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- #401
thanks I was pulling my trailer home yesterday when the opportunity presented itself I always enjoy driving on that stretch of road and the lighting was just perfect so I pulled over and took a couple pictures
Build Roma's 78 fj40 gets a refurb
- Thread starter roma042987
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thanks I was pulling my trailer home yesterday when the opportunity presented itself I always enjoy driving on that stretch of road and the lighting was just perfect so I pulled over and took a couple pictures
The 40 and the trees - kinda looks like a period photo - takes me back to the good old days...
I agree with the previous posts, the 40 and the location make for a great picture.
Saturday, my wife and I (son and daughter also) took a drive to the coast (Newport) via Hy 20 to spend the day with her Mom, stepfather, and a stepsister that she had never met before. There is about 15 to 20 miles of which is a similar type road, only with much less road shoulder. The very crooked road and slower pace, creek along side the road, and deciduous trees hanging over the road make for a very beautiful area.
Don
this is a great thread! ive been a little distrcted with "life" (all good stuff) and have not been on in a while. Heres mine..
- Thread starter
- #405
Thanks for reading. That's a clean looking rig you got there.
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- #406
I guess i could post a quick update. I'm rebuilding the full float axle I picked up for it along with a matching one for a friend. My axle came from an 83 Australian bj42 so it has the parking brake provision and single wheel cylinders on each side. Here are the axles coming apart. I welded a massive 3/8 plate to the back of the housing to protect the ring gear in case I back into a rock in some remote locale.
My axle housing unfortunately had the brake line junction and breather hose on the wrong side for my left hand drive truck so prior to turning the axles into the sand blaster I cut a 10mm×1.25 bolt down and cut a small slot into one end of it. I then screwed that into the hole that housed the brake line junction/ breather and welded it up.
Here they are after sand blasting
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- Thread starter
- #407
here they are sand blasted and tucker spent a few hours acid etching them prior to applying two coats of por15. On his axle we welded/repaired his elongated spring perch holes as well but that's for his thread. His axle came from a aussie 45 but it had the breather on the correct side (passenger side for US market) as well as two brackets for a sway bar that will not be used. On mine I also drilled and tapped the new breather hole and finish welded all the factory bracketry that wasn't fully welded.
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- Thread starter
- #408
View attachment 1167719
since the axle is fully apart at this point I decided it would be the perfect time to install a locker. Im personally not fond of the arb lockers just because I don't want to have to rely on an air supply so my second choice was a harropp elocker which have just became available stateside. However after talking to Alberto he reminded me that an 80 series elocker will fit the full float 40 housings so my search began. Thanks to another mud member I drove over to Atlanta and picked up this elocker axle. It had a leaky pinion seal so I anticipated replacing that but when I pulled the third out of the housing I found some rust inside. Since i'll be setting it up with a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve I also made the call to pull the carrier and replace both pinion bearings for proper measure and get the remainder of the rust off the carrier and ring gear.
If you've ever worked on a third member you know how awkward and heavy they are to manage so I welded up this jig to make life a little easier.
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- Thread starter
- #409
all of the bearings are actually in good shape on this third so the carrier bearings will be reused and pinion bearings are only being replaced just because im doing the solid spacer set up.
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- Thread starter
- #410
using the 80 series locked third member gasket as a template I marked my housing where I need to clearance it for the factory Toyota locker arm. Ten minutes with a carbide burr on a die grinder and it looks just like factory. I also removed the longer studs from the 80 housing and installed them on my 40 housing. Its important to put fipg or your preferred gasket material (I use hondabond) onto the threads of the studs where they screw into the housing.
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How are you going to actuate the elocker? Apologies if I missed that somewhere.
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- #412
I sold the actuator motor and will be installing the Chilkat design cable conversion have yet to purchase it though, maybe next week.
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Looking forwards to see how you make use of the cable shifter. Will you be using the Chilcat provided shifter or something more OEM-looking?
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- #414
Yeah I'll use the one that comes with the kit. This rig is far from oem so doesn't bother me too much having an extra lever. I'd classify it more as "purpose built"
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- #415
new bearings for the pinion shaft. I like to cut a slit in the old outer races and use them to drive the new races in. i cleaned all of the surface rust off of the carrier as well. Will be reusing the carrier bearings.
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- #416
I used a nitro gear solid pinion spacer on the pinion shaft instead of a crush sleeve for ease of future maintenance. Grease was applied to the spring of the new oem pinion seal just as a precautionary measure to keep it in place while the seal is being installed also a light coat of hondabond sealant to the housing before the seal was driven in. I set the preload to 18in lbs for the pinion. New pinion nut with a good stake to keep it from going anywhere.
I had originally purchased a new washer for the pinion nut but apparently pinion nut has been superceded to one that is now flanged so a washer is no longer used.
Carrier is put back in and bearing caps torqued to 70lbs i used a clicker torque wrench and then double checked with a beam type as well. Lastly Prussian compound to double check the pinion depth hasn't changed. Contact is good.
I had originally purchased a new washer for the pinion nut but apparently pinion nut has been superceded to one that is now flanged so a washer is no longer used.
Carrier is put back in and bearing caps torqued to 70lbs i used a clicker torque wrench and then double checked with a beam type as well. Lastly Prussian compound to double check the pinion depth hasn't changed. Contact is good.
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Lookin' good! It's almost time to ride that rascal!!!
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- #418
two shiny brand new backing plates directly from japan. Rebuild kit from Kurt with koyo bearings. New aisin wheel cylinders, wagner hardware kit for the drums and replated hardware from three different axles at my disposal 
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- #419
decided on some brand new hardware for the wheel cylinders and changed the diff drain plug to hex style to make removal easier in case rock rash encroaches on the plug.
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- #420
All new parts from Toyota to rebuild the bell cranks. Only the arms are reused and they were plated along with the nut and bolt adjusters on the arms. New springs, pins, clips, blocks, and boots. I used a very generous amount of anti seize to ward off any dissimilar metal corrosion between the aluminum blocks and steel arms and pins which is a very common problem with these parts.
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