumb question, but are you following the secret starting ritual?
Full choke, two or three long pumps of the pedal (or even more if really cold), foot off pedal, turn the key?
I know on mine, if you followed the ritual (its actually in the owner's manual somewhere), it would start instantly. If you didn't, you would never get it started.
Full choke, two or three long pumps of the pedal (or even more if really cold), foot off pedal, turn the key?
I know on mine, if you followed the ritual (its actually in the owner's manual somewhere), it would start instantly. If you didn't, you would never get it started.
Ha, never done it exactly that way but worth a shot. Thanks!
If it works, you owe me $300
