Looking at the pic that shows the profile from the cut end, it appears they are not flocked (which does stay true to the OEM design from the 80s). Personally I think flocked would be a better way to go.
I second that. Also had great success. Pretty cheap and if you are putting in the window relays and take the windows out, a must do! It’s a one job.Through a little trial and error, I found the ideal length to cut the runs for the front windows. These are measured from where you make the 90° notch in the new material. The angle is just slightly tighter than 90° so if you trim exactly to or just a hair greater, you'll be good. For the rear/vertical you want 36.25" and the top/front you'll want 62.5" They will seem a touch long as it stretches a bit during installation, but the idea is that it's set snugly in place with the ends contacting the track end stops. In total the fronts will use about 17' of the material. I haven't done the rears yet but I'll report back once I get around to it. The fit on these is beautiful and my passenger window went from 6 seconds down and 6.5 seconds up (with engine running and throttled up. It refused to go up at all when under just battery power) to 4 seconds both up and down. I also did both before and after timing with a new Switch Doctor master switch (really good quality stuff, and the wires are color coded properly on the new switch). These make a HUGE improvement in window operation. Next step for me is my version of the now famous relay mod.
The rear portion end rests against the bolt hole in the removable portion of metal track:
View attachment 2580461
The front section has a stop tab formed into the metal. Having the run long enough to rest against these will also help prevent it from slipping out of place if you roll down a wet window.
View attachment 2580462
Something else I should add, if you get the 50' length that'll easily do all four doors for less than $100 (as opposed to $75 + shipping PER DOOR last time I looked for OEM, which is an old design and honestly not as good as flocked stuff). Be sure to keep an eye on Amazon's listing for it though, as I've noticed the 20' length comes and goes, and the price fluctuates often. As of now they don't even list a 20' or a 25'. One front door can be done within a 10' length, so if that's listed you could get four of those, as I expect a rear door won't need more than 10' and you won't have as much wasted if you ordered a 50' length.
Big thanks to @Super77 for discovering this. IMO this needs to go in the FAQ because this is a big thing for 60/62 owners.
I’m not sure you can do it without the windows coming out, but maybe someone else has figured it out. I had everything out, so it was easyThanks for the update - have ordered and received the flocked material you suggested. Can't wait to install, though windows haven't been down much here in the Northeast.
One question - do you think it would be possible to install without removing door cards? No big deal, just wondering.
My windows were in, but obviously rolled down. It could possibly be done without removing the door cards, but removing them makes it far easier. Also to aid, I sprayed the metal channels with silicon (not dry lube or anything with Teflon; just plain silicon spray). That helped slide the runs down the track easier as I raised and lowered the windows a couple inches repeatedly.I’m not sure you can do it without the windows coming out, but maybe someone else has figured it out. I had everything out, so it was easy