Complete 2F desmog

[sk8salomon]

I've searched and read thru many threads but haven't seen any DIY info on this topic.
I've removed virtually all smog, running 6-1 header, saginaw steering pump (no smog pump), no OEM air cleaner, no EGR, no BVSV, no HIC, no HAI, no HAC, no VSV.

Only using (2) VCV's, fuel cut sol. & EVAP system.

Been following the famous "how to demsog an fj60" manual. Here's what I have.

From dizzy
-one vent port to VCV port(Z)
-2nd vent port to firewall
-vacuum advance port to advancer port on carb
-plugged HAC advancer port

From carb
-plug port a & c
-port b to choke breather
-fuel cut port to sol.
-where does choke opener line go?

VCV (evap driver's)
-plug line x
-line y to carb insulator
-line z to EVAP can
-plug line s

VCV (dizzy vent)
-line x to T with z
-plug line y
-line z to dizzy cap
-line s to manifold gas filter

Truck will fire up with starter fluid but then dies. Won't start on own. Any ideas?

 

[sk8salomon]

Still having issues. Sight glass in carb has fuel roughly 1/2 full. Can somebody tell me if my choke opener needs vacuum even tho I have a cable choke? If so, where's best place to pull the vacuum from? Dizzy line?

 

[klinetime574]

Glad this thread is still up on the first page so I saw it when I got home.

You need to connect the choke opener to a source just like how I have mine connected in THIS post. The last picture I believe has it in view.

I have cable choke (stock) so I think you should connect it. I think the source just needs to be a pre-manifold one. Meaning that if it was unplugged you wouldn't be sucking air directly into the intake. Hopefully that makes sense

Can we see some pics of your set-up? Curious to see your air intake.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

The choke opener needs a vacuum source, but I don't think that should keep it from running - I could be wrong. Pretty sure that all the choke opener does is crack the choke once the motor has started up. Did it run before the desmog? Will it stay running if you keep giving it starter fluid?

-Double check to make sure your fuel cut solenoid is working - it should make an audible click when you turn the key "on".
-Double (triple?) check to make sure you haven't left any enormous vacuum leaks hanging open.
- Did you mess with the distributor at all? Make sure all your wires are tight, though it sounds more like a fuel/air issue.
- Assuming it's cold in TN, is your choke plate closing all the way when you initially try to start?

 

[sk8salomon]

Thx guys for the help. I'm leaning towards fuel cut solenoid. I can't listen to it & turn key at same time. Is there another way I can test it electronically? Here's the diagram showing + wire from Outer Vent Control Valve. I'm confused because my fuel cut only has one wire going to it. Should it always have 12v? Can I bypass it?

 

[sk8salomon]

My bad, I didn't mean 1 wire to FCSol, with key on I have 12v. Now what?

 

[sk8salomon]

Here's my new setup. Went back & rechecked...will do one more time

 

[sk8salomon]

One more thing & I'm done for now. I'm not running a cat so I just did what the desmogging manual told me & cut the sensor wires off at the floor. Is the thermo sensor NO or NC type circuit?

 

[sk8salomon]

I have not touched the dizzy, idle air mix screw or ignition system. It starts just fine w gas in carb or starting fluid. Choke plate is closing properly too. I'm at a loss!?!?!

 

[Slow Left]

Does it hold an idle?

You mention that it will start. If it starts but doesn't hold an idle, can you keep it running by giving it gas with the throttle?

Is it a stock Aisin carb? Has the carb been rebuilt?

 

[Slow Left]

Still having issues. Sight glass in carb has fuel roughly 1/2 full. Can somebody tell me if my choke opener needs vacuum even tho I have a cable choke? If so, where's best place to pull the vacuum from? Dizzy line?

On the stock vac circuit, the Choke Opener pulls vac from the Gas Filter by way of a BVSV 2 (see schematic below). The Gas Filters sits on top of the intake manifold towards the front; it has 3 hose fittings on it - in your picture in post #7 you have a single hose looping to 2 of the 3 hose fittings on the Gas Filter...
But notice in the schematic below that on the CO side of BVSV 2, the vac line splits...one line from the T leads to the CO...the other leads to the Air Filter, but there is a orifice restrictor inline between the T and the connection at the Air Filter. see:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/are-these-symbols-for-a-check-valve.827721/#post-9505721

NOTE: disregard the red arrows in the schematic. I grabbed the picture from another post where there were used to point out something else...just too lazy to edit...

 

[sk8salomon]

Well I figured out my prob! I had the wrong damn port off the dizzy hooked up, I had plugged the main vac line instead of the HAC line! DOH

 

[lovetoski]

glad you got it running. In most cases for me, if something isn't working, i triple check my recent work and that's where the fix will come from...

 

[sk8salomon]

glad you got it running. In most cases for me, if something isn't working, i triple check my recent work and that's where the fix will come from...

Thanks, still not running great but at least starts. Next I will check timing

 

[Slow Left]

If the engine starts but won't hold an idle, then I'd suspect fuel starvation (either a significant vac leak or poor fuel delivery - fuel pump, needle valve/float assembly).

If there is gas 1/2 way up in the carb fuel bowl, then it probably isn't a fuel pump or needle valve/float assembly problem...but could still be a clogged carb circuit.

For ignition system trouble shooting, if you start with checking for spark at each of the plugs, then work your way back if you find no spark at one or more.

Also, there are a couple of electrical circuit items you could rule out. Some of the usual suspects: fusible links, fuses (Engine, Gauge...), relays.

 

[hank14]

You might have already figured this out, but to test the fuel cut solenoid, turn the key to the on position and unplug it and plug it back in. You should be able to hear it click without the engine running. If the engine is running, unplug it and the engine should stall and die.

 

[cspangler]

Good write up and pics. This helps with my troubleshooting.

 

[Landpimp]

Idle control selnoid. It's correct to have power to it, but where is fails is the ground, it grounds in the emmison computer and the solders fail.

Take the ground side of ICS connection and ground to carb body.