Starting FJ60 thats been sitting issues.

[Noneya Bitness]

Let me know if you're still on the market for this. I have a carb/manifolds that I pulled offa good running engine in 2012

I got a set from @ceylonfj40nut that I haven't taken to the shop yet. If it checks out ok, I should be set. If not, I'll certainly give you a shout! Thank you for reaching out.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

We got it! Machined manifolds and it fired right up,we De-smogged the engine too. All thats left is the usual steps. Warm valve adjustment, proper timing adjustment, and then re-tuneing the carb.

 

[Cincodemustache]

Congrats! Where did you end up getting them machined?

 

[Gretsch]

Nice work Chase. Glad you got it sorted.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

@Noneya Bitness can answer that, he worked with the machinist

 

[Noneya Bitness]

Congrats! Wh
ere did you end up getting them machined?

Took it to Bill Spence Engines in Sherman, TX. He's got the table top belt sander. Replaced the rings and springs I got from you. Then he loosened the bolts between the intake and exhaust. Pressed everything flat on the table top and then tightened the bolts back. Spot welded the exhaust ends in place. Then ran the sander until everything was flat. He happened to have a moment, so he was kind enough to do it while I waited.

I didn't know if we needed to remove the spot welds on the ends, so we just left them welded. But when we tried to install the assembly on the vehicle, the ends were pushed in too far and wouldn't clear the studs in the head. So we cut the spot welds and then installed. I would definitely recommend cutting the spot welds at the machine shop after surfacing is complete.

After this, I took it home and we disassembled the intake and exhaust from each other to put in the block off plate and new gaskets. We "locked" the exhaust flap in the "hot" position when we put in the block off plate. Side note, we made a video demonstrating how that flap works - we should post that if it's not out there already. At this point, we hand-tightened the bolts between the intake and exhaust. We put the assembly against the head and snugged up the flanges against the head first, then snugged up the bolts between the intake and exhaust. That way the flange surfaces were flat against the head first. Then we iteratively tightened everything (nuts to head as well as intake/exhaust bolts) down to their respective torque values.

The truck started right up after assembly, so the cracked manifold was most likely the source of the problem - couldn't pull a vacuum (vacuum gauge swinging erratically back and forth between 0 and 5 psi), wouldn't idle smoothly, wouldn't idle at all without working the gas pedal or pulling out the choke. We did the desmog (with JimC - TLC Performance kit) at the same time when we put everything back together, so we did change two major variables in this process, but I suspect the cracked intake was the culprit.

keywords:
machine shop machining surface surfacing intake exhaust manifold manifolds
machine shop in near dallas dfw texas tx

 

[Noneya Bitness]

@ChaserFJ60 and I produced a little video demonstrating the exhaust manifold heat riser valve function.



I also posted it in the FAQ sticky for Intake and Exhaust - "Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?"
Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

 

[ChaserFJ60]

To whom it may concern, to tune the carburetor we wanted to get the most precise readings possible with the lowest budget possible. I found hall effect sensors online for 50 cents each and made a diy tachometer that will give us a digital RPM count using an arduino.
anyway heres a video walk through and it being used in two different videos. information to do this yourself is in the descriptions of both videos. @Noneya Bitness @Robert Franzke

 

[Gretsch]

Awesome stuff Chase. Nice job here.

 

[Noneya Bitness]

That was a really cool experience, Chase! You are an artist. An ARTEEEEST!!!