Hey all, at it again, Trying to eliminate some steering play back and forth. When the car is running there’s about and inch each way back and forth in the steering wheel before the tires grab and start moving. I’ve replaced the rack bushings, I lifted each wheel and checked for play in tie rods, no movement in the wheels. Outer tie rods have been replaced, inners have not. But when I rock the tires at 9 and 3 there is no play. So I’m looking at possible issues with the steering shaft itself. The upper shaft out of the steering wheel moves exactly with the wheel itself. I’m wondering if the u joint at the rack is bad? Is there any thought on this? How does that shaft go into the rack? It looks like there’s a collar toward the firewall with 2 bolts, does that shaft just pull out of the rack? Or is there more to it? It’s super tight in there so trying to grab the shaft and move it around for play is quite tough. Any thoughts on this? The steering wheel wander drives me crazy
Steering shaft play?
- Thread starter LC CT
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It's not the steering shaft
- Thread starter
- #3
Think the rack itself? Would it eventually get play inside it with wear? 230k on it
Could be wheel bearings, could be ball joints, could be rear control arms, could be the rack
- Thread starter
- #5
Wheel bearings and ball joints were both replaced and this was an issue prior, no play in the wheel bearings and when the car is parked, you can move the steering wheel back and forth and the wheels don’t respond for an inch or so each direction, in the gap of movement the tie rods aren’t moving either so I would think that wouldn’t be a wheel bearing issue? It looks like the lack of movement comes from between the shaft and the rack output, if that makes sense. Rack boot is moist, the top of the steering shaft responds with the steering wheel turning. I feel like it’s rack or that Lower ujoint on the shaft?
Rack then
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
WAIT a second, it isn't caused by nightview?!
- Thread starter
- #8
Now you might be on to something, going to drive around tonight in the dark with only looking at nightview and when I hit a tree at 40 I bet the wobble will be gone
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
You'll be a hero to @nukegoat
Lol now you're talking
It could be, after replacing literally everything else, it was my steering shaft/s.
How To: Replace your Upper Steering Column Shaft
Rake is good, this issue started after I fixed the slop by replacing the upper steering shaft. Thanks for the ideas though. It's driving me nuts and would do anything to fix it. lol If you end up throwing random parts at it and anything works, please let us know. Just got back from a week of...
forum.ih8mud.com
Mine had a considerable amount of play in it. I purchased new bushings for it but realized someone had already tried that at some point as it already had poly bushings it it. It ended up being the rack. Had tons of internal play. Mine has 440k on it. Don't know if it had already been replaced once though. I'm assuming so. You don't normally get play in the shaft itself. As long as the shaft bolts are tight. It could be the u-joint on the shaft but I doubt it. Mine was still good with 440k on it. Replaced it with a toyota remanned unit. All is good now.
It could be, after replacing literally everything else, it was my steering shaft/s.
How To: Replace your Upper Steering Column Shaft
Rake is good, this issue started after I fixed the slop by replacing the upper steering shaft. Thanks for the ideas though. It's driving me nuts and would do anything to fix it. lol If you end up throwing random parts at it and anything works, please let us know. Just got back from a week of...
I had already ruled out rack since it was brand new OEM. Rack bushing was new as well. In spite of all the naysayers, the U joint on my lower steering shaft was total garbage and replacing it seems to have finally solved it.
How did you access the bolt on the ujoint side of the lower shaft?
Lower Intermediate (IM #2) shaft U-joint bolt at pinion. I find access from below easiest. Just turn steering wheel, so bolt head points down or to side. Down when using 6pt. socket with long extensions. To the side, when using a 6 pt. box wrench or socket without extension.
Removing the #2 IM shaft. Accesses upper u-joint bolts. From above and or wheel-well.
Removing the #2 IM shaft. Accesses upper u-joint bolts. From above and or wheel-well.
for some reason I thought the steering wheel had to be straight for the install, but I’ll give this a try
I sprayed WD40 silicone lube on it for now lol
I have the same symptoms. I've replaced everything else mentioned here so the steering shaft is next. Feels real loosey goosey turning, been that way since day 1 when I purchased the 100.
This thread is not about R&P replament.
Installing R&P. Yes best if steering wheel straight. Keep track of how much and direction of turn. Turn back for assembling, in opposite direction. Do not turn more than 180 degrees, form dead-on. When R&P pulled off shaft. Or you may bust the clock spring.
You will be abl to remove bolt and turn steering wheel. IM shaft is still connected, until pull off pinon gear.