Shakey mirror fix with a bracket and bottom post fix (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Outsane said:
This is how it works!
Click to expand...

@Outsane
I hear what you say and applaud your work on this. I will probably order one of these to try in place of the zip tie fix.

But..... It seems that the tabs that break on our mirrors support the weight of the mirror as well as keep it in the proper place in the assembly to prevent the shaky mirror issue.
The mirror hangs off the two tabs and the bottom screw is just a pivot.
I am curious if your bracket, which works as a way to hold the outer assembly in place but without bearing any of its weight, will work without causing the bottom screw thread to fail? The Zip Tie fix works because it supports the weight as well as clamping the assembly together.
I was thinking a thin bracket or sleeve that fit onto or around the mirror / motor part of the assembly that included a slotted area to hook onto the hanger clips would solve this problem. Maybe plastic maybe aluminum. Would work just like the factory mirror assembly

I know I may be over thinking this and I guess I'd be open to trying Outsane's bracket as well.
Any thoughts from our Mud experts? @NLXTACY
 
Mr. Lawrence said:
@Outsane
I hear what you say and applaud your work on this. I will probably order one of these to try in place of the zip tie fix.

But..... It seems that the tabs that break on our mirrors support the weight of the mirror as well as keep it in the proper place in the assembly to prevent the shaky mirror issue.
The mirror hangs off the two tabs and the bottom screw is just a pivot.
I am curious if your bracket, which works as a way to hold the outer assembly in place but without bearing any of its weight, will work without causing the bottom screw thread to fail? The Zip Tie fix works because it supports the weight as well as clamping the assembly together.
I was thinking a thin bracket or sleeve that fit onto or around the mirror / motor part of the assembly that included a slotted area to hook onto the hanger clips would solve this problem. Maybe plastic maybe aluminum. Would work just like the factory mirror assembly

I know I may be over thinking this and I guess I'd be open to trying Outsane's bracket as well.
Any thoughts from our Mud experts? @NLXTACY
Click to expand...

If someone left their mirror shaking without ziptie or other fix for years, would the bottom screw thread fail? I've never heard of that kind of failure, and I'm guessing that happens all the time. I think this fix will work just fine.
 
Assuming one tab is already broken, do you need to break off the remaining tab on the mirror assembly for this to work?
 
shishkabobs said:
Assuming one tab is already broken, do you need to break off the remaining tab on the mirror assembly for this to work?
Click to expand...
You can install without breaking the tabs, I am going to install one on the passenger side that hasn't broken yet.
 
I really like this solution. The threaded portion at the bottom of my mirror that takes the screw has split (on both mirrors). Currently, I've got about half a pack of zip ties in there, and that was a pain. If I can come up with a way to mount the bottom of the mirror, I'd gladly buy your brackets!
 
just ordered a pair - good work!
 
Just ordered one for each side. I have floppy a mirror on opposing sides of different trucks. I did the zip tie fix for a while, didn't hold up when wheeling or extended highway miles on the poor roads in PA. Hoping this is a permanent fix.
 
@shishkabobs

I was wrong, installation will not work with both tabs intact. The clearance is required to slide the mirror in place.

Thanks for letting me know, if you want a free set send me a DM.

Outsane said:
You can install without breaking the tabs, I am going to install one on the passenger side that hasn't broken yet.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Outsane said:
Maybe i can make something to help with the split then.
Click to expand...
Maybe a bracket could be made that would attach to the tab that has the split threads, could be bent on a 90 that would allow for a screw to be run through it from underneath as it does from factory through the mirror housing. Not sure, but I'd be interested in something you (or anybody) comes up with.
 
20190828_162529.jpg


Bottom scew reinforcement version 1

Final version does not have a back, because of the notch in the mount. I'll add them to my etsy page, and update pictures soon.
 
Outsane said:
View attachment 2070379

Bottom scew reinforcement version 1

Final version does not have a back, because of the notch in the mount. I'll add them to my etsy page, and update pictures soon.
Click to expand...
Just an opinion, but I don't trust anything that relies on the OEM bracket that the original top hooks broke. That OEM bracket has to be made out the worst material possible for it's application. It's brittle as hell and used on a rig that endures extreme vibration at times (think washboard roads). Your top bracket is a good idea, except the screws extend through the lousy OEM bracket. The "ears" on the bracket that the screws go through will eventually break, like the hooks did. IMHO, take an unbroken OEM bracket and print off a copy of it, using that 3D material and I'm sure it would hold up much better than the OEM. Or as an alternate version, print off an OEM with the hooks trimmed off and use your top bracket to hold the top in and then the bottom mount would be taken care of for us poor bastards that have even that broken. As of now, I've been relying on the tie wrap fix for both mirrors because the hooks and bottom mounts are broken on both sides.:bang: I think I'd be interested if you could fab up something like that!
 
@80t0ylc

The bracket I made mounts to the housing of the rear view mirror through the metal base. The oem ears that break can be completely cut off and the bracket mount would still work as it pushes against the main body of the mirror motor assembly. The little ears and bottom part break beacuse the assembly is in tension from the screw from the bottom. The ears are pretty thin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MoJ
Outsane said:
@80t0ylc

The bracket I made mounts to the housing of the rear view mirror through the metal base. The oem ears that break can be completely cut off and the bracket mount would still work as it pushes against the main body of the mirror motor assembly..........
Click to expand...
Your bracket is fine & I agree, is pretty much independant of the OEM.
Outsane said:
................The little ears and bottom part break beacuse the assembly is in tension from the screw from the bottom. The ears are pretty thin.
Click to expand...
You've nailed it - any stress on the OEM bracket is going to end badly. It's too brittle and IMO needs to be eliminated. It will not hold up to vibration, tension & the combination of both. It's track record is pathetic and shown that the stress points do not hold up. Your design relies on the bottom arm of the OEM bracket to survive since your top bracket does not support any weight of the mirror & motor housing. All of the weight is now focused on that arm of the brittle OEM bracket. That's my point.
 
Wonder if anyone that has purchased an aftermarket mirror has taken it apart
to see if it used a better material (or different design) for the pieces that break on the OEM mirrors??
 
I just took apart an OEM that I replaced quite a few years back.
Mirror mounting system seems to be all plastic parts except for the screws.
I see three potential failure points and wondering which one is most common.

#1 is the ears (hooks) attached to the plastic mounting bracket. (Mine was ok here)
#2 is the bottom pivot screw that secures the mirror assembly. (threaded plastic receptor cracked)
#3 is the holes (eyes) which drape over the ears and support the weight. (I had one side fail)

I think the weight bearing holes on the motor segment (#3) would be most likely to fail.
Mirror vibration and movement will snap one or both of these cut out holes.
At that point perhaps the bottom screw will crack its threads.

Still hoping for the definitive fix. Would be elegant. I may order a set of extra mirrors from Mr T just in case :)

IMG_4255.jpg


IMG_4256.jpg


IMG_4257.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

318aye
FJ80 / HDJ81 Power Retracting Mirror Fix
Replies
8
Views
611
318aye
318aye
Rwhat
Power seat slide - Free Fix
Replies
0
Views
356
Rwhat
Rwhat
CaptBeardilocks
Leaking Front Axle Temporary Fix Advice
Replies
12
Views
750
CaptBeardilocks
CaptBeardilocks
S
97 landcruiser a/c not cold enough.. fix or upgrade?
Replies
8
Views
591
FIDO96
FIDO96

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom