Replacement window run source for 60-series trucks (1 Viewer)

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The Precision ones are not flocked but neither were my FJ62 originals. If you search summit racing or jegs you will see same part numbers for $26
 

Spook50

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Precision sells these for 45 bucks. Precision Product GRB 5110 81 Detail Page

not sure if they are flocked, or any good. I've not tried them FYI
Looking at the pic that shows the profile from the cut end, it appears they are not flocked (which does stay true to the OEM design from the 80s). Personally I think flocked would be a better way to go.
 

Spook50

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Through a little trial and error, I found the ideal length to cut the runs for the front windows. These are measured from where you make the 90° notch in the new material. The angle is just slightly tighter than 90° so if you trim exactly to or just a hair greater, you'll be good. For the rear/vertical you want 36.25" and the top/front you'll want 62.5" They will seem a touch long as it stretches a bit during installation, but the idea is that it's set snugly in place with the ends contacting the track end stops. In total the fronts will use about 17' of the material. I haven't done the rears yet but I'll report back once I get around to it. The fit on these is beautiful and my passenger window went from 6 seconds down and 6.5 seconds up (with engine running and throttled up. It refused to go up at all when under just battery power) to 4 seconds both up and down. I also did both before and after timing with a new Switch Doctor master switch (really good quality stuff, and the wires are color coded properly on the new switch). These make a HUGE improvement in window operation. Next step for me is my version of the now famous relay mod.

The rear portion end rests against the bolt hole in the removable portion of metal track:

Track - Rear.jpg


The front section has a stop tab formed into the metal. Having the run long enough to rest against these will also help prevent it from slipping out of place if you roll down a wet window.

Track  Front.jpg



Something else I should add, if you get the 50' length that'll easily do all four doors for less than $100 (as opposed to ~$50 + shipping PER DOOR last time I looked for OEM, which is an old design and honestly not as good as flocked stuff). Be sure to keep an eye on Amazon's listing for it though, as I've noticed the 20' length comes and goes, and the price fluctuates often. As of now they don't even list a 20' or a 25'. One front door can be done within a 10' length, so if that's listed you could get four of those, as I expect a rear door won't need more than 10' and you won't have as much wasted if you ordered a 50' length.

Big thanks to @Super77 for discovering this. IMO this needs to go in the FAQ because this is a big thing for 60/62 owners.
 
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Through a little trial and error, I found the ideal length to cut the runs for the front windows. These are measured from where you make the 90° notch in the new material. The angle is just slightly tighter than 90° so if you trim exactly to or just a hair greater, you'll be good. For the rear/vertical you want 36.25" and the top/front you'll want 62.5" They will seem a touch long as it stretches a bit during installation, but the idea is that it's set snugly in place with the ends contacting the track end stops. In total the fronts will use about 17' of the material. I haven't done the rears yet but I'll report back once I get around to it. The fit on these is beautiful and my passenger window went from 6 seconds down and 6.5 seconds up (with engine running and throttled up. It refused to go up at all when under just battery power) to 4 seconds both up and down. I also did both before and after timing with a new Switch Doctor master switch (really good quality stuff, and the wires are color coded properly on the new switch). These make a HUGE improvement in window operation. Next step for me is my version of the now famous relay mod.

The rear portion end rests against the bolt hole in the removable portion of metal track:

View attachment 2580461

The front section has a stop tab formed into the metal. Having the run long enough to rest against these will also help prevent it from slipping out of place if you roll down a wet window.

View attachment 2580462


Something else I should add, if you get the 50' length that'll easily do all four doors for less than $100 (as opposed to $75 + shipping PER DOOR last time I looked for OEM, which is an old design and honestly not as good as flocked stuff). Be sure to keep an eye on Amazon's listing for it though, as I've noticed the 20' length comes and goes, and the price fluctuates often. As of now they don't even list a 20' or a 25'. One front door can be done within a 10' length, so if that's listed you could get four of those, as I expect a rear door won't need more than 10' and you won't have as much wasted if you ordered a 50' length.

Big thanks to @Super77 for discovering this. IMO this needs to go in the FAQ because this is a big thing for 60/62 owners.
I second that. Also had great success. Pretty cheap and if you are putting in the window relays and take the windows out, a must do! It’s a one 🍌 job.
 

Gundo

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Thanks for the update - have ordered and received the flocked material you suggested. Can't wait to install, though windows haven't been down much here in the Northeast.

One question - do you think it would be possible to install without removing door cards? No big deal, just wondering.
 
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Thanks for the update - have ordered and received the flocked material you suggested. Can't wait to install, though windows haven't been down much here in the Northeast.

One question - do you think it would be possible to install without removing door cards? No big deal, just wondering.
I’m not sure you can do it without the windows coming out, but maybe someone else has figured it out. I had everything out, so it was easy
 

Spook50

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I’m not sure you can do it without the windows coming out, but maybe someone else has figured it out. I had everything out, so it was easy
My windows were in, but obviously rolled down. It could possibly be done without removing the door cards, but removing them makes it far easier. Also to aid, I sprayed the metal channels with silicon (not dry lube or anything with Teflon; just plain silicon spray). That helped slide the runs down the track easier as I raised and lowered the windows a couple inches repeatedly.
 
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So I bought 20’ of the stuff in the Amazon link. I had already ordered the front runners from city racer before finding this thread but I used the flocked runner for the bottom.
The flocked runner is really loose fit to the glass. Like rolled the window down and watch the glass jiggle all over the place while driving loose. Anybody else experience this? Just wondering if I got a bad batch or something.
 

Spook50

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So I bought 20’ of the stuff in the Amazon link. I had already ordered the front runners from city racer before finding this thread but I used the flocked runner for the bottom.
The flocked runner is really loose fit to the glass. Like rolled the window down and watch the glass jiggle all over the place while driving loose. Anybody else experience this? Just wondering if I got a bad batch or something.
You might have gotten a weird batch. Like @cheezypoof mine is a near perfect fit all around I still need to order more so I can do the rear doors, so hopefully I don't have that issue with my next order.
 
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You might have gotten a weird batch. Like @cheezypoof mine is a near perfect fit all around I still need to order more so I can do the rear doors, so hopefully I don't have that issue with my next order.
That’s what I was thinking. I was planing on using it on the rear doors, I don’t really feel like ordering more and getting a loose fit again.
 
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Hm, I have an unopened spool in my garage waiting for the back windows when I find the time. Should probably check it. I think this company makes different profiles - maybe it got switched?

One thought: if a window has been replaced with non-OEM glass, it it possible that the replacement glass is thinner? Thought I read somewhere the Toyota used extra beefy glass on LCs.
 
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Taking the door apart today so I snagged some pictures of the old versus the new stuff. So you guys tell me if I got something different

2827E595-3C84-459E-AA56-7D12A820B86B.jpeg

packaging for the new stuff
0DA9A389-6717-45ED-A413-274BFC71BA3E.jpeg
 

EscapeWagon62

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The flocked stuff is the right choice
I was able to fish mine down the window run channels without having to pull the door cards
Raise the window an inch or two and you can move the window a bit as you slide it down
Use plenty of soapy water on the channel and backside of the new stuff when installing
 

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