Rolands Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Calgary, AB, CAN
After flying to another city with my brother in law I picked up my dream car. A relatively stock (with the exception of sitting on 35’s with a SOA setup and a webber carb) 1978 FJ40 Landcruiser. After checking with the PO that it would make it through the mountains home we decided to drive the vehicle back.
View media item 68141After a few refuelings and a liter of oil per stop the weather started to turn. We continued to press on as the snow continued to fall. We were after all living life in the slow lane driving at speeds between 50 and 70km/h. About 5.5 hours into our expected 13 hour journey we hit some black ice and went into the ditch at 50km/h and rolled 1.5 times. We exited through a gap between the windshield and the roof and assessed ourselves. I had a scratch on my hand and glass under my fingernail. My brother in law, a scratch on his hand and a growing goose egg on his head overall we were fine considering what just happened. While waiting on the side of the road in the falling snow we decided we would name the vehicle Roland as a subtle reminder to our first adventure.
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Hindsight being 20/20 both my brother in law and I understand there were multiple points of this trip that we should have made safety checks. Things that will no doubt be in place on our next outing. While some people spend thousands on vacations only to have photos and memories. I’ve spent thousands have photos memories and 3500lbs of metal in my garage. Something that will lead to more photos, memories and likely thousands more spent.
 
Bummer. Can't say much else.
 
How long ago did this happen?

Any mechanical suspects? Low speed solely due to weather? Or lack of motive power pushing those tires, or maybe some SOA enhanced death wobble?

Trying to insert some tech here in an otherwise chat thread.
 
How long ago did this happen?

Any mechanical suspects? Low speed solely due to weather? Or lack of motive power pushing those tires, or maybe some SOA enhanced death wobble?

Trying to insert some tech here in an otherwise chat thread.

This happened Late November. Life has been happening ever since and I haven't really had the chance to to work on it with the exception of one Sunday afternoon which I'll post about shortly.

We were able to cruise comfortably at 80-85 km/h. The SOA death wobble was terrifying at 95km/h so we kept the speed down. We were slower through the mountains due to the weather conditions. In terms of mechanical issues we were chewing through about 25 liters of fuel per 100km and a liter of oil. I know the 2F can be thirsty but the liter of oil was concerning. Not entirely sure where the source is leaking but the drivers side near the firewall looks to be sprayed with oil. (I'll post some photos this weekend)

Regarding the SOA death wobble. Long term i'd still like to run 35's would you recommend going back to SUA with a lift or is there something that can be done with the SOA?

Thanks!
 
Dang, the past few months have been brutal on FJ40s. :eek:
2 posts about this in one week, be careful out there people.
Glad I park mine all Winter. Hope you're able to fix it. :cheers:

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I thought I'd add a few more photos and post about some of the work I was able to do with a few friends last week. I think this is going to be a slow and steady process.

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So begins the project. I’ll start my disclaimer here. I am by no means a mechanic. I have very little experience working on cars and would classify myself as a total noob.


We had limited time to work on the vehicle and thought it would be a good idea to start by checking to see if the frame was still straight. After getting the frame up on jack stands and completing a few measurement we decided the frame is in fact still straight. We’ve now had a chance to really review the damage while most of it is cosmetic there are a few things that have come to fruition. If there’s a point where two pieces join and there’s liquid inside it leaks. The driver side leaf spring is broken and disconnected from the vehicle and will need to be replaced.


My end goal for this project is a relatively nice daily driver that I’m not afraid to take out into the bush and get a little pin striping done.


We started by removing the doors and upper side panels. Amazingly some of the glass made it through the accident. (The tow truck driver/wind unintentionally removed the fiberglass roof on the tow back to the yard. It’s now likely in a ditch somewhere in BC)


The drivers side door came off relatively easily and we only had to fight with the tire carrier to remove it. This took most of our time and we were unable to get the upper side panels off. All of the fasteners on the drivers side have been removed so this should be fairly easy the next time we work on it.
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Noob question of the day:

Once all of the damaged parts are removed (I’ll keep them all until the restoration is complete) where’s the best place to start? Some mechanical items need to be replaced for safety purposes and the body will defiantly need some work. I’d prefer not to do a frame off restoration at this point.
 
Wow, this certainly is a project ? I would have bet that the frame was bent somewhere .
 
Start with steering and brakes. Because the firewall is designed to ‘float’ I’d change the coupler on the steering box as a matter of course.

Check all brake lines and hoses thoroughly. Tow trucks and wreckers routinely snag lines with the cable hook.

Replace both front springs and check to see WMS is the same distance from the outside of the frame side to side. Then check that the centerlines match from front to back on both sides. Finally, see that the front shackle angles match.
 
Sorry for your loss...

The upside... after you’ve brought it back, you’ll know how to handle just about anything that comes up.

To build on what Mark suggested, regarding brake lines and hoses, make sure the fuel tank and all associated fuel lines are intact.
 
After that, check front and rear motor mounts, places where the wiring could have gotten pinched and then unpinched while the body was flexing.

Moving on to the tub, check that the A pillar is parallel to the B pillar. They’re probably not at this point, but that’s not necessarily a deal killer. @tlaporte left A pillar was severely compromised in an accident, but with an extra hand from @dusty66 I was able to fit it open, straighten and weld it shut again.
 

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