RTE will not idle and left over night seems to start w/ low compression and tick

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yeah, but is that dist off to y'all?

Or does the computer factor that in, in the "short the "T"" terminal?
 
well I popped another one in there and...no go....:bang:


about at the end of my rope with this one....



what's the deal with the match marks on the gear end of the dist? Do you line it up with the cast mark then put it in and lines up? Or do you want the dot lined with the cast mark once it's in?
 
the mark on the end of the distributor is to line up the with the cam gear. unless you have the valve cover off, its not worth messing with. I have never used that mark to align it before.

all that is for is so you get equal retardation and advance when you time it.

i do recall KLF saying somthing about it, and there was other related topics with in the the thread.

Like i said, line up the rotor with the connector bracket, amke sure the crank is at 5 and tighten it down. '

you do realize, it turns as you push it in right? you have to compensate for that. Im sure you do, just making sure. :D
 
I'm doing 0. Seems when I do that I get mixed results or...??? IDK luck into it.


That's what I've been thinking all along. I'll do that.


My problem is wristy, I do so many tear downs. I'm putting all this together from scratch where most people are only doing replacements. They can see what they had, and put it back like that. I'm not that lucky.


THX!!
 
another thing that's fowling me up is, I think the dist goes with the head. So I think the cam at TDC the dist should point at #1. I'm doing it the opposite with I guess what should be done, which is set the button at #1 with the crank where it should be.

I'm setting all my dists with the crank at 0....this shall end....
 
wristy, or anybody, is there a way to start the motor from under the hood?


like a terminal to jump or something?
 
ooo, if that's the case, I have a killer test light with a switch on it. It's the only one I've ever seen like it...and if it works I'll get some pics of it.
 
Dear Mr. Hilux,

When I fly home to Alabama this summer I may have to come see you. We have good friends in Chattanooga. Where in relation to that are you located? Maybe a pilgrimage to Graceland and Hiluxland could be combined? (I realize that's clear across the state from Chattanooga.)

You have to be worthy of the trip. Should I come in the 80, the 4Runner, or the Shelby GT500?

All kidding aside, I admire your tenaciousness with these Toyotas!
 
Pull small wire off of starter, hook test wire with alligator clip there... touch other end to bat +. It will turn, but won't try to start unless the key is on....



no worky :frown:

tried twice with a standard test light. I'm getting a connection:idea:... but the starter is not even offering to bump...

the little pull out wire?...or the power wire, the one that bolts on?
 
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What? Cussing classes.

Where? Anytime I'm working on this RTE in my garage.

How much? FREE!!! Just show up and present a picture ID.


oh, and you might want to bring a chair. Stadium seating. 1st come 1st served.
 
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Sorry, I should have been more clear... Just a test wire with at least one alligator clip on the end for the starter. No test light. Yes, the small wire that just clips in. You'll need 3-4 feet if you go out the wheel well and around the fender, or 2-3 feet if you go inside the engine bay.
 
uh, do I set the cam at TDC with the crank at 0 or 5°?
 
dont worry about the cam. forget that thing exists. unless the chain is off. is your chain still off? you got me replying to both threads, now in just stickin to answering the last reply in one givin thread. :flipoff2:

granted the chain is installed:
turn the crank pulley till the mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the numbers above the crank pulley. Align the crank pulley with the english numeral five (5)
 
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Does this look off? The crank is at 0, so if it was backed to 5 it would seem it's a tooth off.

And pin, yeah I'm sorry. I'm working on two at one time so it's even confusing to me some questions I'm asking.

sorry. :whoops:



I tot the crank had to be at TDC in order to match the cam?...:confused:

I wouldn't call that "ignition timing" to me, "ignition" is in the "ignition system" i.e the distributor....:bang:





oh god,,,,the charge pipe comes off yet again!! :crybaby:
 
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Alright, now run it like that. Get that distributor in there, and line it up so the rotor is in the general vicinity of that connector bracket. Now you can see everything, so this should be straight forward.

yeah the cam gear is not exact on yours. I recall mine being a little off too. I really dont want to pull the vave cover off, but If you continue on with this, and findyourself still with problems, I will pull mine and take a pic.

Today I am dealing with problems too. I am trying to get my fuel pressure line which has a M14x1.50 pitch inverted flare nut to thread into my new carter fuel pump, which has a standard inverted flare .500"

fawk.
 
***for future serch results***

Set the T/E-1 connector and now I've got 2 codes, one of which is not supposed to go to that model....?


11 and 14

it's a jan 85 so....?


frapping Chilton's! :mad: :bang: Note to self: get FSM



Per page FI-24 of the 1985 Toyota truck FSM.


Diagnosis indication


1) including "normal", the ECU is programed for the following 13 (22R-E), 14 (22R-TE) diagnostic codes.

2) when 2 or more codes are indicated, the lowest number (code) will appear first.

3) all detected codes, except 11 and 13 will be retained in the memory by the ECU from the time of detection until canceled out.

4) once a malfunction is cleared, the "check engine" warning light on the instrument panel will go out but the diagnostic code(s) remain stored in ECU memory (except for code 11 and 13)
 
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