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- #81
I don't even know what a fuel vapor separator is! OK, I need to do a bit more homework, but at least I now know what the "fuel tank" connector is for.
SoCal GenIII Vortec Project
- Thread starter JohnCapoccia
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I don't even know what a fuel vapor separator is! OK, I need to do a bit more homework, but at least I now know what the "fuel tank" connector is for.
- Thread starter
- #83
Thanks Frank, I still don't understand how this is supposed to tie in to the harness. I'm going to put this aside for a while and work on other stuff.
Do you have any pictures of the transmission linkage installed? This is Gold!! I have been working on my plan to do this.
- Thread starter
- #85
Here it is, Just bolt it on. The shifter is in the Park position. The other end is stock, just the way it was before the conversion.
That is Well done, now fj62 shifters will be hot on the used market as it is a better look that aftermarket. I am researching to see what part no I need for the transmission mount and have had no luck. Which 60 4 speed mount will work? In searching it turns out there is a Long Transmission and a Short one. I am building a spreadsheet with all part numbers and prices to share in the future for swaps along with links on all the threads such as yours that are helpful.
@fjeng definitely keep us informed and, if you dont mind, when you are done I will host that on my dropbox.
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- #88
I'm making slow but steady progress. I've got about 175 hours in to this so far, but I spend a lot of time walking around the garage and scratching my head...
Anyway, got the radiator modified:
Swapped the location of the filler neck and top tube, and reduced it to 1-1/4 inch. also swapped the bodttom tube and petcock. There aren't too may shops that do this work anymore. This was done by Associated Automotive Service in Covina. $125.
Got the manifolds, spark plugs, coils, wires on and the harness installed. Made a mounting bracket for the ECU with the TAC mounted on top of the ECU:
Next on the list is The Evap system. I'm going to start a separate thread so that I can solicit some advice.
Anyway, got the radiator modified:
Swapped the location of the filler neck and top tube, and reduced it to 1-1/4 inch. also swapped the bodttom tube and petcock. There aren't too may shops that do this work anymore. This was done by Associated Automotive Service in Covina. $125.
Got the manifolds, spark plugs, coils, wires on and the harness installed. Made a mounting bracket for the ECU with the TAC mounted on top of the ECU:
Next on the list is The Evap system. I'm going to start a separate thread so that I can solicit some advice.
- Thread starter
- #89
I'm up to 200+ hours now and over $10k. And I still need to have the exhaust made. But, I see the light at the end of the tunnel!
I decided to mount the charcoal cannister under the truck, directly below the back seat on the passenger side:
I re-used the existing pipe from the fuel separator to the original charcoal canister. I just cut the rubber hose that connected the two sections of hard line, and tapped into that hose. One side connects to the port on the canister for the fuel tank, and the other for the vent valve. I used braided hose for the purge valve connection.
The vent valve is mounted on the firewall:
Here's the power steering cooler.
It fit exceptionally well right under the radiator with a very easy modification, to use the existing mounting points that were previously used for the old PS lines. I just had to cut the existing mounts, and weld a new tab on the side where the lines connect.
I decided to mount the charcoal cannister under the truck, directly below the back seat on the passenger side:
I re-used the existing pipe from the fuel separator to the original charcoal canister. I just cut the rubber hose that connected the two sections of hard line, and tapped into that hose. One side connects to the port on the canister for the fuel tank, and the other for the vent valve. I used braided hose for the purge valve connection.
The vent valve is mounted on the firewall:
Here's the power steering cooler.
It fit exceptionally well right under the radiator with a very easy modification, to use the existing mounting points that were previously used for the old PS lines. I just had to cut the existing mounts, and weld a new tab on the side where the lines connect.
Frank,
What is the name of the part on the left? The black rectangle connected to the black cylinder with hose?
David
[/QUOTE]
What is the name of the part on the left? The black rectangle connected to the black cylinder with hose?
David
That's the vapor canister vent solenoid..
The piece attached to the house is a dust shield/ filter..
when purchased, these come together minus the hose.
I should mention not to place it there as it will get clogged with dust within the year..
The piece attached to the house is a dust shield/ filter..
when purchased, these come together minus the hose.
I should mention not to place it there as it will get clogged with dust within the year..
Thanks.
What cooler is that? I was looking for one to put on mine.
- Thread starter
- #94
It's the stock cooler that came off the 2004 Silverado donor vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #95
Almost there! Everything in the engine bay is buttoned up pretty well.
- Thread starter
- #96
Here's a few pics of the fan shroud. My son drew it up for me in Solid Works, which is a CAD program. We bought a cheepo bending brake from Harbor Freight and a few 24X12 sheets of 22 gauge steel from Home Depot. Originally it was going to be one piece, before I forgot that you need to remove the tranny cooler, condenser and Radiator to get the shroud in and out, so I decided to make the bottom half detachable so that it could be installed without removing the radiator. After tack welding together, I used seam sealer for aesthetic reasons, but also to tighten it up so that it doesn't vibrate or rattle. It was a bit time consuming, it would have been much easier to order larger sheets of steel, but no problem, it came out pretty well.
- Thread starter
- #97
Today I wired up the starter cranking circuit using the brake light switch as an interlock, so you need to step on the brake for the starter to turn. Then I need to wire in the fuel pump, tach and check engine light.
I've got to take a few days off and I'll get back to it for a few hours this weekend. Hopefully I'll fire it up Sunday or Monday. After that it's off to the muffler shop, then shaking down the inevitable glitches!
I've got to take a few days off and I'll get back to it for a few hours this weekend. Hopefully I'll fire it up Sunday or Monday. After that it's off to the muffler shop, then shaking down the inevitable glitches!
Nice! Very clean. Great job on the shroud, and I like how you were able to keep the GM air box.
Can't wait for the start-up video!
Can't wait for the start-up video!
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- #100