Show off your 100 beast with 35's..... (2 Viewers)

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I'm running Lee's old set of 34s (285/75/17) and have no complaints. I haven't felt a need to regear, though I'm sure there'd be some benefit. Imo, I think it's the perfect size for these trucks.

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@geanes I know you didn’t ask me but I’m going put my 2 cents in anyway.

Since moving from 315/70/17s on RWs with 1 1/4” spacers to 295/70/18 on +25mm methods(no spacers)my front end seems to be A LOT less stressed. Everything seems to work a little better and a little easier up there. Like @REZARF I won’t run 35s again either, but the 295/70/18s seem to be about perfect. I’m liking them a lot and I feel like my rig is just as capable but much more reliable and will last longer(front end wise).

Edit: I will say if I wasn’t geared with 4.88s I would probably go with 305/65/18 though. I ran that size before on an 06 with factory 18s and it was about perfect. But if I’m going 4.88 I’m going 295/70/18.
Loving my 295/70/18's as well. I don't necessarily *notice* the power decrease, but it's there. I need to get these gears in that are sitting in my spare bedroom, haha.

Regardless, I'm happy with the tire size. Definitely looks great and no apparent downsides while driving.

FWIW, my STT Pros are approaching 34.7", but I don't plan on pressing that 35" barrier. No real upside for me versus the possible headaches.
 
My 33's looks small for some reason on the rig. Thinking of 35's.. Do we HAVE to switch gears running 35'S?

Not if you live in America. You're free to do as you wish. I have the same running gear as you and haven't re-geared. If someone wants to pay for me to step up to 4.56/4.88's I'll forward you my PayPal address, otherwise, I can live with the power loss.

What are your thoughts on 34"? I'm on 275/70/18 KO2, but need replacement tires before HIH9. Looking at the Falken Wildpeak at in 295/70/18 (34.2"). I'm on a 2.5" (2.0" effective) ToughDog lift with diff drop and 12mm offset wheels (wider stance). The 33s never rub and I've never done the pinch weld at all.

34's are just about perfect in my experience now. 33.5-34" seems to be the sweet spot on these rigs. Past that slippery meets slope in a hurry.

Thanks for the feedback! Really appreciated. My '98 is the lower HP, 4-speed running stock gearing. The 33s have never felt "slow" to me despite being over 8k fully loaded. I'm about to get a Morris Mule trailer, so will be adding 1k to my overall weight when towing. I planned on saving the re-gear to 4.88 for when I add the lockers (budget dictates a 2020 upgrade at this point).

Getting the trailer will reduce my DD weight since I'll move the RTT, awning, fridge and other bits like chocks and some tools to the trailer. That will reduce my GVW by over 250lbs. On the flipside, my adventures in CO will get more "interesting" with that added weight on my stock gearing.

I like the idea of 34"s, but am wondering if I should just stick to my current 33"s given my stock gearing and considerable weight. Hadn't considered the 305 width. Will look into those. While not gaining any appreciable clearance, they would provide more protection for the rim beads on the wheels.

You won't like my thoughts here but I wouldn't do a trailer again for wheeling. Getting to camp? Sure. Hauling one down ANY trail, no thanks and I have been there and done that. They're nothing more than a land anchor IMHO... after desperately wanting to love them. Again, rolling into a campsite, dropping it then wheeling is a whole 'nother animal but I am not a big fan on bringing one to the trial.

I think it’s interesting (and telling) that several of us that have pushed things to the limit (running 35s with ifs) have made the decision to take a step back and go smaller after having been there. If I could do it all over again I would not have taken the 35” detour. I would probably be rolling on 305/65/18 or 285/75/17 and not regeared. Live and learn. It’s all fun.

I agree. Nothing looks better than a 35 on these trucks but until we can get an honest 4" of lift up front, 33-34 is the sweet spot for these rigs. I don't think that a 33 and good driver is missing out on any fun these rigs can have.

I'll eventually build another one when this one wears out and correct all my mistakes. :bounce:
 
While I love the way my 315/75r16 look and perform, they are certainly a lot for daily driving. If you DD your 100 I’d be cautious.

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Not if you live in America. You're free to do as you wish. I have the same running gear as you and haven't re-geared. If someone wants to pay for me to step up to 4.56/4.88's I'll forward you my PayPal address, otherwise, I can live with the power loss.


@REZARF Thank you. I will def look into this.. I am running 285 75 16 on F5's.
 
You won't like my thoughts here but I wouldn't do a trailer again for wheeling. Getting to camp? Sure. Hauling one down ANY trail, no thanks and I have been there and done that. They're nothing more than a land anchor IMHO... after desperately wanting to love them. Again, rolling into a campsite, dropping it then wheeling is a whole 'nother animal but I am not a big fan on bringing one to the trial.

Definitely appreciate and value your feedback as you are seriously knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff. My trailer will definitely be more of a haul to a remote location and park it for days as a basecamp. Not really wanting to run it over big passes like Mosquito, TinCup, etc or technical trails. Really, just want to be able to get over somewhat rocky terrain and basecamp from it and then go do trails from there. I figure the only considerable trail work it will ever see will be when I do the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands and the Rim Rocker (which is really just gravel roads). Really like the trailer because I can get the tent and both awnings off my roof which would be a positive in a number of ways.
 
atnolan94.....I have 295/70/18 Cooper STT Pro's but am thinking about getting 315's. No spacers to clear the UCA?
 
atnolan94.....I have 295/70/18 Cooper STT Pro's but am thinking about getting 315's. No spacers to clear the UCA?

I don’t think there’s a 315 for an 18” rim, you mean going to a 16?

I run a 1.25” spaced because they would rub the insides of the fender wells and frame rails otherwise. You need to run a 1” or 1.25” spacer is the consensus.
 
Kinda late to this party...but here's mine on 35x12.50-18's. Primarily my wife's daily driver, but I like it too. :)



I do think larger tires would look better, but as I mentioned--daily driver.

Is that a part time front hub sticking through the front wheel?

Your truck looks so good leveled out up front that I have to ask what your center hub to fender measurement up front?

Its awesome your wife drives a 100 on 35s.
 
Is that a part time front hub sticking through the front wheel?

Your truck looks so good leveled out up front that I have to ask what your center hub to fender measurement up front?

Its awesome your wife drives a 100 on 35s.
Those are part time hubs and he’s SAS so he’s way cooler than the rest of us IFS guys. :(
 
Those are part time hubs and he’s SAS so he’s way cooler than the rest of us IFS guys. :(
Haha - you read my puzzled mind. I started to get my hopes up that I could give the front t-bars a few more cranks :flush:

FWIW on my road trip this past weekend I had 4 adults & 4 younger children in the 100 and traveled at 75mph on the interstate (east coast flat sea level) with zero issues on 295/75r16.

I’m guessing 315 wouldn’t be THAT much worse right?
 
"atnolan94.....I have 295/70/18 Cooper STT Pro's but am thinking about getting 315's. No spacers to clear the UCA? "

Yes, thinking of going back to 16's. You answered my question saying I would need spacers, thanks.
 
Is that a part time front hub sticking through the front wheel?

Your truck looks so good leveled out up front that I have to ask what your center hub to fender measurement up front?

From memory, it's roughly 24" from center of hub to edge of fender. Might be slightly less.

@duvinclunk already answered the rest for you. :)
 
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A little hard to follow that awesome LX on 38’s...but here’s mine on 315/75/16 Cooper Discoverer MTP’s.
Mods include: 2.5” OME Heavy Kit and diff drop. Stock UCA’s COULD be switched out but the alignment was successful. I get very slight rub on plastic at full lock. And zero contact with the UCA’s because the MTP’s are closer to 12” width. I did not want spacers.

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