She’s had a little work done.
- Thread starter stevebradford
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I'm guessing for a winch in a receiver?
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #44
The Anderson plugs are for trailer winch power, rear winching and jumper cables. You know how jumper cable are never long enough so you do this dangerous manoeuvre to face the dead car nose to nose on a highway to jump them. Much safer to just pull up in front of them and jump from my rear bumper now.
All my bumpers have anderson plugs set up so you slide the winch in the receiver and it self connects. The plugs are fixed with bolts with rubber washers to allow a little play so no force will be applied to them. Next i must figure out how to mount a receiver on my trailer to use the winch in its most useful location to me.
I wonder what other useful stuff I could power, flood light? Any ideas?
Yes the cut wires are my trailer harness, I would like to do a bumper mounted trailer plug but haven’t found any im satisfied with yet.
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stevebradford
In the shop
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- #45
Idler power steering pulley developed a chirp on my recent trip. It’s a nice and easy bearing swap bearings size is common and stocked at western equipment for 17$
stevebradford
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- #46
Thought I would check all my power steering idler/tensioning bearings on the 3b’s.
Three different variations. My 85 3b is the left with no sleeve smaller inside diameter bearing number 6301. Bottom right is from a 83-84 3b and has a larger inside diameter bearing 6302 and a shouldered sleeve. The top has two of the smaller 6301 bearings.
And none of them will fit on any of the others shaft.
Three different variations. My 85 3b is the left with no sleeve smaller inside diameter bearing number 6301. Bottom right is from a 83-84 3b and has a larger inside diameter bearing 6302 and a shouldered sleeve. The top has two of the smaller 6301 bearings.
And none of them will fit on any of the others shaft.
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Hmm. My 60 has some chirpiness when it's cold.Thought I would check all my power steering idler/tensioning bearings on the 3b’s.
View attachment 2799011
Three different variations. My 85 3b is the left with no sleeve smaller inside diameter bearing number 6301. Bottom right is from a 83-84 3b and has a larger inside diameter bearing 6302 and a shouldered sleeve. The top has two of the smaller 6301 bearings.
And none of them will fit on any of the others shaft.
Apparently I can't just go buy a bearing in advance, because that'd be too easy for our Mr T.
Although I'm not 100% it's the tensioner. Kinda hard to pinpoint, always suspected the ps pump, when I got the truck I flushed the fluid, smelled horrible. Like it may even have been brake fluid. P.o's were idiots, and the two reservoirs were close together when it was RHD.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #48
Exactly describes the chirp mine had also. pieces of cage scraping around the races.
The tensioner bracket is the same, the adjustable tensioner mounting shaft could be swapped between brackets. So in theory you could pull one idler pulley and mounting shaft assembly from a 3b, swap that bearing and use it on your 12ht so you don’t have downtime. I do have spare new bearings for both types. If you find your way down here I could lend you both and you could pay me back for the one you use. I know that some others round here would only use koyo bearings, mine aren’t that fancy.
Wild guess that yours would be the later 6301
Wild guess that yours would be the later 6301
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It goes away after a minute or so. Quiet once it's warm. Could also just be a squeaky belt.
My ps tensioner is hanging off the bottom of the engine, probably doesn't do it any favours being exposed like that.
Not too worried about the downtime, BC bearing is near me (or whatever evil global corporate horse**** they've been rebranded as)
The 40 is kinda semi watertight ish now...
Might do the alternator bearing too while I'm at it.
My ps tensioner is hanging off the bottom of the engine, probably doesn't do it any favours being exposed like that.
Not too worried about the downtime, BC bearing is near me (or whatever evil global corporate horse**** they've been rebranded as)
The 40 is kinda semi watertight ish now...
Might do the alternator bearing too while I'm at it.
stevebradford
In the shop
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- #50
I can now say unequivocally the only thing needed to improve the 60 series soggy brakes to what feels like triple the braking power is to up grade the 10 inch single diaphragm booster to a dual diaphragm.
Let me explain my callipers and drum cylinders are new adjusted properly, the 60 series just never braked as well as a 40 series especially with a load. Both use the same braking system but for the brake booster. Before with the 60 series coming up to a red light on the highway especially with a load you would feel like you had to stand on the brakes excessively, now not that you would want to but you can easily lock all wheels up into a skid.
Stock 1985 brake and clutch masters/boosters
Ripped the 10 inch single diaphragm booster out
Found 40 series 8 inch dual diaphragm booster with same bolt pattern for testing.
Same old brake master with the new booster and a hands down major difference!
Unfortunately the clutch booster had to go also because of the relationship between it and the shorter single diaphragm brake booster. Now my clutch is as stiff as a 40 series, what I used to drive daily anyway.
Let me explain my callipers and drum cylinders are new adjusted properly, the 60 series just never braked as well as a 40 series especially with a load. Both use the same braking system but for the brake booster. Before with the 60 series coming up to a red light on the highway especially with a load you would feel like you had to stand on the brakes excessively, now not that you would want to but you can easily lock all wheels up into a skid.
Stock 1985 brake and clutch masters/boosters
Ripped the 10 inch single diaphragm booster out
Found 40 series 8 inch dual diaphragm booster with same bolt pattern for testing.
Same old brake master with the new booster and a hands down major difference!
Unfortunately the clutch booster had to go also because of the relationship between it and the shorter single diaphragm brake booster. Now my clutch is as stiff as a 40 series, what I used to drive daily anyway.
Nice. The bigger master firmed mine up a lot too.
I think that does more for feel than any real improvement, but I like it better.
My 60 being a 61 it had the dual diaphragm already. I think 62's have them as well.
My green thing is still single diaphragm, but anymore braking power in that and I'd be through the windshield
I think that does more for feel than any real improvement, but I like it better.
My 60 being a 61 it had the dual diaphragm already. I think 62's have them as well.
My green thing is still single diaphragm, but anymore braking power in that and I'd be through the windshield
stevebradford
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- Thread starter
- #52
Do you have any pictures of the 61 with the dual diaphragm brake booster and clutch booster? Mine was a interference fit and not possible with a dual diaphragm brake booster. Im interested and I think @bikersmurf might be as well.
The booster in my 40 was out of a JDM diesel 80 series.
I do somewhere...I'll have a dig.
Found what I'd posted
Post in thread '<--' <-- - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1221775/post-13402664
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stevebradford
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- #55
Mine is now a regular 40 series booster ??
‘74/‘76/‘77 40/45 booster, single diaphragm (I believe), +/- 3” deep (by memory). Dual were a bit newer I believe… or on diesels. Although I only cut open a ‘74 to see there was only one diaphragm… none of them were ever deep like yours.Mine is now a regular 40 series booster ??
They were just shallow.
stevebradford
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- #57
Yes I backwards upgraded to the 40 series dual diaphragm.
stevebradford
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- #58
My 60 almost stranded me the other day. It started and idled just normal and fine. Driving down the road it was all pretty normal but all the sudden when I gave it the beans it would cough sputter and die. When I started it back up it it would fire up and idle nice, no issues but given the throttle would quit again.
Not your typical air bubble in the fuel line that usually causes difficult starting.
After checking absolutely everything fuel related I found this feed line invisibly cracked until flexed. That’s the feed line between the the primer pump/fuel filter and the high pressure pump, introducing air into the system but not so much the feed pump couldn’t keep it running at low rpm.
All fixed, pulling strong and ready to steal some Russian tanks now!
Not your typical air bubble in the fuel line that usually causes difficult starting.
After checking absolutely everything fuel related I found this feed line invisibly cracked until flexed. That’s the feed line between the the primer pump/fuel filter and the high pressure pump, introducing air into the system but not so much the feed pump couldn’t keep it running at low rpm.
All fixed, pulling strong and ready to steal some Russian tanks now!
stevebradford
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- #60
Yeah it’s an exciting time of year, spring garden time!! our back veggie garden has much better soil I have been working for years than this stuff I just picked up. The woman is putting a flower garden in the front.
Before, just grass ripped up.
This soil is nothing to rave about, it’s 50$ a yard about 1 kilometre from my place, half sand half organic much.
www.pndsoil.ca
Before, just grass ripped up.
This soil is nothing to rave about, it’s 50$ a yard about 1 kilometre from my place, half sand half organic much.
PND Soil & Gravel Mart | Garden Soil | Victoria, BC - From Sooke to Sidney, One Call Hauls It All
PND Soil & Gravel Mart in Victoria, BC has everything from garden soil to mulch and specializes in debris removal and excavation. Call today: 250-478-3322
www.pndsoil.ca