ROTM- klinetime574

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Yeah might have a bit of blowby.

I wouldn't worry about it unless you start hearing expensive mechanical noises.

I would also reconsider selling that 3FE head.
 
cruisermatt said:
I would also reconsider selling that 3FE head.
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Yeah, It hasn't exactly flown off the shelf though lol.

I don't think there is anything to worry about majorly. I'll do another valve adjustment soon. Just put new spark plugs and fuel filter on it last night. Seemed mo' betta with the new plugs.
 
yeah know the feeling about the oil disappearing but mine I have a small leak but much more disappears than what I would have thought with the leak. I smoke on start-up and can see slight smoke in the right light. I also found metal in my last oil change so either rings are scraping the cylinder walls or bearing stuff (thinking rings). Working on spreadsheet for the V8 swap and gathering info for plan...
 
gregnash said:
yeah know the feeling about the oil disappearing but mine I have a small leak but much more disappears than what I would have thought with the leak. I smoke on start-up and can see slight smoke in the right light. I also found metal in my last oil change so either rings are scraping the cylinder walls or bearing stuff (thinking rings). Working on spreadsheet for the V8 swap and gathering info for plan...
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Yeah. I have read in your thread a little bit. You have gone really in-depth. Good work. Next oil change I'll inspect the oil. Probably do that in a 1,000 miles or so.
 
Yeah since I drive mine so varied I just change every 4 months regardless of mileage. Saw a nifty trick to help with the identifying metal in the oil. Take a small bit and put on the inside of a pickle jar lid, the one with the white iridescent inside. Should help show some things up. I just noticed mine as it got caught in the bottom of my large oil funnel hike I was transferring to a bottle from my pan. Hat I where I found the couple millimeter long pieces of metal (pigtails).

Now I have to decide the engine..... Take the risk on a salvage yard pull they say is good or pay the extra money to someone like BD Turnkey.
 
Many thanks fellas. I'm out in the garage working on the 60. Got this new Yeti 30oz tumbler. Had to decorate it (of course) with a sticker from @jjstahl3

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:cheers:
 
I've been working on this thing. Was crawling around under the truck the other week and noticed a leaky pinion seal on the rear diff. Little bit of play at the flange.

Now that I think about it I was hearing more whine than I used to. Thought it could be the gear oil in the transmission/ transfer case so I put some Sta-Lube 85W90 GL4 in them. Drove it again. Still whining a little bit with a drip from the pinion seal.

Debated 4.11's but decided against them for now. Ordered a master set up kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Carrier bearings, pinion bearings, seal, shims, etc. Also got some wheel bearings and seals for the axle.

Pulled the diff and got the help of a friend to service it. We did the best we could to set drive/coast patterns. These gears have some miles on them with probably not enough oil changes done.

So now tonight I pulled the empty axle housing from the truck. Will clean and hopefully paint tomorrow. Rear brakes are in good shape.

Side note: Took me a while to figure out those dang star wheels. Easy to tighten but hard to loosen if you haven't been in there a while. Use two screwdrivers, one to push the arm out and the other to turn the wheel. You can't see the arm but get your screwdriver on the star wheel and then the other just to the side of that with a downward angle. You'll feel a spring when pressure is applied if you are on the arm. You can then loosen the wheel which pulls the shoes in.

Anyway how about some pics :)

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^ Notice that rare FWD conversion :hillbilly:

Oh and guys it's important to remember to start your night correctly

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Wasn't too shabby
 
Did a few things tonight.

• Cleaned the axle in preparation for paint. Cleaned gasket surfaces for differential and cover. Also wire brush everywhere.
• Removed the old wheel bearings and seals. (Used a puller rented from O'Reilly's.)
• Installed new wheel bearings and seals.

I was originally planning on painting as much as I could, but what really needs it the most is the axle tube. And then this way I don't have to disassemble the rear brakes (well, any more than I already have lol).

Was hoping to be further along but I had bowling league last night and then a nail in a tire on my Corolla.

Pictures...

Clean-ish axle housing. I spy old bearings!

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New bearing and seal

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The puller I used. Have to rent a slide hammer 67031 and the rear axle bearing puller 67035. I just put the mid sized puller in behind the bearing and pulled them at the same time. They get the job done.

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And lastly... This wire brush. A great one. Really. And best of all. $1.88 at Walmart. 50mm socket (aka bearing installer) and Leatherman used for size reference. This was in the aisle with socket wrenches and stuff, I believe. Product is made by Walmart in Alabama IIRC

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Hope to have more updates tomorrow night.

:cheers:
 
...Factory? Why would he have aftermarket spring perches?
 
sk8salomon said:
lookin' good man, what spring perches are those?
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Just factory on this thing. In one of the photos you can see a small bracket with two bolt holes, this was not being used. Looks like a mount for a rear LSPV which FJ60's did not have (thank you Mr. Toyoda for leaving that out)

I also forgot to mention.... My 1984 rear differential does not use a crush sleeve. My friend said that he hasn't seen many like that. I wonder what the deal is there. Like what years had them and what did not.
 
I thought 60's did have crush sleeves and 62's had solid spacers. Odd.
 
cruisermatt said:
I thought 60's did have crush sleeves and 62's had solid spacers. Odd.
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Yeah. The Ring and Pinion Install Kit that I got from Cruiser Outfitters included the crush sleeve, shims, bearings, seal, marker paint, nut, etc. That covers the 40/55/60 so I'm sure there are lots of differences there.
 
If you think you'll be in there again pick up a solid spacer.
 
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