Roof Rack Mounted Lighting Options/Configurations?

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Another vote for Slee.
Slee's wiring job on my dual battery system is so clean...it's as though there are no extra cables under the hood! They really know how to route stuff...
 
So how many wires should I run up to the rack for lighting? I'm considering 3 switched circuits and a ground. 1 300W light bar, 2 50w Scene circuits.

Light bar forward - 14ga?
Scene light rear - 16ga?
Scene light sides - 16ga?
Single ground - 12ga?

I want to use the windshield side channel, will four wires (1 12ga, 1 14ga, 2 16ga) fit?
 
So how many wires should I run up to the rack for lighting? I'm considering 3 switched circuits and a ground. 1 300W light bar, 2 50w Scene circuits.

Light bar forward - 14ga?
Scene light rear - 16ga?
Scene light sides - 16ga?
Single ground - 12ga?

I want to use the windshield side channel, will four wires (1 12ga, 1 14ga, 2 16ga) fit?
You need to determine amps per light then determine distance/length of each wire needed to determine gauge of wire. I don't know how many you can fit on windshield side channel. Found this chart while I was planning my cable runs..... Good luck

IMG_0056.webp
 
I have a somewhat related question - what is a quality brand/source of wiring, shrink wrap, etc?

Would it be best to visit the local West Marine, or are there good quality options on Amazon?
 
great q.

was looking at silicone sheath single at Amazon, but haven’t committed to it yet. Would love to find a multi gauge sheathed 4 in 1, but haven’t yet found it. being able to flatten the package using separate wires might help it fit under the molding better, but does come at the cost of multiple thicker sheaths. Probably need to pull up,the molding and see how much space there is
 
I was able to get 2 pair of 14ga in a 3/8" corrugated flex tube (non-split loom), which fits into the window channel. I don't think 1/2" will fit. You can run one on either side of the window, so 8 wires total - after that you'll need to be creative. I considered a common ground but ultimately decided against it for now. My preference for wire is GPT as it resists breaking down due to contact with oils etc.

For wiring use weatherpak or DT connectors so you can easily disconnect the light bars/accessories without needing to remove the wiring. I did wrap with 3M Super88 but I don't think it's really necessary as DT connectors are designed for use in vehicles where they're likely to get very wet.
 
People seem to run wires up along the window trim in the front, or through the rear hatch and along the rail channel.

I plan to run the power and ground wires for my rack mounted lightbar along the side of the windshield, tucked under the trim, to my switchpros unit under the hood.
 
being able to flatten the package using separate wires might help it fit under the molding better, but does come at the cost of multiple thicker sheaths. Probably need to pull up,the molding and see how much space there is
Most people running wires along the windshield do as @linuxgod did, on the outside of the trim and tucked into the little channel in the trim piece. You can run wires under the trim but it’s a lot (A LOT) more work and you’re limited to two 14awg, maybe 12awg wires. If you put your wires inside vinyl type tubing, it barely visible in the channel of the trim piece.
 
Most people running wires along the windshield do as @linuxgod did, on the outside of the trim and tucked into the little channel in the trim piece. You can run wires under the trim but it’s a lot (A LOT) more work and you’re limited to two 14awg, maybe 12awg wires. If you put your wires inside vinyl type tubing, it barely visible in the channel of the trim piece.

How does it stay secure? Does the trim hold it in place?

If anybody has a couple of pics of this, I'd be interested to see it.
 
How does it stay secure? Does the trim hold it in place?

If anybody has a couple of pics of this, I'd be interested to see it.
I ran some RTV black on the wire loom when I stuffed it into the channel. That has held up for the last 3 years/40k miles, particularly since the 3/8" loom is already a reasonably tight fit into the channel
 
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