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In the words of Beavis and Butthead, "Fire, Fire, Fire!"
I actually forgot I’ve got a butane torch. I’ll try that before I get the… “nut splitter”…
I just get pretty apprehensive about using fire around a car…

Also, @Spike Strip just a side question…I have these six plugs for the air rail ports…how the heck are they supposed to fit? I’ve seen folks like Redline get them in there…
 
You have to remove the Unions (the things the air rail nuts bolt on to) from the head. The plugs thread into those holes. Clean around those very well, spray with PB Blaster for a couple days - you know the routine - then use a 6 pt socket (17mm?) and remove. Careful use of a torch helps, too.

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You have to remove the Unions (the things the air rail nuts bolt on to) from the head. The plugs thread into those holes. Clean around those very well, spray with PB Blaster for a couple days - you know the routine - then use a 6 pt socket (17mm?) and remove. Careful use of a torch helps, too.

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10-4. Thanks for the photo reference too.
 
Hello, hello!

Intake has been removed!

I’m assuming (if I have this correct) I’ll need to remove the lower part of the assembly?

& I believe this insulator and block off plate are placed on the end here.

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Yes, the two halves have to come apart if you want to install a block off plate. If you just want to fix the crack, the machine shop might be able to do the repair from the top, if the crack isn't too deep.

Does the metal Exhaust flap move or is it frozen in place?
 
Yes, the two halves have to come apart if you want to install a block off plate. If you just want to fix the crack, the machine shop might be able to do the repair from the top, if the crack isn't too deep.

Does the metal Exhaust flap move or is it frozen in place?
I’ll be real honest, I’m considering to do the block off plate in addition to having the machine shop fix the crack and do the other work that Jim recommended. That way, I can pretty much not even worry about it anymore.

Also the flap does move, I just took a flathead screwdriver and gave it a slight nudge.
 
That's what I had the machinist do - block-off plate, crack fix, new horn springs, and all the surfacing work. Wasn't cheap, but it's been perfect for almost 15 years except for the J-tube gasket blew out a couple times until I used a Remflex and the proper Toyota Stover-type nuts.
 
Some additional photos. Also took the smog/air pump and pulley assembly out. I don’t plan on doing the devane, so it’s staying out. And pulled the EGR cooler.

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That's what I had the machinist do - block-off plate, crack fix, new horn springs, and all the surfacing work. Wasn't cheap, but it's been perfect for almost 15 years except for the J-tube gasket blew out a couple times until I used a Remflex and the proper Toyota Stover-type nuts.
Okay, you lost me at “J-tube”, I’m guessing that you’re referring that tube connected to the EGR cooler?
 
Yes - J-tube - The one you will delete with the cap you got from Jim C. It's takes a type of nut that locks in place, sometimes called a 'Stover Nut' or lock nut, but not the kind with a nylon lock. I don't think new nuts come in Jim's kit. You need 2 washers 94611-10800 and two nuts 90179-08128 - Just checked, the nut is discontinued... 90179-08012 will substitute.

Two things to check while it's apart:

1- The weld that's underneath that triangle-flange on the downpipe? Check for cracks. Common. If cracked, should be welded.

2 - The Block drain, with the brass head is easy to access now. Should be removed and cleaned of crap for easy block draining of coolant now and in the future.
 
Probably gonna take a bit of time for me to get this j-tube off. This sucker is on TIGHT. & It also looks like somebody put some kinda sealant on here or something.

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Probably gonna take a bit of time for me to get this j-tube off. This sucker is on TIGHT. & It also looks like somebody put some kinda sealant on here or something.

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All that EGR stuff has a high likelihood of breaking when you try to take it apart, so beware. It took me buying five complete used EGR setups to get enough parts to make one good one.

Or leave that one alone and know that it's probably rusting inside and you can live with that.
 
All that EGR stuff has a high likelihood of breaking when you try to take it apart, so beware. It took me buying five complete used EGR setups to get enough parts to make one good one.

Or leave that one alone and know that it's probably rusting inside and you can live with that.
Hmm. So if I’m understanding this right (I’m not looking at the guide at the moment. The cooler itself stays, just the j-tube gets deleted like you mentioned earlier?
 
Hmm. So if I’m understanding this right (I’m not looking at the guide at the moment. The cooler itself stays, just the j-tube gets deleted like you mentioned earlier?
If you're ditching the EGR system entirely, none of that needs to be put back.
 
If you're ditching the EGR system entirely, none of that needs to be put back.
OH! Okay! To the junk pile, then. 🤣
Alright, I think that’s enough for me today. I got done what I wanted AND some. I will more than likely be back at it once I get the intake fixed back up.

I’m probably going to get rid of my exhaust and do a different setup too…I don’t think I’ll do a stock one even though Toyota still carries it.
 
@CruiserTrash

By the way, I didn’t even realize that was YOU making some comments earlier til now; I didn’t respond to your DM as I found the answer: Staring at me.
 
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