Semi-Float Rear Axle Question (1 Viewer)

OKMike

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Howdy All:

Need to replace bearings and seals on my 1977 FJ40 rear axles. First time doing this. Based on the info in another thread it appears I have a semi-float rear axle as the hub is pretty much flush with the rim (see pic below).

Shopping for a rebuild kit and noticed they all come with a diff inspection cover gasket. Question: Is it necessary to take off the diff inspection cover to get to the C clip that holds the axle in? Looked at several pics and the FSM but not 100 percent sure where the C clip is.

Thanks as always!

--Mike

IMG-3507.JPG
 
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Thanks! Appreciate the help.
Sure.
Crack the fill plug first to make sure it moves and then drain the dif.
After you remove the cover, I believe there is one bolt, a block, some gears and washers to remove to get to the c-clips.
The hardest part is figuring out the rotation to get it all out and back in.
 

OKMike

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Sure.
Crack the fill plug first to make sure it moves and then drain the dif.
After you remove the cover, I believe there is one bolt, a block, some gears and washers to remove to get to the c-clips.
The hardest part is figuring out the rotation to get it all out and back in.
Thanks! Just did a front knuckle rebuild. It was a little tricky getting the front axle shafts out and then putting them back in. Had to stay patient and keep turning, pulling, and pushing a little at a time. When they reached the magic spot they slide right out and slide right in. 😂
 
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The C clips are at the end of the axle shafts inside the diff. You need to remove the spider gear pin and removing the spider gears by turning the gear. The simply push in the axles where the brake pads are and the C clips should fall out. If you zoom into the pic, you can see the c clips

IMG_2070.jpeg
 

4Cruisers

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For the differential drain plugs I use a 1/2" drive 6-point 15/16" socket ground off a bit so it's flat, not tapered, at the end. A slightly more snug fit with much less chance of rounding the plug. The 15/16'' is 0.9375" vs. the 24mm's 0.9449", or ~0.8% smaller.
 

OKMike

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For the differential drain plugs I use a 1/2" drive 6-point 15/16" socket ground off a bit so it's flat, not tapered, at the end. A slightly more snug fit with much less chance of rounding the plug. The 15/16'' is 0.9375" vs. the 24mm's 0.9449", or ~0.8% smaller.
Thanks so much! Every tip helps thus struggling noob. 😂
 
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Thanks. Is there a pic of the spider gear pin location in the FSM or Haynes?
Give me a bit to take a pic, but until then....the spider pin is in the middle of the gears (marked Pin). You remove the pin by unbolting the diff shaft pin that is circled.
IMG_2070.jpeg
 

Curtice

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I just did this today. If you are careful, it’s possible to remove the pin, but leave all the gears in place. I took the pin out with a magnet. Then, push the axle in to allow c clip removal. Then pull the axle out. I did that on both sides, then put the pin and bolt back in to hold everything in place while I worked on the seals. Then when ready, pull the pin again, push the axles in, install c clips, replace pin.
 

OKMike

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I just did this today. If you are careful, it’s possible to remove the pin, but leave all the gears in place. I took the pin out with a magnet. Then, push the axle in to allow c clip removal. Then pull the axle out. I did that on both sides, then put the pin and bolt back in to hold everything in place while I worked on the seals. Then when ready, pull the pin again, push the axles in, install c clips, replace pin.
Ah...very cool. Thanks a million.
 

OKMike

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Gonna give this a try tomorrow. Now that I have the diff cover off and can see everything for real it makes a lot more sense. Thanks so much for the magnet tip. I see what you're talking about now.
 
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For the differential drain plugs I use a 1/2" drive 6-point 15/16" socket ground off a bit so it's flat, not tapered, at the end. A slightly more snug fit with much less chance of rounding the plug. The 15/16'' is 0.9375" vs. the 24mm's 0.9449", or ~0.8% smaller.

Curious to know thoughts on the plug in the image ? Seems a HEX is better all around.

Fill plug.PNG
 

Steamer

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Curious to know thoughts on the plug in the image ? Seems a HEX is better all around.

The diff plug is protected by a raised edge on the housing that encircles the plug. That raised edge can get peened over from hitting rocks making it difficult to get a socket wrench onto a standard hex plug. Using an allen wrench on the plug you show doesn’t have that problem.
 

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