RTE will not idle and left over night seems to start w/ low compression and tick

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dilemma:


truck has run, I herd it, drove it....


Getting code 11

short circuit in terminal "T" (well duh, T-E1) when ac switch ON or IDL point off.

1) air condition switch

2) Throttle position circuit

3) Throttle position sensor

4) ECU

DK the what the "IDL point" is...

do I need to adjust (some thing I'm not familiar with nor have I ever done) the TPS?...If I've herd it run and drove it?



I might have broke some trash in the fuel lines free. But that doesn't make sense as much as I have run through it....:confused: prolly a gallon
 
I would at least check the TPS, you'll need feeler gauges and a multimeter. There should be a link in the FAQ, but if not, search 4Crawler.com for it (although I can't say for sure that the RTE specs are the same as the RE...)
 
durka durka....

the tank is lacquered and so is the level indicator(liar!)....


gonna go get some petrol
 
well of course I can't be THAT lucky...

Now I've got to drop the tank!(the gauge is flashing) :) yay, oh happy day!



ok, back to my original problem.....


it will not time. T-E shorted, lets say it runs best at 30(3-0, thirty)deg BTDC. The closer I try and put it the worse off it gets till it stutters and stalls.


DO I:

Have the cam off?

Just HTF does one set the timing on a 22RE?



Do crank go at 12deg or 0...or 5...or what?...then cam at what?...the match marks?...the dowel at 12:00?
 
now it needs a windshield.....anyone got a couple sticks of dino mite?
 
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it's got to be my TPS....:frown:


22RE Timing Issues! - YotaTech Forums


god...I've done so much IH8 to do anymore...even if it's just a little to see it through....


it's idled at 950 and sounded real good. but why would the TPS being bad make the time at 25°-30° BTDC?



Death toll to date:

Removed engine from donor

Removed engine from 4Runner

Got completely finished installing donor motor only to break off the #4 spark plug flush off in #4.

Spent weeks trying to get the piece out of the hole

Spent a week at a friends, a life long mechanic to remove...he couldn't

Brought 4Runner back home,

Removed engine.....

Drove engine 2hrs to another friends to remove...

Drove engine with damaged hole due to the removal 2hrs back home....

RE-installed motor in 4Runner...

Bad FP, so changed it.

Bad FP so took it back and got another

No fuel, so cleaned out the tube for the slosh tank

Finally get it to start and it won't idle so I can check the timing....

Gage lied to me so I removed FP to look, messed up fuel level sending unit...no prolly have to remove tank to replace


uh,....
 
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so it would run, smooth, and at 30° BTDC if the cam was one tooth off to the left?
 
Well I wouldnt say its off. Off indicates a problem. its more of a wacky design. And its the way it should be.

I cant explain your insane timing though. I am surprized you got it that retarded. How can you even know its 30 anyway? the numbers dont even go that high on the little tab down there.
 
WristPin said:
I cant explain your insane timing though. I am surprized you got it that retarded. How can you even know its 30 anyway? the numbers dont even go that high on the little tab down there.
Click to expand...



yup, it's about 3x the width of the timing tab off,...with a timing light...


right at about a 45 degree angle from 0
 
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well that aint right. just like the sun dont rise in the west.

are you 100% positive you are using the actual timing mark, not a nick?
That thing wouldnt run if its at 30 degrees. well maybe but only one once cylinder half the time, and sound like a stuck hog.
 
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