South's FJ40 "Rebuild"
- Thread starter southff4
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- Thread starter
- #462
After a long drawn out process and a lot of help from our Louisiana friends+ 1200 miles and 16 hours I picked up some axles. I do believe I am going to go back to SUA. With a 4" hell creek lift.
Going to cut off the trusses and rebuild these with new seals.
Specs
4:88
Aussie locker front and rear
Aisin hubs with long field chromo gears
ARP studs
60 series knuckles
Long fields
High steer
Disc breaks all around.
3 " spacers( a little to big to use but maybe Lenny will trade for some 1.5
Might have a cut&turn SOA set up with disc brakes x4 and anti warp bar + high steer for sale soon.
Unless I save for a future(beat the heck out of) mini truck,4runner, Clutchee buggy type ride....
Going to cut off the trusses and rebuild these with new seals.
Specs
4:88
Aussie locker front and rear
Aisin hubs with long field chromo gears
ARP studs
60 series knuckles
Long fields
High steer
Disc breaks all around.
3 " spacers( a little to big to use but maybe Lenny will trade for some 1.5
Might have a cut&turn SOA set up with disc brakes x4 and anti warp bar + high steer for sale soon.
Unless I save for a future(beat the heck out of) mini truck,4runner, Clutchee buggy type ride....
- Thread starter
- #464
Need some input on a possible SBC swap.... I am considering this option.
I had planned on going back to a aisan carb on the 2f. Bought a used one that will need a rebuild. But I would also néed all the stuff to make it work, insulator, air filter housing and so on. Mine has a weber with crazy linkage stuff going on. When I drive it I have to have it fully choked. When I start it back up after it has been running I have to close the choke off, start it, pull choke back out. Also it gets stuck in WOT after you drive it for 20 min or so. I can stomp on the peddle a couple of times and this will stop that. It runs and sputters when you cut it off which takes away my hipster points in the parking lotsOther issues are oil pan leak from the skid plate welds, exhaust manifold leak( which I have bought a tri y header to put on when I fix that) also according to the temp gauge it runs very hot220 and above when driving around town, I have checked with a heat gun and it reads around 200 on the head area. I have a new temp sending unit to put in to see if that fixes it. Because the gauge will go all the way to hot but the engine runs fine and overflow bottle does not start puking antifreeze or act like it is overheating.
I guess my question is should I keep the 2f and hopefully fix all the stuff to get it to right. OR should I save my cash and put in a 5.3 vortec or a 5.7 TBI or anything with fuel injection. If I go that route can I do a auto transmission(so lori can drive and keep my Orion and not modify the rest of the drive train.
With that being said what are the best year motors to look for and what transmission to look for.
I would love to be able to use this as a DD but not in its current state.
I had planned on going back to a aisan carb on the 2f. Bought a used one that will need a rebuild. But I would also néed all the stuff to make it work, insulator, air filter housing and so on. Mine has a weber with crazy linkage stuff going on. When I drive it I have to have it fully choked. When I start it back up after it has been running I have to close the choke off, start it, pull choke back out. Also it gets stuck in WOT after you drive it for 20 min or so. I can stomp on the peddle a couple of times and this will stop that. It runs and sputters when you cut it off which takes away my hipster points in the parking lots
Other issues are oil pan leak from the skid plate welds, exhaust manifold leak( which I have bought a tri y header to put on when I fix that) also according to the temp gauge it runs very hot220 and above when driving around town, I have checked with a heat gun and it reads around 200 on the head area. I have a new temp sending unit to put in to see if that fixes it. Because the gauge will go all the way to hot but the engine runs fine and overflow bottle does not start puking antifreeze or act like it is overheating. I guess my question is should I keep the 2f and hopefully fix all the stuff to get it to right. OR should I save my cash and put in a 5.3 vortec or a 5.7 TBI or anything with fuel injection. If I go that route can I do a auto transmission(so lori can drive
and keep my Orion and not modify the rest of the drive train. With that being said what are the best year motors to look for and what transmission to look for.
I would love to be able to use this as a DD but not in its current state.
I've got an choke cable, insulator and an air cleaner from a late model 2F if that helps you any. Maybe you could set the carb up for cable vs. linkage to make it easy? A trollhole Chinese carb would be cheaper than a rebuild.
But it sounds like you want to go 5.3 and just need some encouragement...
... so I vote 5.3!
But it sounds like you want to go 5.3 and just need some encouragement...
... so I vote 5.3!
I just did the AFI on my 2F and love it, except I did have a few problems with stalling/flooding/fuel spilling on steep hills at Superlift where the carb worked perfectly. I mentioned this to Jrob and he said he's had similar problems. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of it.
Started right up this morning at 32 degrees and drove off without any warmup time. Big improvement over the carb.
Started right up this morning at 32 degrees and drove off without any warmup time. Big improvement over the carb.
- Thread starter
- #468
FJ60Cam said:
Mine is a 83 or 84 2f. The AFI is about 1500.00 bucks? I would like to stay away from some of your problems but would love to start mine with one try and it be 32 degrees.
I have read pros and cons in the tech section of SBC vs 2f. 2f fuel injection, propane.... Now I am really confused!
I'm hoping I just have a bad gasket somewhere.
AFI will turn it into a daily driver... and it's only $1275! I stumbled upon a used one for a good price.
AFI will turn it into a daily driver... and it's only $1275! I stumbled upon a used one for a good price.
- Thread starter
- #470
I know Jrob said he felt like his had lost some power after he fuel injected. How about yours?
With the abundance of extra power the 2f has I hate to lose some. But then again this might be the easiest thing to do.
5.3
Nothing above and beyond your skill to put it in with an automatic and keep the Orion.
Nothing above and beyond your skill to put it in with an automatic and keep the Orion.
- Thread starter
- #472
Jordan7118 said:
On that note what auto would I be looking for?
southff4 said:
Not trying to talk you out of a V8 at all, cuz thems are real nice...
I had a JimC carb prior, so it was about as good as you could get...
with the FI, midrange power/driveability increased big time because you didn't have to wait for the 2nd barrel turbo booster to spool up. But then, you didn't feel it kick in either, so it may have 'felt' like less power.
I think I ended up with a net increase. Not much, but I already had the holy grail of carbs. Definitely a midrange power increase though. And it starts in 1-2 seconds. Every time.
FI is easily a weekend project.
You're welcome to come drive mine around and check it out.
I can peg the speedo now!
- Thread starter
- #475
I will take you up on that offer. Might try to come see it this weekend.
Will this work with the DUI distributor?
Will this work with the DUI distributor?
southff4 said:
Sí. You'll have to get Performance Distributors (here in town) to convert it to electronic. I'm assuming its vacuum advance now. That would still save you a few bucks from AFI. My kit came with a converted DUI.
- Thread starter
- #477
- Thread starter
- #479
Well I guess I should start looking for a oil pan to fix the oil leak!
The AFI will work with a header? And I have a aftermarket fuel pump and a pressure regulator would that stay or go?
The AFI will work with a header? And I have a aftermarket fuel pump and a pressure regulator would that stay or go?
- Thread starter
- #480
What about the gas pedal does it change out too?