Shocks

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Joined
Jul 23, 2004
Threads
76
Messages
584
Location
Richmond, VA
i have a ome heavy lift, i broke both front shocks getting them off (broke the stud) and need new ones asap. will be ordering tonight or tomarrow. i want to know what are the best, best deal, and what will work. i am haveing trouble finding the awnsers when i search (see my thread about it in chat) i remember hearing that ome was stiff, and bilstien were nice. i will be running 315's so i care more about gettin the most extension because i will add bumbstops to stop the tires from takeing out my fenders or bottoming out my shocks
 
You didn't mention how big a lift you have. Assuming you have at least a 2.5" lift I would get the OME L shocks for 315's.

best deal. get some monroes that will break the first time you flex them.

Some run Bilsteins with great success (Great Shock)
 
i have the heavy lift about 2.5-3in (stated in the first line :flipoff2: ) What lift/tires do you have? what is the part # for you bilstiens.
 
The heavy lift is 3.5". With Bumpers, winch, dual batts, etc. the lift becomes more like 2.5". Some put spacers on to increase the lift.

a 2.5" lift with no plans to increase would be a good candidate for the OME N shock

a 3.5" lift or a 2.5" lift with plans to add spacers and increase would be a good candidate for L shocks.

Your actual lift is more than just the springs you have.
 
sc40 said:
iWhat lift/tires do you have? what is the part # for you bilstiens.

I don't run Bilstiens. I run the OME N shocks. I currently have J's in the front and 863's (Your Heavy) in the rear. I run 285's

I am planning on switching to L shocks. with 315's and adding a 1" spacer to the front and swapping to either 864's or 863J's in the back.

I have a lot of armor and toys that weigh my lift down.
 
ok, sorry for the confusion. i have the 863's in the back and the 851 (with 1 in spacer) in the front. i also have a tjm and 8k winch (front is about a inch lower than the back)

how do you like your ome shocks? stiff? man this is getting confuseing fast. thanks for the help
 
The OME shocks are great and are direct bolt on. They were designed to work with your kit. The only other shock I would run would be the Bilstein, but I think that takes some modification, not sure about that.
 
As soon as you get over 2-2.5" of lift, the Bilsteins are not long enough. They are (IMHO) a far superior shock to the OME, but with a big lift like you have, the choice is easy as there is no choice.
 
cary,

would you say the a purchase of medium 2.5" OME springs w/ bilsteins would be a good way to go?

Occasional off road but mostly regular road driving.....
 
i second citadel's question. cary, do you have the part numbers?
i need to buy some asap
 
From the 80 series FAQ: Shock Options and Specs (Semlin, June 2005)

Cliff's Notes: The OEM replacement Bilsteins B461477 and B461478 are recommended by Bilstein Australia for up to a 2" lift. Bilstein here does not rate them for a lift. You can pick these up online for $65US each including shipping which is less than OME.


Autozone is an excellent brick & mortar source for these shocks, especially since they have a lifetime warranty. Many have successfully used these shocks in combination with OEM stock springs, OME stock height springs, and OME Medium/Heavy lift springs. As far as I can tell they are not appropriate for anything that lifts higher than about 2.5" (J springs, heavy's + spacers, etc.).
 
Just to add confusion to this:flipoff2:

The Bilstein 5100 series shocks are designed to accomodate lifts.
 
for info on the billies you should check out the research Nay has done. you should be able to order different lenght bilsteins based on the travel you have/want. Here is a link to his rotw but ive seen some other good info hes posted , just cant get lost in the search function right now. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=101942

if you want a quick fix w/ direct bolt in id say get the L's, if you got the time and desire, i'd probably go for the eye adapters and billies since you mention addition of bumpstops and such in the future to in effect maximize travel and minimize lift.

good luck
 
cary said:
As soon as you get over 2-2.5" of lift, the Bilsteins are not long enough. They are (IMHO) a far superior shock to the OME, but with a big lift like you have, the choice is easy as there is no choice.

I think he is referring to plug/play Bilstein shocks and not the 10"/12"/14" eye to eye (short body and long body) shocks.

Ali
 
citadel said:
cary,

would you say the a purchase of medium 2.5" OME springs w/ bilsteins would be a good way to go?

Occasional off road but mostly regular road driving.....

There are people using this combo, but I have no experience with it. I use the 861/862 combo and couldn't be happier.

Also, if I remember correctly, Christo was experimenting with some Bilsteins for large lifts, somebody may want to see what the status of that project is.
 
You say you want more travel, and you have a 3" lift. Bilsteins with eye adapters will be an excellent choice. Look into the 5100 series 10" travel 270/55 valving. This is a major upgrade over pin style mount OME shocks for reasons of actual shock characteristics, reduction of excess shock bushing material (more bushing = more total shock body movement potential), and the install reasons you experienced. This mates up perfectly with 35" tires on a 3" - 3.5" lift.

You can get eye adapters from F.O.R. or Man-a-Fre. Note in the pic that I have the eye adapters mounted incorrectly and have rotated them 90 degrees.

Nay
DSC04179.webp
 
thank you for all the help. i'm off to autozone to figgure this out. all i need to know when i go in there is i need 5100 series, 10 in travel, and the valving numbers?

should i buy eye adapters for top and bottem? or just bottem
 
I doubt you'll get 5100's at Autozone. You need top and bottom adapters for the front, and just top for the rear (the lower rear mount is already an eye mount).

Take a look at the bilstein website and see your options:

http://www.bilstein.com/index1.php

I think you need a bit more info. First off, doing this mod is going to reduce your up travel and give you more of a half up/half down balance. Most 80 suspensions are biased to up travel to accomodate the weight of full bumpers/winch and other heavy accessories, so if you run this stuff you may want more than OME heavy in the spring department.

The key is this: with this mod you want to balance your suspension travel about half up and half down if you are after rock crawling performance (IMO). That means 5" of shock piston showing when your truck is sitting level in a parking lot (on a 10" travel shock).

So you need to measure the distance between your upper and lower mount surfaces and subtract 3" (only subtract 2" if you measure from the stock or OME bushings as those are 1" thick in total up front and 1/2" in the rear).

Then look at the compressed length of the shock and subtract it from the number you calculated above and what you have remaining is up travel. Subtract up travel from total travel and you have down travel (duh :cheers: )

So for example, if you have 24" between your upper and lower mounts in the front, without any shocks or shock bushings installed, then subtract 3" for the eye adapters from the 24" distance, giving you 21" to fit the new shocks. Now if you have a compressed length on the shock of 16" then that shock installed will be extended 5" and therefore have 5" of up travel and 5" down (assuming a 10" travel shock).

For the rear, you only subtract 1.5" since you only have one adapter.

This will work perfectly in conjunction with 35's and 1.75" to 2" bumpstop extension. But do your measurements so you tune this exactly as you want it with the right shock length. 5100's come in a lot of flavors, and you can go up from there if you have the spend and want to get high end on your shocks.

One other thing I want to point out is shock mount rigidity, which I believe increases substantially in an eye to eye mount due to mount style and decrease in bushing material. Pin style mounts with 1" of total bushing have a lot than can move around. When I first installed my suspension, I managed to leave one bolt on the driver's side rear shock tower loose, but the other tight. Just that tiny bit of movement had my truck bottoming out all over the place. Tightened it up and the entire rear suspension could handle high speed runs through those big intersection dips with total control. Seems to me that if you don't fully control the initial spring motion you are going to get a lot more overall suspension motion. Report back if you don't love this mod.

Nay
 
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thank you very much for your help nay. i'll repoart back
 
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