Started my rebuilt motor, some concerns…

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BenjaminCA

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Gang I just got my 1994 FZJ80 started up for the first time. This is a cruiser I purchased with a “rebuilt” engine, but I haven’t gotten it to run until today. At the end of my video, there’s some seepage from the freeze plugs… Watch the whole startup, or skip to the end to see the leak is. Am I screwed?

 
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Clean that area off well, add a dye into the cooling system, run the engine or pressurize the cooling system and watch where the dye appears and hope the block isn't cracked at ~ the 6 O'clock position of the freeze plug hole boss. And/or drain the coolant from the block, remove the freeze plugs in question, clean off the boss and block around and below the freeze plugs then use a penetrating dye kit, inspect for cracks.







A couple of prior discussions with lots of photos:

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If cracking is suspected dye pen is great but fa quick and dirty home magnaflux will tell ya what you want to know.

What you need is 2 pretty powerful magnets. Anything over 50-60 pound of force should be fine, (hobo freight, hardware store for a couple bucks to maybe 20 for the pair) something ferrous to connect them together, and some grinding dust off your shop floor. A decent sized horseshoe magnet from Amazon is like 50 bucks that would be better but we are trying be cheap and easy to sources and a little bit sketchy here.

Clean the area as well as you can with a hand brush, you don’t have to get it shiny bright and new looking, just most of the crusty off and down to bare metal, clean well with solvent if you have oil and coolant on there

Place one magnet with the North Pole sticking. The engine block just below the freeze plug in question so your getting the bottom edge of the plug boss in between the magnets. Then place the other with the South Pole against the test part on the other side of where you suspect the flaw to be. Connect the exposed poles with a chunk of scrap steel. The magnets should only have 2-3 inches of space between them. Be careful as magnets wan to sick together more than to stuff so I would keep a small block of something between them to hold your spacing and keep your fingers from getting pinched.

Now take all the grinder dust you swept up off the floor and sprinkle it on the part between the magnets. If there is magnetic flux leakage from a flaw the ferrous metallics in the dust will stick where that flux leakage is creating a new temporary magnetic pole on the block. It’s not perfect and there is tons of field leakage with scrap steel but it should have enough field strength between the poles on the part to at least give you an idea if there is a crack there you can’t see with just a visual inspection.

I have never tried it this way as I have big old horseshoe magnet my grandpa gave that works pretty good, so your mileage may vary and may be a useless endeavor.
 
Edit: more technical video showing use of stitch pins:



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Interesting approach (attempt) to weld a crack cast iron block that is not supposed to work (if it did):

 
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Gang I just got my 1994 FZJ80 started up for the first time. This is a cruiser I purchased with a “rebuilt” engine, but I haven’t gotten it to run until today. At the end of my video, there’s some seepage from the freeze plugs… am I screwed? Watch the whole startup, or skip to the end to see the leak is. Am I screwed?


This video is exactly why we don’t let the neurodivergent buy trains or airplanes…. Unless they’re rich as fuuuuuuhhh.
 
Clean that area off well, add a dye into the cooling system, run the engine or pressurize the cooling system and watch where the dye appears and hope the block isn't cracked at ~ the 6 O'clock position of the freeze plug hole boss. And/or drain the coolant from the block, remove the freeze plugs in question, clean off the boss and block around and below the freeze plugs then use a penetrating dye kit, inspect for cracks.

Solid feedback man. I usually jump straight to the worst case scenario, but I’ve been poking around the freeze plugs, (the two seeping) and it appears to be install error. Again, I bought the 80 with a “fresh” rebuilt engine, and this is the first time putting any liquids in it.

Those two plugs have a definite lip I can feel on the bottom compared to a recessed edge on the top. I’ve never installed these but I imagine it should be flush. Looking like an uneven seating. It’s improved some from initial startup and seeping less, I’m hoping the issue is a half assed install instead of the block being cracked.
 
These are the three I can clearly get a photo of. Apparently the “rebuilder” was not concerned about the plugs being flushed. From what I can tell, all three are inserted past the block edge on the top, and the bottom has a protruding lip from the block edge. The weeping coolant is barely noticeable, but it drips (after running the 80 for 30 mins). If I tap the bottom in, making it flush with the top, am I going to make it worse?

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