Siezed Engine - Next step suggestions?

[bbrinkley007]

I bought this FJ for the doors, hardtop and steering wheel (mainly). Seller stated he and his son had tried to get the engine freed up, but were unsuccessful. Before I decide what to do next with Shrek (that's what I call it), I wanted to try to get the engine spinning myself. Here is what I have found under an initial inspection. I am looking for suggestions on whether to take the head off, or to drain the oil and look at the bottom end next. The crankshaft nut won't budge a micron. I've also tried to put it in 2nd and 3rd gear and rock it, but I swear the entire drive line seems frozen. Nothing moves from my rocking attempts. Gear box seems to shift into gears. Clutch is non-operable so I haven't determined if it is frozen to the flywheel or not. I don't know any other history. All I do know is that I actually have a frame here with a title, and if I could get it to run, it might be worth saving. When I took the valve cover gasket off, it looked brand new (or freshly rebuilt), valve cover gasket looked relatively fresh, everything free up top. I tapped on valves and they aren't stuck. Push rods have some surface rust on the shafts but all move freely. I am ready to go to the next stage, I just don't know the smartest place to start. Anyone with experience with something like this?

I'll even accept "stop, grab what you can and toss it" as an answer, but if I had 2 running FJ's, well... I'd have two freakin' running FJ's! Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Skreddy]

Do you have or have access to a borescope camera? I have a cheap one from Amazon that links to my phone and it’s great for looking in the cylinders to see if there’s rust, etc. my guess is rust between cylinders and rings.

How does the oil look on the dipstick?

Squirt some trans fluid or marvel oil in the cylinders and let it sit a few days. (I mix up trans fluid and kerosene for stuff like this).

 

[bbrinkley007]

Do you have or have access to a borescope camera? I have a cheap one from Amazon that links to my phone and it’s great for looking in the cylinders to see if there’s rust, etc. my guess is rust between cylinders and rings.

How does the oil look on the dipstick?

Squirt some trans fluid or marvel oil in the cylinders and let it sit a few days. (I mix up trans fluid and kerosene for stuff like this).

I forgot to mention what I had done so far. I do have a borescope, I just can't lay my hands on it at the moment (I think my wife probably put it somewhere 'safe' from wherever I left it lying around). I have had ATF and Acetone in it for over a week. The oil looked surprisingly good, no indication of water at all. I'm just afraid to torque on the crank nut too much at this point. I have had it move (read: unscrew) when I tried turning it counter-clockwise, but nothing at all going clockwise. I did check water pump and it is free, as well as the alternator. (not that they would be causing these issues, just for information). The way the top end looks, I am wondering if a rebuild was done and maybe a bearing or something wasn't installed just right and it spun or something causing a piston to get wedged. but from the looks of the outside, it would have been done a long time ago.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think Marvel's Mystery Oil is way better. Even better would be to spray some Kroil directly on the rings and let it work for a few days.

She looks fairly rusty to me. I would pull the head and then the pan. And strip the engine down. Manage your parts so you can put the back in the correct place.

Amoron has borescopes for like $30 that work on your phone. Put it in the glove box.

Watch some "IDOCARS" vids for takedown procedures.

 

[Its me shaneus]

Cut open the oil filter and look for metal.

 

[pb4ugo]

It looks pretty rusty. It could have rusty cylinders and or rusty bearing journals. It might be easier to find a decent running engine for cheap and plug it in. Then take this one apart at some point.

 

[bbrinkley007]

What I’ve found so far.. still no movement with a block of wood and a 8lb sledge hammer… gently applied of course.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well the cylinders don't look really bad - rings could still be seized. But I'd guess bearings: crank, rod, and cam in that order.
Depends what you find will determine what happens next, hot tanked, gasket kit, some bearing, scuff the bore, new rings...
Maybe valve job with new seats, decking the surfaces. How much do you want to invest in an F?

 

[65swb45]

Time to drop the pan and bearing caps. If you’ve never done before, it’s worth it for the education. And SOR will give you store credit for the oil pump.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I had a 155F in my 78 and it had not turned over since 91 and I did not know it was seized until I tried to rotate to remove the clutch. It would not budge, I pulled the valve train then removed the head and used MMO, Kroil and even sacrificed a screw driver and used a drill to spin the oil pump and in a few seconds dumped all the oil on the floor the oil filter was damaged from the wreck. I bought a socket and my 3/4 drive ratchet to fit the crank nut removed the pully and would not turn but would either loosen or tighten the nut.

I needed to get it to rotate to harvest the bell housing and the flywheel for my repower. I let it soak for about a year and then destroyed 1-5 pistons with my mag base drill before it would turn over. I was not trying to save the motor at all. Once it only had number 6 it was freed up and was able to remove the clutch and flywheel to get to the internal bell housing bolts.

 

[Its me shaneus]

Will tell you how it goes to seize one!

Had just put in donor engine, an F135, ran pretty good and it had been driven about 30 minutes worth when I set out to the exhaust shop.

In third (top) gear at about 35-40, I realized it was taking more throttle than seemed right. Slowed for a curve and had to downshift to second to keep it going. Now taking lots if throttle!

I turned for home, knowing I was going to get to keep my exhaust shop money in my pocket.

Backstreets in second gear, throttle floored and I had to stop for a stop sign. As soon as I pushed clutch in the engine stopped. Knowing I didnt want to walk home I dumped the clutch and promptly skidded to a halt, barely getting to the shoulder.

After getting it home I tried a couple times to get it to roll over. Not happening! Did not tear down but pretty sure crank, rods and block had all become one single welded hunk of metal.

 

[bdawg23]

if you drop the oil pan you can remove the connecting rod bolts and try and tap out the pistons from the bottom. I did this on my F before I decided to pull the block. I ended up finding pretty worn con rod journals among other issues so I just stopped there and found a 2F to rebuild.

 

[bbrinkley007]

I'm pretty sure I won't be going much further on this project. That being said, is any of the engine worth listing on the classifieds? Or is it a waste of time? Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Its free to list? Without more tear down you can't really know what you have that is good enough to use or regrind...

Maybe the PO forgot to put the shims in the mains - the engine never turned and then it was left out in the rain. For the price of a gasket set and some labor you might have a tractor engine that someone might buy vs. paying to haul it off or even better taking it for free.

I have learned a lot about how things work by taking stuff apart myself rather than from books or vids now. The "feel" of a spring loaded ball detent is acquired threw your fingers not so much with your eyes.

I encourage people to take apart broken stuff and see what went wrong and if they can fix - a 5 gallon bucket of salvage nuts, screws, washers and bolts etc is like half million bucks at home despot @fiddy cents apiece. You can always use it to salt the field for the metal detector people.

 

[bbrinkley007]

Its free to list? Without more tear down you can't really know what you have that is good enough to use or regrind...

Maybe the PO forgot to put the shims in the mains - the engine never turned and then it was left out in the rain. For the price of a gasket set and some labor you might have a tractor engine that someone might buy vs. paying to haul it off or even better taking it for free.

I have learned a lot about how things work by taking stuff apart myself rather than from books or vids now. The "feel" of a spring loaded ball detent is acquired threw your fingers not so much with your eyes.

I encourage people to take apart broken stuff and see what went wrong and if they can fix - a 5 gallon bucket of salvage nuts, screws, washers and bolts etc is like half million bucks at home despot @fiddy cents apiece. You can always use it to salt the field for the metal detector people.

I think what you suggested is likely. And to top it off, it came with a gasket set as well as a carb rebuild kit. Thats why I was hoping to get it to turn over without too much trouble. I'm still working on fixing up my primary FJ so this will have to wait if I do decide to go further into the teardown. My running FJ smokes, and I think the transmission is probably worn out. It leaks from most places that are prone to leak so I have my work cut out for me. I've had a triumph spitfire since 2008 and rebuilt the motor in it (as well as having a couple of donor cars to pull from) so I am familiar with how valuable a parts car can be, BUT the minister of finance and landscape design isn't too keen on the idea of Shrek hanging out behind the shop! He is still marinading with what I had on hand to pour in the cylinders and I will continue to try and coax the pistons free for a little while. Time will tell. Thanks for the comments.

 

[bdawg23]

FWIW I regret getting rid of my F block, granted it wasn't seized but now that I have one running I'd love to rebuild an engine get it working and then find another chassis to put it in

My truck was also burning oil, I did dry compression tests first and then a wet compression test and had two cylinders that did no improve. Turns out I had broken rings. Could also be your valve guides. Maybe it's worth trying to revive the old head, refresh it and then do a head swap to minimize down time?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I'm pretty sure I won't be going much further on this project. That being said, is any of the engine worth listing on the classifieds? Or is it a waste of time? Thanks for everyone's help.

It is likely too early and engine for me but I have been searching for a cheap F head. (And I am in GA though the other end of the state)
What year is it? Feb 1971? [I need a Jan 72 or later]
And we all beg you to stop calling it an FJ. Since it appears to be a 40.

 

[bbrinkley007]

It is likely too early and engine for me but I have been searching for a cheap F head. (And I am in GA though the other end of the state)
What year is it? Feb 1971? [I need a Jan 72 or later]
And we all beg you to stop calling it an FJ. Since it appears to be a 40.

Lol! 40 it is. Duly noted. I had no idea that was a faux pau... you are the first to point that out! And thanks, the last thing I want to do is be the guy with the thick part at the bottom.

It is a March of 71 engine date from what I could tell from what was stamped on the block. That being said, since the head looks to be newer or at least not as rusty as the block, it could be a different vintage. I don't know if there are date codes on the heads or not, but am glad to check. Not sure if the head will fit your engine's head or not, but if it will there is a good chance it will be available.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Not to change your topic but here is a brief discussion about F heads if you are interested and can use it. I am still not 100% clear on interchangeability and was hoping that thread would get more specific:

Post in thread '"F" engine "CYLINDER HEAD" identification/pics'

Dec 11, 2025

Bumping an old thread as this is the closest I have found to incorporate my question about F heads.
What changes were made to the F head over the years and are they all interchangeable? I know E-67 had staggered valves and there was the F.5 from Sept 73 to Dec 74. 71 or 72 got the oil filler on the valve cover?

Can someone list the changes and what F heads are interchangeable?

• Hugh Heifer

• 

I think there have been about 6 or 7 iterations of heads from the first 125s through to the last of the 2Fs.
Lots of guys would say an F is a boat anchor but if it is running or you can cobble together a couple to get one running or you are doing a resto they are certainly worth more than the $.15 a pound.