Should I replace this Water Pump? -- Source of Oil leak?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Threads
154
Messages
1,104
Location
Mesa, Arizona
1997 LX450. 152K Miles. The radiator has had a bit of seep at the top for a while so I ordered a new one. I figured "while I was in there" I would replace the t-stat, radiator hoses, belts, the alternator idler, and the AC idler Now that I have it apart I am wondering if I should just replace the water pump too.

I don't have any evidence that there is anything wrong with it, but it is nearly 30 years old. It seems to turn smooth.

So the only real reason why I would replace it now is that it would be easy now--- and it took me longer than most people to get to this point.

I have a new OEM water pump in my pile of parts, but I bought that for my sons 80 that has 278K miles on it-- I am planning on replacing that before he takes it away to college where I won't be able to help him if he has a problem.

So should I replace it? Any opinion is welcome.

Next issue--- there are signs of an oil leak. The PO said that the dealer said the valve cover gasket was leaking -- but it seems to be leaking more below the distributor and around the harmonic balancer. It doesn't leak a ton-- I don't know that I have every seen oil on the ground, but the signs are there.

I have also seen signs of red liquid which makes me wonder if the transmission lines or power steering are leaking (not the red liquid in this pictures-- that is just splashed radiator fluid).

Here are a bunch of photos-- Water Pump/Leak Photos

PXL_20260305_043026990.webp


PXL_20260305_042948452.webp


PXL_20260305_043050024.webp
PXL_20260305_043137325.webp
 
Last edited:
The answer to your question is YES, replace the water pump. You're in too deep to ignore it. I clicked on the pics and the droplets make me think that it's radiator fluid, specifically Toyota Red if that's what you're using. Red ATF wouldn't form droplets, I don't think, and I can't think of a source up above the front panhard rods.

Screenshot 2026-03-05 105712.webp
 
The answer to your question is YES, replace the water pump. You're in too deep to ignore it. I clicked on the pics and the droplets make me think that it's radiator fluid, specifically Toyota Red if that's what you're using. Red ATF wouldn't form droplets, I don't think, and I can't think of a source up above the front panhard rods.

View attachment 4097612

Thanks for the advice. I am leaning toward replacing the water pump. Just not 100 percent sure.

Regarding the red droplets-- the droplets in your picture are definitely radiator fluid. I had drained the radiator the night before and those were the remnants of that.

But before I had ever drained the radiator there were 4-5 red drops on the underside of the "panel" (near the cross member, below radiator) that looked like ATF. I did not take take a picture of those drops-- and I am not sure what the panel is called-- but it is this thing-- and that what made me think there might be a power steering leak or transmission cooler leak above that panel.

But as I said, I can't find anything.

There is also a definite oil leak, but again I am not sure if is just normal stuff or it might be something bad like the distributor or worse, the front main seal.

PXL_20260305_181157334.webp
 
I wonder if the two ATF lines from the tranny to the radiator are dripping on you? If those lines are moist, id replace them too. Some folks use 3/8" hose for this application.
 
Next issue--- there are signs of an oil leak. The PO said that the dealer said the valve cover gasket was leaking -- but it seems to be leaking more below the distributor and around the harmonic balancer. It doesn't leak a ton-- I don't know that I have every seen oil on the ground, but the signs are there.
I would suggest cleaning the area and then tracking the leak. From the pictures, the front of the valve cover is pretty dry and unless you have a leak elsewhere around the perimeter that wouldn't be my first choice. There does look to be some buildup on the block under the distributor and the o-ring is probably the culprit there - not that difficult to change out.

The accumulation on the lower block could be from the oil pump cover or the front main. As I understand it, by other postings, most people just replace the front main while doing the oil pump cover so if it is either this would solve the issue. Once again though, verify where the leak is before throwing parts at it. If you cannot tell, grab some dye and put in your oil. You can then trace the path after a few drives.

What is unfortunate is the state of teardown you are currently at would be the same if not similar if you do the oil leaks and that isn't a job that is fun enough to do twice at a fairly close interval.
 
Last edited:
I owuld sgguest cleaning the area and then tracking the leak. From the pictures, the front of the valve cover is pretty dry and unless you have a leak elesewhere around the perimtere that wouldn't be my first choice. There does look to be some buildup on the block under the distributor and the oring is probably the culprit there - not that diffuclut to change out.

The accumulation on the lower block could be from the oil pump cover or the front main. As I understand it, by other postings, most people just repalce the front main while doing the oil pump cover so if it is either this would solve the issue. Once again though, verify where the leak is before throwing parts at it. If you cannot tell, grab some dye and put in your oil. You can then trace the path after a few drives.

What is unfortunate is the state of teardwon you are currently at would be the same if not similar if you do the oil leaks and that isn't a job that is fun anough to do twice at a fairly close interval.

I agree, this is a classic "while you're in there" type of a conundrum. It's a good time to replace the front main and the oil pump cover + O ring since the rig is going away from the house with the son. The $hit we do for our kids....... Seriously, your state of anxiety will be reduced if you do all the crappy stuff now on your own driveway vs having to deal with him far away in this vintage <cough> rig..

Of course, "while you're freaking in there", might as well replace the harmonic damper/crankshaft pulley since it'll be removed anyway. Mine was showing signs of delamination so i ended up replacing the pulley when I did the front seal job. Doing these two things oughta reduce if not eliminate the oil leaks from the front/lower part of the engine. The only O ring left is for the cshaft position sensor which I have spares of. Just PM me and I'll send you one for free.

It never freaking ends.......
 
The accumulation on the lower block could be from the oil pump cover or the front main. As I understand it, by other postings, most people just repalce the front main while doing the oil pump cover so if it is either this would solve the issue.

I think you are right-- the oil pump cover is a likely culprit. And I should do the front main at the same time. But I am not sure if I can do that now.

Once again though, verify where the leak is before throwing parts at it. If you cannot tell, grab some dye and put in your oil. You can then trace the path after a few drives.

I did not now that this dye was a thing. Does it really work?


What is unfortunate is the state of teardwon you are currently at would be the same if not similar if you do the oil leaks and that isn't a job that is fun anough to do twice at a fairly close interval.

Yep
 
Also, just noticed you have the idler pulley in your oil pump cover. I am not sure if a leak could occur around the mounting point but wouldn't rule that out as a possibility.

Wait, are you saying that my idler pulley is in the wrong place? I haven't touched it, and AFAIK it is original. Maybe I misunderstand.
 
The idler is most likely stock and came that way, sorry for any confusion. Some trucks came with it and others did not. I have never really seen what determined the variance though just know from past posts and prior experience.

As for the dye, yes it works but to do the test your truck would need to be assembled again and that is a lot of work.
 
DOOD,... put in that new water pump. Why would you even consider leaving it. It's staring right at you! 😎
 
I talked to a couple of real mechanics today, and they (thanks @richardlillard1 and Travis) pointed to this photo and agreed-- they said it looks more like leakage from the oil pump than anything else. Of course, you have to pull the harmonic balancer to replace the oil pump seal, and if you pull the balancer you might as well replace the front main seal.

So the mission creep continues . . .

PXL_20260305_043104181.webp
 
I am making slow but steady progress. I got the oil pump seal replaced, the front main oil seal replaced, and the harmonic balancer reinstalled. Feeling pretty good about that.

I then replaced the thermostat and gasket.

I then removed the water pump. After inspecting the old water pump I must say that I am not sure if I really need to replace it-- it feels and looks pretty perfect.
But I decided to go with the plan and replace it.

I then ran into a minor issue. The gasket that came with the new water pump got crunched a bit during shipping. It is really just crunched around one bolt hole-- but it is a definite bend that I have not been able to get out.

My first thought was to just buy another gasket-- but do they even sell those gaskets separate from the water pump?

Maybe it would flatten when install it? Or maybe this means I should really just put the old one back on?

Any advice is appreciated.

Here are some pictures:

PXL_20260312_030356612.webp



PXL_20260312_030448928.webp



PXL_20260312_030417019.webp
 
I am currently going through the same thing with the gasket. I ended up ordering two replacement gaskets, so yes you can buy just the gasket from toyota. Yours is probably ok, one way to check is to place the gasket on, do not over torque the bolts BTW. Once all hooked back up fill the system with water from the hose and see if it leaks.

I bet the your oil leak is from the oil pump gasket though. Also the red ATF could be from the power steering pump. It is also another common leak.
 
In my opinion, that's not even in a water sealing area of the gasket - I'd install it with the new pump, torque everything up, and I'm betting you'll have no leaks. Changing the water pump was about the confidence that comes from knowing that you've replaced everything that could become a problem down the road, and handled easily when you had it all apart. You've made good progress - don't let this slow you down,
 
The raised hump that runs in the center of the gasket is what does the sealing (by crushing) so as long as that is good you should be OK.
In my opinion, that's not even in a water sealing area of the gasket - I'd install it with the new pump, torque everything up, and I'm betting you'll have no leaks. Changing the water pump was about the confidence that comes from knowing that you've replaced everything that could become a problem down the road, and handled easily when you had it all apart. You've made good progress - don't let this slow you down,

Thank you both--- I think you are right about this. The damage is outside of the sealing area and should be OK.
 
Back
Top Bottom