Service offered - FJ62 driver's window relay box refurb (1 Viewer)

Spook50

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After doing this on my own rig with success, I commented in @slcfj62's thread here (FJ62 Drivers Power Window (AutoDown) Relay Fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-drivers-power-window-autodown-relay-fix.362868/) about considering offering a service of refurbishing these assemblies for anyone who either doesn't have the time/resources or the soldering skills to attempt this. After @4Cruisers was gracious enough to be my first customer, I've documented the refurb process on his relay box so that I can detail the work I do to refurbish these boxes and give the user a "near new" OEM quality part at a fraction of the cost of 30+ year old used parts. 4Cruisers's part was in much better beginning condition than my own, so this was a great part to get details of the process. As received, he reported that his driver's window would no longer go down. This made for a perfect opportunity to repair and renew a damaged product.

The part as I received it. Considering its age, very clean and no corrosion that I could see on the mounting brackets. To be expected in either a dry climate or if the vapor barriers were never removed from the doors (mine were years ago and my own mounting brackets have some surface rust).

Relay Box 01.jpg


Relay Box 02.jpg



The assembly immediately after dismantling. The plastic box is made of ABS. While working this one I was able to figure out a way to remove the "cap" while minimizing risk of damaging the plastic. Though only a couple of the tabs on his required repair, my own didn't fare so well; but I keep a supply of ABS solvent cement that makes for a perfect repair of ABS plastic. Rather than being a simple adhesive, it chemically fuses the plastic together. The cure time is three days for full strength, but the repair is just as strong as new plastic. With this I'm able to repair any breaks or cracks in ABS as long as there are not MISSING parts. 4Cruisers's and my own part repaired beautifully with using an insulin syringe as an applicator to avoid mess.

Relay Box 03.jpg



The backside of an as yet untouched PCB. These circuits are very simple. Though I didn't make it as far as the circuit analysis class in my electronics engineering course (divorce at the time and wasn't about to put myself in a position where my GI Bill could possibly be usurped from me), I'm confident that if I sit down and take the time to pore over the specs of each component and trace the current paths, it wouldn't take me long to break it down.

Relay Box 04.jpg
 

Spook50

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Continuing from my first post, here we see the meat and potatoes of an unmodified window relay board. Like I said before, this is a very simple circuit and the components prone to wear were easily identified.

Relay Box 05.jpg



Since I had all the parts already available (save for the resistor array; the long black component at the top of the pic, which tested good, but more on that shortly), I depopulated the board. Resistors don't typically wear out unless there's damage, which I saw none in this case nor on my own part, but in the event I find an unserviceable one, I do have spares for those as well. You'll see I still removed the resistor array and tested each pin. What's interesting is that his was much more consistent than my own, save for pins 5 and 9. All others pins on his were consistent in readings to pin 1. Mine, oddly enough, were all over the place. Yet both units still worked perfectly after repair; HOWEVER, when testing 4Cruisers's part in my door my window actually raised and lowered slightly faster than with my own part. This is why I would like to more thoroughly analyze the circuit so that I can determine what exactly is affecting the current allowed to pass to the window motors. Regardless, testing his resistor array allowed me to source a proper, long lasting replacement that's already on its way should I come across any that are as out of whack as my own or actually damaged.

Relay Box 07.jpg



Here is the completed and refurbished board. All capacitors and the relays have been replaced and the resistor array reinstalled. Also, before and after working, the PCB was thoroughly cleaned, first with plastic safe (for the connector) contact cleaner, and then after soldering with 99% isopropanol to remove excess flux. Like I said before, any resistors (and diodes) I find damaged can be replaced as well. Given the large holes in the PCB, I can also use larger wattage capacity resistors so as to avoid any possible heat issues in warmer climates (honestly doubt that's ever been an issue anywhere, but hey, why not?).

Relay Box 08.jpg



On the backside now you can see the nice new solder joints. I use old school lead based solder, which to my experience is much more durable and longer lasting than ROHS compliant solders. I also beefed up the connection points on the small bus bar that runs between the relays. What's interesting is that my part had considerably more solder in place to begin with than 4Cruisers's. Wish I would've taken a picture of my own for comparison. I attribute this to variations in the manufacturing process from the late 80s. Nothing wrong with correcting it now, huh?

Relay Box 06.jpg



My hope is that this will help anyone whose driver's window has stopped working in any aspect, or just runs very slowly (caveat: a simply slow window can be caused by several factors. Refurbishing the relay box can/may help, but it is NOT a guaranteed magic bullet for a slow driver's window! Please research the other causes as well if you're tackling a slow window).


For those who are interested, I offer this service for $100 per unit, plus shipping to me. Shipping back to you is included. This provides you with a practically new part for far less than the cost of a used part that's already worn and 30+ years old.

For any Cruiser oriented shops or businesses who are interested for restoration purposes so that they can be putting better than old used parts in customers' rigs, five or more parts are charged at $80 per unit (shipping deal is the same).

My goal is to fill a small niche for FJ62 owners and at the same time use my skills to fund my own projects and maintenance on my 62.
 

Spook50

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To add to this project, I'm also in the process of designing and soon building a test bed for these so that I can more quickly conduct before and after testing of any parts I refurbish. Right now they're getting "real world" tests in the door of my 62. Great testing method to be sure, but not exactly practical if there's more than a couple parts at a time and it isn't exactly enjoyable to be always tearing into one's own Cruiser to test "production level" parts.
 

Spook50

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Precisely why I'm offering this service. Dig that price. Even a 30+ year old used part will run you over $200 and land you with components that've seen who knows what conditions and abuse.
 
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4Cruisers

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I was able to install the newly refurbished relay this afternoon, along with a good used master switch that I cleaned the contacts on this Sunday. I now have a functioning drivers side power window again.

After I finished the install, my wife and I took the '86 FJ60 for a drive to our old neighborhood and explored a small side canyon that I haven't been in since 1964 or 1965.
 

Spook50

My daughter likes Stitch
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@ToyotaMatt nah that's a good thing. Insurance finally coughed up for a roof replacement after our big wind storm in January that took out half my roof and that big honkin tree I posted pics of in Chat.
 

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