SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato

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D60's are good but many different versions to sift through.

14 bolts are rock anchors without shaving housing and ring gear.

60/14b has best aftermarket support, but for initial cost a Ford superduty set, HP60/Sterling, is better. Catch here is you'd need to swap axle tubes to make passenger drop, but that's only about double the work as shaving a 14b but with way more benefit.

You'd better link at least one end during this swap or I'll smack the s*** outta you.
 

jynx

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Chevy d60/14b should get you correct drop, but are getting a little thinner and spendy. Steve's right, SD axles are priced right but DS drop. The 14b will also need a disc swap to ditch the 100# drums. The rears come in a number of width variants, so figure out what you're after and get the front to match.

Is the front giving issues? Shafts? Birfs? A 9.5" front would give you a bigger ring, but would net nothing on shafts.

And I may get blistered for this, but I'd argue a toyota axle with chromo birfs and HD knuckles would be slightly stronger than a 60 in stock trim. That said, a built 60 will far surpass the 8" in the end. Now a 9.5" with HF knuckles and 80 chromo birfs, now you're talking, but the dollars add up a lot faster going that route.

If you gotta add perches and all anyway, a set of 80 axles could likely be had for about the same or less $$, but you'd end up with the offset rear.
 

TeddyBoy

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Ditch the truck and build a buggy
Or F-toy the truck and call it good. This is somewhere on the list of possibilities given that i have a drivetrain to work with. Honestly only reason i don't is because of winter wheeling but starting to think that's a weak excuse.
 
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Why don’t you just drop back down to 37s? Probably an unrealistic option, but probably the cheapest. You could probably link it and get stickies for the price of going tons.
 
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Combination of all these options:

BUY a buggy and drop the Tater down to 37 or 38" radials. This is pretty much the direction I'm going so I can have a somewhat streetable and all-season-wheelable rig in the Gecko, and a point-at-whatever-I-want (albeit fair weather only) buggy. It's also real nice having a backup rig in case there's another event coming up that you don't have time to fix one.
 

TeddyBoy

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Chevy d60/14b should get you correct drop, but are getting a little thinner and spendy. Steve's right, SD axles are priced right but DS drop. The 14b will also need a disc swap to ditch the 100# drums. The rears come in a number of width variants, so figure out what you're after and get the front to match.

Is the front giving issues? Shafts? Birfs? A 9.5" front would give you a bigger ring, but would net nothing on shafts.

And I may get blistered for this, but I'd argue a toyota axle with chromo birfs and HD knuckles would be slightly stronger than a 60 in stock trim. That said, a built 60 will far surpass the 8" in the end. Now a 9.5" with HF knuckles and 80 chromo birfs, now you're talking, but the dollars add up a lot faster going that route.

If you gotta add perches and all anyway, a set of 80 axles could likely be had for about the same or less $$, but you'd end up with the offset rear.
already running chromo shafts and 6 shooter knuckles so can't get much more built for a Toy axle. Not breaking parts (often) but I baby it most of the time cuz the days of fixing rigs on the trail is getting a little old for me.

Problem is I've bent 2 front axle housings and can't tell you how I did either of them so somethings gotta change.

No 80 stuff unless the parts fell in my lap. If I'm gonna spend the $ and go through the effort I'm going to tons and wont look back.


Why don’t you just drop back down to 37s? Probably an unrealistic option, but probably the cheapest. You could probably link it and get stickies for the price of going tons.
john has a joke I can never remember about boobs. Basically the punch line is once you've played with bigger titties smaller ones just dont work anymore so there's that.

Unless I'm missing something I can get into a pair of axles for around $1k (or less) including factory disc brakes. Obviously that doesn't account for a front locker but from I'm hearing that's another ~$500 so for $1500 I can direct swap them in?

Wheels and tires is part of why I'm looking for a new direction. What little tread I had before Moab is now gone so tires are on the short list of needs. I'm running 15s now so that aint gonna work which means 17 inch wheels are also in my near future. As long as I'm going 17s then Reds become the obvious choice of tire but nobody believes a Toy axle will stand up to a 39 Red Label tire and so the spiral continues from there...

Combination of all these options:

BUY a buggy and drop the Tater down to 37 or 38" radials. This is pretty much the direction I'm going so I can have a somewhat streetable and all-season-wheelable rig in the Gecko, and a point-at-whatever-I-want (albeit fair weather only) buggy. It's also real nice having a backup rig in case there's another event coming up that you don't have time to fix one.
Says the guy with a Freightliner, no wife, 6 trailers and all of his own free time. 2 Rigs would be nice but aint realistic for this dumbass.

That said, the more I watch light weight buggies in action the bigger a believer I'm becoming and the more appealing an F-Toy setup looks to me.

Over axle and under powered is the formula no matter how you get there.
 
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With all that said, sounds like you are looking at $3-5k to get to where you want to be (axles, tires/wheels, misc BS). What about an option like this? Take what you need and part the rest - probably come out ahead or with a pile of spare parts you can sell at a premium when the rest of us break in the middle of the trail:

One ton 85 4runner
 

jynx

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So sounds like you just need to get the racelines and reds ordered, and find some axles. Might as well go full hydro and link it while your at it.
 
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:popcorn::popcorn:

14 bolts are rock anchors without shaving housing and ring gear.
….
You'd better link at least one end during this swap or I'll smack the s*** outta you.
Yup, and even when shaved with a decent diff cover, you're going to bang the crap out of it (not that it really hurts it much).

Agree, I'd link it first - with or without tons. Huge difference (maybe less so with a mini, but still a big difference).

already running chromo shafts and 6 shooter knuckles so can't get much more built for a Toy axle. Not breaking parts (often) but I baby it most of the time cuz the days of fixing rigs on the trail is getting a little old for me.

Problem is I've bent 2 front axle housings and can't tell you how I did either of them so somethings gotta change.

No 80 stuff unless the parts fell in my lap. If I'm gonna spend the $ and go through the effort I'm going to tons and wont look back.

john has a joke I can never remember about boobs. Basically the punch line is once you've played with bigger titties smaller ones just dont work anymore so there's that.

Wheels and tires is part of why I'm looking for a new direction. What little tread I had before Moab is now gone so tires are on the short list of needs. I'm running 15s now so that aint gonna work which means 17 inch wheels are also in my near future. As long as I'm going 17s then Reds become the obvious choice of tire but nobody believes a Toy axle will stand up to a 39 Red Label tire and so the spiral continues from there...

Says the guy with a Freightliner, no wife, 6 trailers and all of his own free time. 2 Rigs would be nice but aint realistic for this dumbass.

That said, the more I watch light weight buggies in action the bigger a believer I'm becoming and the more appealing an F-Toy setup looks to me.

Over axle and under powered is the formula no matter how you get there.
39's - agree, from a hobbyist standpoint 37's just aren't as much fun, granted if you can get down to F-toy weight range and keep the toy axles, you might not notice, but that takes a whole nother set of driver skills. There's something to be said for building a little heavier on tons and having a more a cavalier "hey ya'all watch this" driving style, at least for most east coast wheeling. Think you'd be hard pressed to settle on something that's going to do well both east and west - has to be a compromise....will be interesting to see what you settle on.

I'd give Steve Be a call and pick his brain on what final weight he ended up at with his Truggy - never did get to see how well it worked, but on paper it checks all the boxes on what I'd really like mine to be like - tons, horsepower, auto, front/rear dig, linked, 39's, etc.
 

TeddyBoy

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6 inch body lift and bone stock IFS setup running 40s, can't figure out why I keep blowing CV joints and idler arms. Any help would be appreciated. :flipoff2:

No really, stock birfields and shafts maybe?

Ok, seriously though, right now internals are not the issue at all. I'm just about as built as I can be in the Toyota format.
 
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I'd give Steve Be a call and pick his brain on what final weight he ended up at with his Truggy -
I just weighed it the other day for the first time. It weighs 4700 lbs. D60's front & rear. 5.86's. I haven't done any full throttle type of bounces yet, but do feel I would have broken something if I was running smaller axles.

Sounds like you can't delay buying tires much longer. Sooner or later a good deal on some tons will show up.
 

TeddyBoy

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I just weighed it the other day for the first time. It weighs 4700 lbs. D60's front & rear. 5.86's. I haven't done any full throttle type of bounces yet, but do feel I would have broken something if I was running smaller axles.

Sounds like you can't delay buying tires much longer. Sooner or later a good deal on some tons will show up.
wow, woulda bet you were far heavier than that.

right now I'm in no big hurry, Moab trip was far more expensive than anticipated this go around.

Yes tars are needed but that's also kinda whats pushing a potential change. I gotta go 17s this time around so if I'm buy wheels they're gonna be for whatever axle I end up running be it 8 lug or 6 lug.

I think the debate is morphing into either one-ton-axle the rig or make it a light weight f-toy, each has its pros and cons. :meh:
 
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Tons don't have to be THAT heavy. A rear D60 converted from FF to SF isn't that heavy or expensive. New Ford style SF axle ends are under $100/pr. 35 or 40 spline chromo Moser, Strange or MW custom axles are around $350, axle bearings $70/set, shave kit is cheap.

The initial price for front D60's isn't that cheap now days unfortunately. You can cut the long side axle tube of a front Chevy D60 down to the length of an 85 F250 axle and end up with a 64" axle. Good width for a Toyota.
 
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