Steering Problems with high steer

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Any Time I use those joints I drill the shaft so that the set screw is in the drill hole that way it can't slip
Some racing organizations require. A bolt through the shaft and joint
 
It was the box. Steering box was new from George at Valley Hybrids, but two weeks late I hit a pothole (not a very big one), at about 20 miles an hour while turning a corner in my neighborhood, and apparently bent shafts in the box. I have a more heavy duty Cardone in there now.
That said, my leaf springs are worn and one is shifting a leaf slightly out when I turn. I have a SOA lift, and i don't want the added height of brand new arced springs. Do I need to get custom ones made at the spring shop or does anyone sell the flatter springs that I need?
 
If leafs are shifting when turning 2 things come to mind. 1 your ubolts may be loosening up. 2 the spring clamps have opened up. To fix spring clamps first get the leaf pack straight then clamp it down with some c clamp vise grips. Next use a oxygen/acetylene torch and heat the clamp red hot where the 90 degree bends are, try not to get the actual leafs hot. Do one bend at a time heating it red hot and use a decent sized flat head screwdriver to open up the clamps, and a hammer to close them. Typically I find it easier to start off by opening all clamps into a "u" shape. Then get the sides so they hug the pack on the sides nice and tight. Once the u shape is nice and tight on the sides of the pack, it's time to close it up. I don't like to close it as tight as the factory. I usually install a 1/4 plate on top, close the clamp up, and slide the plate out.
 
White Stripe said:
If leafs are shifting when turning 2 things come to mind. 1 your ubolts may be loosening up. 2 the spring clamps have opened up. To fix spring clamps first get the leaf pack straight then clamp it down with some c clamp vise grips. Next use a oxygen/acetylene torch and heat the clamp red hot where the 90 degree bends are, try not to get the actual leafs hot. Do one bend at a time heating it red hot and use a decent sized flat head screwdriver to open up the clamps, and a hammer to close them. Typically I find it easier to start off by opening all clamps into a "u" shape. Then get the sides so they hug the pack on the sides nice and tight. Once the u shape is nice and tight on the sides of the pack, it's time to close it up. I don't like to close it as tight as the factory. I usually install a 1/4 plate on top, close the clamp up, and slide the plate out.
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Well, the spring clamps have definitely opened up. Are you saying i should just close them and not get new springs? The Ubolts are fine.
 
I put new bushings and shackles in the front. I was going to do it in the rear and it snowed, but I have them at my house. New ubolts too. I need new, beefier plates to anchor them-the old ones are bent. The old leaf springs are probably the originals from 1978. Would I not really get a benefit by replacing them?
 
DeadguyLLC said:
I put new bushings and shackles in the front. I was going to do it in the rear and it snowed, but I have them at my house. New ubolts too. I need new, beefier plates to anchor them-the old ones are bent. The old leaf springs are probably the originals from 1978. Would I not really get a benefit by replacing them?
Click to expand...
Typically well broken in leaf packs are desired for soa rigs. If your springs aren't beyond flat and have no cracks in any of the leafs they should be fine. If u get new springs, likely u will have to remove some leafs to bring down the ride height.
 
Not a very big pot hole you say
So does that mean you need low range for a big pot hole lol
Seriously though a pot hole shouldn't damage a steering box
Should check and make sure that your pitman arm or drag link isn't contacting the spring under compression During a turn
It is possible you just got a bad box to begin with
Not bashing the company you bought it from
It happens to everyone sooner or later
Good you got it figured out though
X2 on a spring over flat worn in springs work best
 
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