Rust on the floor pan, behind rear heater, and rear sliding window of my '93, what to do? (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 6, 2016
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144
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Alabama
Hey Ih8mudders,

Well my goal of line-x, dynaliner, and new carpet has hit a road block as I have discovered rust in three areas so far in my newly-acquired ride. As I was removing the sound deadner on top of the drivers-side floor pan I notice that there was some rust (which I had hoped would be just surface stuff). Upon finally removing the stuck on carpet pad and deadner I found more rust, what was worse, was that it had apparently gotten so bad that now there is a hole in the floor plan. I also found rust at the base of the rear-sliding window and right in front of the rear heater that is under the center console. Check the pictures out below.

I'm still a newbie with all of this and I've seen so many different threads and posts on how to deal with the rust. Is there anything that has changed in treating rust since those posts were posted a long time ago? Is there a chemical solution that I could use to get rid of the surface rust? What mechanical stuff would I need to do? What would be the best way to deal with the hole? Cut it out and weld in some metal? If so what kind of metal is the best to use? Is it worth my while to track down a-for-parts FZJ80 and get the floor pan out of it? So many questions and I all I want to do is get it done so I can work on other items on the ride. I appreciate any help and my apologies if I missed a post or two out there which could have gotten me the answer.

Best!

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Joined
Feb 4, 2015
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First thing I'd do is find where that water is coming in from, and put a stop to it. Look at your sun roof drains leaking down your A & C door pillars on to your floors, or front window gasket. As for the rust around your rear sliding windows, i can tell you for a fact, that, that leak is coming in under the weather striping around your windows. If you spray water on those windows, you'll see water running in around the holes in the window frame, where the plastic clips hold your weather stripping to the window frame. Another place where you can find water leaking in, will be around the weather stripping that seals your gas filler neck, to the body. As for the hole in the floor board, that can be easily fixed by mig welding in a patch panel, made out of 16, or 18 gauge sheet metal. To remove the rust on your floor board, you can treat a small spot at a time with Naval Jelly, to dissolve the rust, and then a wire wheel to clean it to bare metal, then repaint it.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Hey Rifleman, thanks for your help with this! I tracked down the A and C pillars and I don't have any signs of rust there. I checked the passenger side today after finally getting around to removing the deadener and there is just a little surface rust there. I'm wondering if it had collected at the bottom of the floor pans for over the last 24 years and this is the end result? If so I guess I'm lucky for now. The vehicle lived a good chunk of it's life in WV and then down in FL, so it is possible that it also faced some salt up there too. I'll have to investigate further.

I'm going to play around with the window frame and took a look at that in more detail. I'm thinking the previous owner might have had a doing in that as he repainted the exterior. I would think he would have caught it when he did that as he pulled the seals/weather stripping around all of the FZJ to repaint those areas. I might be mistaken though. Lucky for me the gas filler neck is good to! Whewww.

I'll check out Naval Jelly. I have never heard of it before. I've got the wire (actually a nylon) wheel ready to go, now time to track down the Naval Jelly and get it prepped for Line-X spraying. The folks at my local Line-X authorized dealer told me to strip the paint down to as bare metal as I could get as it would save me more than half of the costs in them doing it.
 
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Messages
2,359
 
I'd pull off all your inside plastic trim panels, and look for your water leak while someone sprays down your windshield, and sun roof with a garden hose. As for removing the paint before you do the Line X, I'd do it the easy way. Go to your local auto parts store, and pick up some brush on paint stripper, you can get Navel Jelly there too. Make sure you use eye protection, and gloves while working with Navel Jelly, it's a caustic.
 
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Messages
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It's been rained here quite a bit yesterday and it will tomorrow, I'm going to let nature show me the water leaks! Yesterday there wasn't any water inside, but maybe it wasn't enough water? Your thoughts? I'll make sure to get that going on the the paint stripper and Naval Jelly! Thanks for the recommendation and help!
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
138
Location
Montgomery, AL
Hey Rifleman, thanks for your help with this! I tracked down the A and C pillars and I don't have any signs of rust there. I checked the passenger side today after finally getting around to removing the deadener and there is just a little surface rust there. I'm wondering if it had collected at the bottom of the floor pans for over the last 24 years and this is the end result? If so I guess I'm lucky for now. The vehicle lived a good chunk of it's life in WV and then down in FL, so it is possible that it also faced some salt up there too. I'll have to investigate further.

I'm going to play around with the window frame and took a look at that in more detail. I'm thinking the previous owner might have had a doing in that as he repainted the exterior. I would think he would have caught it when he did that as he pulled the seals/weather stripping around all of the FZJ to repaint those areas. I might be mistaken though. Lucky for me the gas filler neck is good to! Whewww.

I'll check out Naval Jelly. I have never heard of it before. I've got the wire (actually a nylon) wheel ready to go, now time to track down the Naval Jelly and get it prepped for Line-X spraying. The folks at my local Line-X authorized dealer told me to strip the paint down to as bare metal as I could get as it would save me more than half of the costs in them doing it.

Who are you using to do the line-x
 
Joined
May 6, 2016
Messages
144
Location
Alabama
Hey Reinhardt,

It's the only folks in Montgomery who have to take it to Auburn. Might not Line-x it now though, might just fix the rust issues, repaint, dynomat, dynoliner, and then put new carpet in. Save the 1100 and of towards a new bumper or rack system.

Looking forward to hearing about that Cement 4Runner! ;)
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
138
Location
Montgomery, AL
YES SIR! Was just wondering, bc i found a lil rust in mine and debating about going back with stock interior or going all the way out! Looks like ill be ditching the factory rack to :frown: 3 of the 8 nut sets were rusted to the point where they came out with the screws so going to patch the holes (if not to big may use a new rubber/urethane expandable ones fingers crossed i can salvage it)
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
138
Location
Montgomery, AL
Lucky! Thank you, I really want to keep my factory rack as i love the look of it, but i may go with a gutter mounted gobi or something similar, and use one of the Aforementioned holes as a way to allow power in and out of the cabin!
 

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