Starter on Sale

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

OregonLC

OregonLC

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Threads
155
Messages
6,189
Location
N43.875, W121.455
Website
www.instagram.com
Been planning to proactively replace my starter this winter. OE had been running ~$340 online. Found them at Boch tonight for $166.55 (68% off). And I believe this is the current part number... 28100-0S050.

I picked it up along with another $800 of maintenance items (water pump, belt, tentioner, t-stat, O2 sensors, exhaust gaskets & hardware, etc.). Rad was already replaced, but didn't have time to do the other front-end stuff that I should have when it let go last summer. At 135k I don't feel bad with these PMs... unless something breaks it should hold me until 200k.

Oh, one other PM that I need is lower ball joints. They're leaking from the boots. Is the smart money on just replacing the whole LCA (and thereby getting new bushings too) or are you money ahead to push out the joints and bushings. If the latter, I don't see a PN for the ball joint but I do for the bushings.
 
Last edited:
This part will probably be on the 100k plus mile maintenance list years from now . Just purchased one of these for my old 14 LX. Many thanks and good find.!!!
 
i hadn't read through the starter thread in detail, but I thought somebody mentioned that there was an updated part (smaller?) that was easier to install. Any idea if this is the updated part? The deal looks great
 
DPA200 said:
i hadn't read through the starter thread in detail, but I thought somebody mentioned that there was an updated part (smaller?) that was easier to install. Any idea if this is the updated part? The deal looks great
Click to expand...

I looked at a Toyota Parts site I tend to use and they showed the part posted by @OregonLC as the updated part. BTW, it was $175 where I looked so this is a good deal.
 
Serpatine belt is also on sale. for $44.14. List price is $120.39. It seems like that Toyota is discounting a few parts. I wonder if these parts are being replaced by revised model number.

90916-A2033
 
Cool. Done. I need a belt too.
 
i think we also need a Part # 28192-0S020 , starter cover. I am not a trained mechanic but read one of the posts that the starter cover gets damaged since starter is difficult to access.
 
I think it gets damaged if you pry it out of the way because you didn't remove the solenoid first before trying to snake it out?
 
My down pipe WOULD NOT come out without removing the manifold. Something about my truck wouldn’t let the pipe clear the long studs on the manifold, even if the rear of the downpipe was unbolted. Would have required removal of the transmission crossmember.

Also those heat shield bolts are unbelievably difficult to get to with the manifold in the way. This is why some people leave one of them out at the end. Hello rattles and more stress on the remaining mounting bolt holes in the shield.

You’ll also likely mangle the manifold heat shield.

TLDR version: leaving the manifold in is not the right way to do this job. Buy the gaskets and do it right.
 
Thanks for the heads up. Do you per chance have parts numbers for manifold heat shield? And gasket part number?
 
FWIW, this is the entire parts list I bought. Shows the gasket part numbers. Obviously, doing way more than a starter. Prices were not updated with the actual order.

Another thread showing parts list is here.

Starter.jpg
 
Thanks OregonLC, by the way, I believe the thermostat gasket is included in the thermostat unit. Also, I replaced my idler pulley while having tensioner, water pump, radiator, thermostat replaced. No extra labor time.
 
To be clear the heat shield will probably only get mangled if you try to leave the manifold in place. If manifold is removed it should be fine. I’d have spare heat shield bolts on hand though.. the heat makes them rust easily and they are cheap.
 
32cls6speedmt said:
Thanks OregonLC, by the way, I believe the thermostat gasket is included in the thermostat unit. Also, I replaced my idler pulley while having tensioner, water pump, radiator, thermostat replaced. No extra labor time.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll add the idler to the list.
 
Question is - buy all that now and let it sit on the shelf or wait until it is needed. Mine has about 95k on it and I drive around 10k per year
 
tominboise said:
Question is - buy all that now and let it sit on the shelf or wait until it is needed. Mine has about 95k on it and I drive around 10k per year
Click to expand...

It can go out anywhere between 100-150k+

I am sitting at 152k and this sale pushed me over the edge to order the starter. It will be sitting in my garage until the original starter dies during daily driving or it will be replaced before the next big trip with the 200.
 
Changing the starter preemptively is a good idea. Mine left me stranded in town. Fortunately, AAA took it to my house with no charge and I replaced the started in my driveway in about 5 hours. Was a b*tch to change but I did it without removing UCA or shock. I found some video of a guy changing it on a Sequoia that was detailed enough to help me through it. FWIW, the starter was fine. Bench tested it after I got it out. Solenoid crapped out. Absolutely no warning.
 
It is usually the solenoid. Toyota’s have been doing that for decades, unfortunately.

Thats why I just put a new solenoid on mine. If this sale had been around when I did the work I would have done the whole thing.

And for those that don’t know.. it is possible to get the truck started if the solenoid fails, but it requires two people, jumper cables, and a very long Phillips screwdriver and electrical tape. Most people can scrounge up everything besides that screwdriver if necessary. Just makes me think I should throw one in the tool bag for LCDC.
 
I'm going to stock up on the parts to replace the starter and keep them in my truck.....lol. The time bomb is ticking.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom