Builds Spyduh's Crawler80 Build (2 Viewers)

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@GW Nugget

Reread Broskis thread again to refresh my memory. That was one of my inspirations to keep my rig low COG on a lower lift. But after talking with Dobinsons. They convinced me that the 6inch would be better suited for my build then the flexi 4s. I think I want light weight build. But knowing me. I pack my rig with every imaginable spare part and 50lbs of tools and impacts. Thata just how I am and like to be able to repair any breakage on the trail.

I estimate I'm at least 600lbs extra from stock in the rear and 200lbs in the front.

My white turbo80 weighs in at 7200lbs. Not fully loaded either. I estimate the turbo80 comes in at 8k fully loaded.

So with any indications of knowing myself. I figure my lighter weight crawler 80 will come in at 7k fully loaded. The 4 flexis won't do much good with that weight.

I plan on staying 37s and the 6inch lift does make it more tippy but I'll deal with it and crawl slower. The 6inch lift in my mind was to give me more belly clearance.

Heres a pic of the diff between old rig vs new. It's alot lower and I'm worried of getting hung up at Fordyce.

Going from dual case r150 5spd 5.29 to the 80 auto 3.11 Low range and 5.29s. Haven't wheeled the 80 yet and still don't have the 5.29s installed. I heard crawling an auto is easier but ive never tried yet and I know dual case 5speed and did the Con and Fordyce with ease.

Maybe in over thinking things. I know mini crawlers but don't know 80s enough to build the perfect crawler.

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One thing to note the length of both my bobbed crawler and the 80 crawler is about the same. Had more wheelbase on my bobbed mini though. If I remember it was close to 13inch more wheelbase. The width and height on the other hand is where it differs a lot. 80 and mini nearly same body height, but the mini had higher frame and body clearance. The 80 was a tiny bit wider. However with Sluice tree knocked over this year. There's less chance of body damage.

Edit: both trucks are on 37 tires. I swapped out my racelines and put them on my 80. Wasn't selling those with the mini!

Raceline beadlocks are on a 3.25 BS if i rememeber correctly. That should help with the tippy factor. Worst case is I buy some spidertrax wheel spacers and help offset some tippyness going a bit wider. Maybe 1inch or 2inch spacers? Anyone know what spacers to run. Not too worried about bearing wear. It's only will see 2-5k miles year. I drive to the trails and back. Con, dyce, Pismo, Baja, Moab and KOH a year and whatever random wheeling trip elsewhere. That get splits with the Turbo80 as that generally does Moab, Baja, Hollister and easier trails.
 
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GW Nugget

Do the best you can with what you have...
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Sounds like from where you go you live in Central or South California.
I live 1.5 hrs North of Bakersfield.

Have you seen this thread? 5 80s did the Dusy in 2 Days with minimal damage. Had to bug out due to a big fire.
Some of you questions will be answered about the capability of the 80 series.
@baldilocks is running 37s uncut fenders, has the Dobinson Tapered 3.5" coils plus spacers lift is approx. 5". His rig loaded for bear is about 7K, frame height from memory is like 22"
@Broski is running 39s on a 4" lift his rig runs light frame height is approx 23"ish.
@Noahrob has a 75mm Slinky on 37s & runs a fairly light rig.
@malteserunner has 37s on a 75mm lift.
Im running 38s on 3" of lift 2" suspension & 1" body lift. I had the most difficulty on rock since my frame height was the lowest at 20"
Broski had the least hang ups on the trail.
All that written to say that its up to you where the compromise from pavement to trail. I would say mine has the best road manners of the 5 80s mentioned.
I believe that 3" of lift is the threshold of the 80 series before one has to start correcting bad geometry with drivelines, panhard bars etc.
37s on a 3" lift is the sweet spot on the 80 series.
My end goal is to run 39s on 3" of suspension lift by tubing out fenders like Broski did. Frame height should be 21 or 22". Hoping to be able to park in the 7' garage.
 
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Sounds like from where you go you live in Central or South California.
I live 1.5 hrs North of Bakersfield.

Have you seen this thread? 5 80s did the Dusy in 2 Days with minimal damage. Had to bug out due to a big fire.
Some of you questions will be answered about the capability of the 80 series.
@baldilocks is running 37s uncut fenders, has the Dobinson Tapered 3.5" coils plus spacers lift is approx. 5". His rig loaded for bear is about 7K, frame height from memory is like 24"
@Broski is running 39s on a 4" lift his rig runs light frame height is approx 23"ish.
@Noahrob has a 75mm Slinky on 37s & runs a fairly light rig.
@malteserunner has 37s on a 4" lift.
Im running 38s on 3" of lift 2" suspension & 1" body lift. I had the most difficulty on rock since my frame height was the lowest at 20"
Broski had the least hang ups on the trail.
All that written to say that its up to you where the compromise from pavement to trail. I would say mine has the best road manners of the 5 80s mentioned.
I believe that 3" of lift is the threshold of the 80 series before one has to start correcting bad geometry with drivelines, panhard bars etc.
37s on a 3" lift is the sweet spot on the 80 series.
My end goal is to run 39s on 3" of suspension lift by tubing out fenders like Broski did. Frame height should be 21 or 22". Hoping to be able to park in the 7' garage.
I'm in the Bay Area. I mainly run the Con and Fordyce multiple times a year.

I must have read you compiled 80 suspenion thread 5 times already. It's by far the best thread out there and helped me make some of my suspension choices so the new build.

I already own my trail spare drive shafts from my mini. double cardon front marlin long spline and a double cardon rear. It'll cost me very little to shorten my long spline as the tube is still good. My double rear is dented worst then a tin can, so that be some coin to retube for the 80. I already own them so I'm already ahead since I don't have to rebuy. My 80 already came with adjust front and rear pans and upper and lower adjust rear arms. I already have aisin hubs and part time installed.

Really, the only thing I need to invest in is Delta Arms and 6 coils and shocks. Which I just bit the bullet on and this should correct the remaining geometry I have left.

It think it will drive down the street fairly straight. I done my fair share of sheet metal work and welding and thats what I hate the most about welding. Its really an art to weld sheetmetal. I rather lift then weld sheet metal.

Worst case is I downsize if I hate it. I think I'm more likely to hate and regret the lower frame to ground height then going with the higher 6.

I hate RTTs so it aint ever getting one and the only thing going on the roof will be light weight camp stuff.

I wheeled with a 37 mounted on the flatbed roll bar. That thing must have weighed 120lbs. Never felt tippy in that thing at the Con or Fordyce. I'm guessing the 80 will be about that high with a 6in.
 
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baldilocks

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I’d say my 80 might be approaching 7k pounds with the heaviest load I’d ever have on it include me and the wife onboard. Lift is basically 5” depending on who you ask with the dobinson 3.5/3.0 tapered coils and 1”/30mm spacer respectively. Unloaded it sits a slight bit higher at the rear. Frame to floor at mid ship measures almost 22”. At this height, a set of Delta VS radius arms are the only way to achieve proper castor correction an have decent handling on the road, that is if you will be staying with radius arms.

These springs squat a bit more than the Slee 4” heavy progressives I ran in the rear for a few years and allow a little more sway. The extra squat is why I run the spacers. I think that for heavy loads in the future I’ll pop the Slee coils back in, they really do exactly what Slee says they are designed for, and that’s handling a heavy rig and also reducing sway. They ride pretty good unloaded too. I went to dobinsons because the Slee heavies lifted my rear end a solid 6” when unloaded. And also because Mud mania tells me to spend money to replace perfectly good components.
 
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I’d say my 80 might be approaching 7k pounds with the heaviest load I’d ever have on it include me and the wife onboard. Lift is basically 5” depending on who you ask with the dobinson 3.5/3.0 tapered coils and 1”/30mm spacer respectively. Unloaded it sits a slight bit higher at the rear. Frame to floor at mid ship measures almost 22”. At this height, a set of Delta VS radius arms are the only way to achieve proper castor correction an have decent handling on the road, that is if you will be staying with radius arms.

These springs squat a bit more than the Slee 4” heavy progressives I ran in the rear for a few years and allow a little more sway. The extra squat is why I run the spacers. I think that for heavy loads in the future I’ll pop the Slee coils back in, they really do exactly what Slee says they are designed for, and that’s handling a heavy rig and also reducing sway. They ride pretty good unloaded too. I went to dobinsons because the Slee heavies lifted my rear end a solid 6” when unloaded. And also because Mud mania tells me to spend money to replace perfectly good components.
Thanks for the info. This really helps. Sounds like we have similar builds. Technically right now I have the 3inch Tourflex front and rear. Rear have a inch spring spacer for squat. My mini had a stink bug when unloaded and so does Both my 80s. I don't mind it all when unloaded. Its there to combat weight when loaded down and I don't care what other people think about it. It has a purpose because I actually wheel my stuff!

I'm going to measure both 80s in the morning and see what my current frame height is. I just wasnt happy with forklift trial flex with the TourFlex. It does about the same as my OME Js and Is on my heavy turbo80. Wheels good for medium difficulty but not what I want for a true rock crawler. Yes I know it won't be the same as the mini. But damn it. I want to be near 80% capable.

My original plan was actually the Dobi 4 flexis + 30mm front and rear spacers to give me a 5inch lift. But after speaking with Dobi they said the 6 heavies would better suit me. I even asked about the exact 3.5 variables with 6 inch Dobi yellows and they said 6 heavies still. I don't know. I even thought about piecing Slee 6s but I don't they sell individual pieces since I don't need a full kit.
 

malteserunner

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Thanks for the info. This really helps. Sounds like we have similar builds. Technically right now I have the 3inch Tourflex front and rear. Rear have a inch spring spacer for squat. My mini had a stink bug when unloaded and so does Both my 80s. I don't mind it all when unloaded. Its there to combat weight when loaded down and I don't care what other people think about it. It has a purpose because I actually wheel my stuff!

I'm going to measure both 80s in the morning and see what my current frame height is. I just wasnt happy with forklift trial flex with the TourFlex. It does about the same as my OME Js and Is on my heavy turbo80. Wheels good for medium difficulty but not what I want for a true rock crawler. Yes I know it won't be the same as the mini. But damn it. I want to be near 80% capable.

My original plan was actually the Dobi 4 flexis + 30mm front and rear spacers to give me a 5inch lift. But after speaking with Dobi they said the 6 heavies would better suit me. I even asked about the exact 3.5 variables with 6 inch Dobi yellows and they said 6 heavies still. I don't know. I even thought about piecing Slee 6s but I don't they sell individual pieces since I don't need a full kit.
I'm running 75mm Tourflex as well. I gained a noticeable increase in flex when I installed the Delta arms up front. Well worth the money in my opinion.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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Sold the mini truck. The 80 is inferior in every way except for person capacity as a rock crawler . But sometimes you have to make hard choices in life to bring the kids

Edit: second thought the 80 is far superior in driving on the street then the mini.
View attachment 2537715
Sweet Mini, After Rock crawling my 80 for the last 4 years it has proven It's self as a capable Rock crawler literally going on every line the built 4runners & mini trucks were on are last trip to JV, It was also the only REG to make it up the water fall unassisted on the golden crack trail in Moab at the last Cruise Moab there were 11 Reg on that run and it was led by Marlin in his world famous Marlin Crawler Red mini truck who also had to winch up the water fall. 🤷‍♂️
So don't underestimate the 80's Crawl ability.;)

That being said, I would strongly suggest not going to a 6" lift, It's the control arm's binding not the the springs keeping your front end from flexing.
Lower lift springs with a taller free height are your friend.
 

BlueCruiser84

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Sweet Mini, After Rock crawling my 80 for the last 4 years it has proven It's self as a capable Rock crawler literally going on every line the built 4runners & mini trucks were on are last trip to JV, It was also the only REG to make it up the water fall unassisted on the golden crack trail in Moab at the last Cruise Moab there were 11 Reg on that run and it was led by Marlin in his world famous Marlin Crawler Red mini truck who also had to winch up the water fall. 🤷‍♂️
So don't underestimate the 80's Crawl ability.;)

That being said, I would strongly suggest not going to a 6" lift, It's the control arm's binding not the the springs keeping your front end from flexing.
Lower lift springs with a taller free height are your friend.

Do this. 80s are great trail rigs - I would never call them great “crawlers”. Don’t worry about your forklift flex. Worry about how stable you feel on the trail - and more importantly, on the road. If you intend to keep stock rear suspension geometry and front radius arms keep the truck “low”. Skid plates, beefy lower control arms and lower control arm mount skids and a spare rear driveshaft are your friends.
 
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I measured my Turbo80 on 35s and Js and its ground to frame (middle frame right behind the cross member) it sits at 18"
The Crawler80 is on 37s and Tourflex 3"s and its ground to frame (middle frame right behind the cross member) it sits at 21"

The Turbo80 is using Slee caster plates and it drives like a dream on the road. I use to have OME offset bushings and that was garbage and super twitchy.

The Crawler80 is using some unknown caster plates installed by PO. No idea the correction but I think its probably very minimal for a lower lift since he had Ironman 2-2.5s" on it before. It's super sketch and twitchy right now and I'm not loving the feeling on road. It's got adjustable upper/lower and pans but I haven't bothered spending anytime adjusting them yet since I knew I was going to lift it more very soon.


Edit: So re-reading GW and Baldi post. Baldi is at 21" and GW is at 20". I'm pretty much right there currently on 21" on the Tourflex. I'm guessing the Dobi 6s will net me 24" ground clearance at the cost of higher COG.

@malteserunner Are you using the 4" Delta arms?

The thing is I just ordered them 6" Delta arms and they just shipped it yesterday. It's already en route. I'm really tempted going 6s. Worst case is I go back down to 4s+30mm spacers. It'll just be a costly trial run if I end up wanting to go lower and switch.

One other point of data for comparison is my mini was at 31 or 32" (if I remember correctly) clearance at the middle of the frame (right behind the dual cross member). I had 36 Iroks and 35 and 37s on the mini. By far the easiest wheeling was when I stepped it up to 37. I would clear pretty much everything at Rubicon and Fordyce underneath. I'm going to have to pick different lines and learn how to wheel this fat pig that's for sure!
 
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Thats good info. The Delta arms aren't cheap and I didn't want to have to return/swap them out. So I should be good with 4+30mms or 6 coils with Delta Arms.
That's less hurt if I decide to switch.
I have the 4" Delta arms. I wouldn't mind a bit more caster, though.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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Thats good info. The Delta arms aren't cheap and I didn't want to have to return/swap them out. So I should be good with 4+30mms or 6 coils with Delta Arms.
That's less hurt if I decide to switch.
I tryed OME 5" comp springs, to me it was down right scary. The other thing is if you start with 6" coils and don't like them it well be hard to resell them, where if you get the 4" coils and want to go higher the 4"er's well be much easier to sell.
 
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I tryed OME 5" comp springs, to me it was down right scary. The other thing is if you start with 6" coils and don't like them it well be hard to resell them, where if you get the 4" coils and want to go higher the 4"er's well be much easier to sell.
yea 6s have smaller market for resale. 4s be a whole lot easier to sell. hmm
 
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@spyduh I'm in the same boat as you. Wheeled mini trucks and 4Runners for years, and than went 80.
I love my 80, but some trails here in Colorado fell way tighter in the 80 than in a mini/4Runner.
Anyway, my LX450 is on a 6" lift, 3linked front, 37's, etc..... I love it! It always fells stable.

Side note.... A handful of buddies and myself plan to run the Rubicon and Fordyce summer of 2021.

A few pics of my old rigs, and my LX

3.jpg
6.jpg
8.jpg
 

baldilocks

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Thanks for the info. This really helps. Sounds like we have similar builds. Technically right now I have the 3inch Tourflex front and rear. Rear have a inch spring spacer for squat. My mini had a stink bug when unloaded and so does Both my 80s. I don't mind it all when unloaded. Its there to combat weight when loaded down and I don't care what other people think about it. It has a purpose because I actually wheel my stuff!

I'm going to measure both 80s in the morning and see what my current frame height is. I just wasnt happy with forklift trial flex with the TourFlex. It does about the same as my OME Js and Is on my heavy turbo80. Wheels good for medium difficulty but not what I want for a true rock crawler. Yes I know it won't be the same as the mini. But damn it. I want to be near 80% capable.

My original plan was actually the Dobi 4 flexis + 30mm front and rear spacers to give me a 5inch lift. But after speaking with Dobi they said the 6 heavies would better suit me. I even asked about the exact 3.5 variables with 6 inch Dobi yellows and they said 6 heavies still. I don't know. I even thought about piecing Slee 6s but I don't they sell individual pieces since I don't need a full kit.
Once you get over denting the sides, not only will your 80 perform as well, if not better than your mini, you’ll be more comfy and look way more cool.... do you know for sure your rig is over 7k loaded. Mine is fully armored (by most standards anyway) and tips the scale at about 5800 unloaded. I like my set up with the spacers because I’m left with the option of letting it down an inch if I choose to when I’m too old to climb up in the cockpit. Haha I’m no towering giant.
 
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