ROTW: Marmaduke HJ61 (1 Viewer)

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I am SUPER DUPER happy with these! :D

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Cut to 36" with a total adjustable eye-eye length of 42"-45.5"
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Here is the difference between 2" .25" wall DOM and 2.25" .375 wall DOM. Most likely over kill but because the truck is so heavy I didn't want to chance it.
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Evo end fits nice. Bought the wrong balls...My Filthy balls should be here next week:
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poly bushing for the axle side. Since this isn't going to be a flex monster (12" coil overs) I think these might be nice for on the road. Easily changed out if needed.
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Putting a panhard on a RHD with a 12H-T truck really sucks. I need to take a look at an 81 to see how toyota does it. I got all the leaf spring junk off the axle and have it rolled under the truck... YIKES

These are still with the high steer arms that need to be replaced.


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Hi steer arms have to go. I got another set of 6 lug arms from Luke at 4x4 Labs

Luke Porter and 4x4 Labs is TOP NOTCH

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upper link mocked up. 3.75" of room to get exhaust through. Exactly 5" of up travel and 6" of separation at the axle.

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and mocked up lower link.

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by by tie rod. Hello double ended hydro assist. Need to work out the details and I am ordering up this system. (it won't sit as low as on this truck) Steering from EMF rod ends. Should be here by the end of July!


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Just need to grind off the old shock towers.

I bought a bj74 RHD steering box today to move the box ahead of the arm instead of being behind it.

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and found I have a couple s***ty silicon elbows. Two different styles and both of these kind are failing.

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good bad or other wise these are going to be close to the final numbers from the 3 link calculator.

Looks good I think.

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just a joint comparison.


Aurora, Trail Gear, EMF large (what I am using) and EMF small Frank (holy s*** these are huge)

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Flat pitman arm from Sky Manufacturing. Quality made in the USA piece.
:D
no that s*** China Gear sells. :wink:

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12" 2.5" King Coil over, 12" 2.5" King shock and Fox 4" air bump stops with cans.

:D :D :D

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I can't wait to ride in this when its all done....Looks like its coming along nicely and will be super pimp when done...
 
Thanks all. I hope it is worth all the effort. (and it drives better on the street then the big SOA)

Upgrading a rig is like Christmas time around here... A new package shows up at the door every couple of days. A pair of these really nice stainless steel battery trays showed up this morning. They are beautiful.

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Looks great, going to be a monster!
I have to say though, i think this is my favorite iteration:

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Also, when did mud start putting ads on every pic?
 
Yup, a set of wheel spacers with those split rims makes the tires fill the wheel wells just a little better, and I agree, best looking truck out there IMO.

Problem is it doesn't perform. Spring under catches on everything and the tires... well they're just way to small.

I am hoping to keep the truck low with big tires and keep that subdued look.
 
If you take a look at some of the above pictures it's pretty clear that the steering box is going to become an issue with any sizable CO. My first thought was to use a RHD BJ74 box on the that sits WAY forward on the outside of the frame. It has an arm that points backwards. Two problems arose when I finally got the box and mocked it up.

1) the front body mounts was going to be in the way. Not a big issue as I could fangle up a new mount of some sort. The 2" body lift I have would be a must for this.
2) The show stopper was that the tire was going to rub the box at full lock. Not going to work.

The second idea was to use a LHD 60 series box on the inside of the frame. With a regular 60 pitman arm this was going to mean moving the motor mount to get enough room for it to fit. Not easy (not really that hard) but doable. The other thing that I hadn't considered is that going back to regular 6 bolt steering arms also places my drag link out further to the front of the truck then what I originally had. This was a good thing as it let me move my box forward. I found a Sky flat pitman arm that is about 1/2 shorter and it looks like I can get the box to squeeze in just behind the motor mount.

I will have to relocate the frame cross member stiffener on this side.

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Here's one of three boxes I tapped and rebuilt for hydro assist today. I dropped the balls on the first one by accident but after seeing how much sludge was built up on the inside I did it to all three. Not a hard job once you figure out how to get them back in.

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Well technically only two got tapped. The tap broke and I couldn't find another one in town.

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Here's the box and pitman arm I plan on using.

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And here is a picture of a great tool that I finally broke out of the package to try and I LOVE it. It's a Drill Dr. 350x. I should have gotten the bigger one to do larger then 1/2 bits.

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did you ever considered going full hydro .?

Orbitals are getting better and better .. load sensing, return to center etc ..
 
I would LOVE to go full hydro and have no issue with doing it, unfortunately our local (and I am sure other jurisdiction) need to see a mechanical connection.

This rig needs to be able to stay on the street and pass our provincial safety inspections.
 
Just a quick bump. Still waiting on steering components before I finalize the placement of the axle but I did have a few other goodies show up:

I am finally going to get all my electrical in order. I have a bunch of switches from http://www.otrattw.com on order and I purchased the right tools to do the job. The guy on the left is for 12g and bigger and is an 8 ton hydraulic. It's a MIC-TOOLS off of ebay. Goes up to 4/0 I think. Work REALLY well on the 4g and 2g so far.

The one on the right is for weather pack, standard ends ect. It's a ratchet style with interchangeable heads. Pro tools on sale at PA. Works GREAT.

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Got this for permanent dash install to run some handheld peripherals. Appears to be GREAT quality once again from Blue Sea. Notice the 24V and the high amp rating.

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