RPMs while in D at a stop

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

In addition to the suggestions, for my specific truck, re-doing the timing belt / WP / crank seal / cam tower seals / thermostat / PCV / plugs all led to a much smoother idle. I had tried ECM resets in the past w/ cleaning the top end hence my theory.

Can't explain why that would help though - any insights from experts is appreciated.
 
2001LC said:
Number one thing that helps, is resetting ECM during a minor tune. Vibration and shake at Idle
Click to expand...
Ive never cleaned the MAF sensor, or disconnected the battery for that matter. Lol, i will read up on cleaning MAF and give it a shot this weekend. What interval should plugs and coil packs be changed? Im at 140k, not sure if its been done before or not. Do you do packs and plugs, or just plugs? Thankya!
 
scwill said:
Ive never cleaned the MAF sensor, or disconnected the battery for that matter. Lol, i will read up on cleaning MAF and give it a shot this weekend. What interval should plugs and coil packs be changed? Im at 140k, not sure if its been done before or not. Do you do packs and plugs, or just plugs? Thankya!
Click to expand...

The Toyota service portal should have a factor maint. schedule ... I'm pretty sure it's either 120 or 125K. I only did plugs ... some do both just get ready for $60/coil if you go that route.
 
kcobourn said:
The Toyota service portal should have a factor maint. schedule ... I'm pretty sure it's either 120 or 125K. I only did plugs ... some do both just get ready for $60/coil if you go that route.
Click to expand...
Damn!. Heres what im gonna do and i will report back here. Gonna try and find some oem plugs and air filter. Do plugs, filter, spray maf and tb and unhook battery, put seafoam in gas tank. Im pretty sure none of that has been done before. I will report back on how better it makes me run if any. As always i learned something from yall today. Thanks.
 
Try 44K if you can get it or Chevron Techron in the gas tank.

I like to change spark plugs with timing belt at 90K miles. FSM states change when spark plug gap widens to 1.3mm, I do once ~1.2mm.

When to replace Ignition coils.
 
Last edited:
I've got the same issue. Neutral or Park resolves it. I haven't been able to track it down.
It's good to hear Im not the only one, and that the transmission isn't about to blow up.
 
kcobourn said:
In addition to the suggestions, for my specific truck, re-doing the timing belt / WP / crank seal / cam tower seals / thermostat / PCV / plugs all led to a much smoother idle. I had tried ECM resets in the past w/ cleaning the top end hence my theory.

Can't explain why that would help though - any insights from experts is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Got some maf cleaner today, dude said i could use it on tb too, is this correct? Gotta go pick up my spark plugs and filter at toyota of granbury. Another question, is this where i spray the cleaner on maf or is the sensor inside the tube, or do i spray both.

20180124_122907.webp
 
Remove the two screws and pull out the sensor and you will see thin wires/sensors inside of it. Spray the wires/sensors without touching with anything but vapor of spray cleaner.

CRC MAF cleaner is good stuff, I suppose you can use on Throttle body. Don't spray to much as you do not want spray to penetrate the axle of butterfly into motor of T-body.
 
Last edited:
2001LC said:
Remove the two screws and pull out the sensor and you will see thin wires/sensors inside of it. Spray the wires/sensors without touching with anything but vapor of spray cleaner.

CRC MAF cleaner is good stuff, I suppose you can use on Throttle body. Don't spray to much as you do not want spray to penetrate the axle of butterfly into motor of T-body.
Click to expand...
Changed plugs, changed air filter, cleaned MAF, cleaned TB. Even put grease on battery. Hooked everything back up and started it. Ran like crap, check engine light on. Went for a cruise and when i floored it, it wanted to die on me. I thought damn, here we go. Popped hood and i didnt reconnect the MAF sensor, idiot!. So now i unhooked battery and im waiting, then i will start again. Hope i didnt mess anything up, i dont see how i could. Here are some pics for everyone, still dont know how it will run but we will see. Plugs looked pretty oily no6 no4 no3 being the worst. TB was bad as well. Air filter not that bad.

20180127_144633.webp


20180127_094122.webp


20180127_140846.webp


20180127_094721.webp


20180127_142103.webp
 
Should be just fine now that you've hook everything up. May take a few cycle for ECM to learn and smooth out idle.

#4 & 6 look like possible loose and/or some oil on them. Any oil in spark plug tubes indicate your tube seal are leaking?
 
Not any oil in the tubes that i noticed. A few plugs were not as tight as others. I tightened back to 13 ft pounds, or pretty close. Will i need to clear the check engine light or will it go off after the computer runs tests? Im sure it takes a certain amounts of starts. Toughest part is getting the harness off the coil pack, i used a flat head for leverage.
 
Check engine light off after first start of re connecting MAF. Cant go for a drive cause ive had to many beers. Will report back in the am, if this helped out my intial concerns. In park im running higher then normal rpms's.
 
Just went for a cruise. I have good news, and it doesnt come very often. While in D at a stop, quiet as a church mouse. Also smooth in park, after start up, neutral, all gears. Engine is running fantastic. So, as others have said, if youre having the same issue as me. Give plugs, maf, tb, air filter a shot. Here is a pic after my run this am.

20180128_082600.webp
 
thanks!

had the same drone in drive when at a light, started a few months ago(maybe around the time I changed all the coil packs,but won't swear to it)

cleaned just the TB and MAF.......no more drone. Pretty sure neither have ever been done(almost for sure not by me in the last 12 years)
 
I have a pretty good hum / drone when stopped in drive. I don't know if it's always been that way or recent (wife drive is most of the time). I had all timing belt, diff drop done recently. I'll try cleaning the maf and resetting the ECM and see if idle RPMs come up.
 
I was orignaly thinking a motor or trans mount was bad, but had none of the symptoms of a bad mount(to test, I put in drive,left foot hard on brakes, and mashed the throttle with right foot, typically a bad mount will show as the t case lever moving way to the right when under that kinda load)

So super easy and cheap fix, which makes me happy

Darn 100 series is the most trouble free rig I have ever owned.
 
With what @Landpimp said about the t case lever, mine is always a little to the right, is that normal or is one of my motor mounts bad?
 
It's suppose to move a bit, but on my 80 series when the DS mount went, it moved a few inches(2+) assume a 100 would be similar.
 
Landpimp said:
It's suppose to move a bit, but on my 80 series when the DS mount went, it moved a few inches(2+) assume a 100 would be similar.
Click to expand...
The way the 100 mounts are designed, they can completely separate and have rubber failure but appear to sit and look fine from a visual inspection. Have a look at people who have previously replaced theirs, they swore they were not that bad, but upon removal they could see how bad it was.

Not to mention just general rubber degradation over time, rubber stiffens and breaks down. Stiffer rubber = more resonance and vibration transfer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom