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Cheers
Build Rocklander 77-series build
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Finally got these today too (x4) so I am going to start setting up the rear axle this weekend!
Cheers
Cheers
Really like them, super nice setup!!Man these are soooooo good!!
View attachment 4119337
View attachment 4119338
View attachment 4119339
Cheers
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Got the fab bay in the shop for the weekend. Oh ya, time to start this build!! 
Cheers
Cheers
Got the fab bay in the shop for the weekend. Oh ya, time to start this build!!
View attachment 4119574
Cheers
Nice. Thats why our personal projects take so long! Too many trucks in the shop!
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Should be easy if I don’t slack.
Take this…..
And stuff it under here!
Cheers
Take this…..
And stuff it under here!
Cheers
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Leaf spring sliders, remember I am not using shackles. These will be used in place of the shackles. Also rear axle side shock mounts.
Cheers
Cheers
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I truly dislike educating other shops but I do also truly enjoy helping the average diy builder. Conundrum on a public forum I suppose! 
Here is side to side level before I really did anything.
Here it is after leveling.
When I learned how to do this kind of thing I was taught level the vehicle to the planet
not the shop floor or whatever. I was also taught to set it up to ride height before starting build/fab. I am doing that right now.
How am I determining ride height. Well I plan to run 37-38’s. I know from experience fitting much more than a 10” shock in the rear will have two results or options.
#1 cut floor and bring shock up into the body. No thanks, this isn’t that kind of build.
#2 mount shock below axle housing allowing at least a 10” shock to be fitted. I will have to angle the shock even to just fit a 10” to the rear which is not ideal. The general rule for suspension is keep it as vertical as possible and that includes shocks. Of course all kinds of variables and variations but that is the best simple rule to follow if you can. This also includes keeping everything as wide as possible too meaning spring and shocks (coilovers, coil springs, leaves or whatever) should be mounted as outboard of the frame an axles as much as you can. Also I want as much up-travel as possible with a large tire and a 10+” shock. 5” up and 5” down would be center right? I won’t be able to achieve that without a really really low hanging shock. So for me the minimum will be 3” up and 7” down. If I am can achieve better I will, a 12” rear shock would be ideal to me.
Front no problem fitting a 12” shock since it can protrude up into the engine bay unlike the rear which I don’t want to poke up through the body.
This results in the best performance on and off-road. These are very basic principles I think most people can understand and follow with just some common sense and a bit of information. Keep in mind that designing a suspension that is as low as possible is ideal too for the obvious stability purposes.
I am resto-mod guy so I am always trying to improve upon what Toyota engineers did. If you think that is not possible this build thread is not for you!!
Cheers
Here is side to side level before I really did anything.
Here it is after leveling.
When I learned how to do this kind of thing I was taught level the vehicle to the planet
not the shop floor or whatever. I was also taught to set it up to ride height before starting build/fab. I am doing that right now.How am I determining ride height. Well I plan to run 37-38’s. I know from experience fitting much more than a 10” shock in the rear will have two results or options.
#1 cut floor and bring shock up into the body. No thanks, this isn’t that kind of build.
#2 mount shock below axle housing allowing at least a 10” shock to be fitted. I will have to angle the shock even to just fit a 10” to the rear which is not ideal. The general rule for suspension is keep it as vertical as possible and that includes shocks. Of course all kinds of variables and variations but that is the best simple rule to follow if you can. This also includes keeping everything as wide as possible too meaning spring and shocks (coilovers, coil springs, leaves or whatever) should be mounted as outboard of the frame an axles as much as you can. Also I want as much up-travel as possible with a large tire and a 10+” shock. 5” up and 5” down would be center right? I won’t be able to achieve that without a really really low hanging shock. So for me the minimum will be 3” up and 7” down. If I am can achieve better I will, a 12” rear shock would be ideal to me.
Front no problem fitting a 12” shock since it can protrude up into the engine bay unlike the rear which I don’t want to poke up through the body.
This results in the best performance on and off-road. These are very basic principles I think most people can understand and follow with just some common sense and a bit of information. Keep in mind that designing a suspension that is as low as possible is ideal too for the obvious stability purposes.
I am resto-mod guy so I am always trying to improve upon what Toyota engineers did. If you think that is not possible this build thread is not for you!!
Cheers
Last edited:
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Got sidetracked with my shop-neighbor for an hour or two but still down here! The objective for tonight was to simply get the OG axle pulled and figure out my desired numbers. See if I still get that done.
By no means do I mean any disrespect to the previous owners of this Cruiser. I don’t even really know who they are or what they think is good. I am going to tell it like it is in this build thread though as I see it.
Sooooooo, these absolutely ASS 2” wheel spacers are done. The proper width axle and wheel with proper-desired backspacing is the correct way to build a Cruiser.
Cheers
By no means do I mean any disrespect to the previous owners of this Cruiser. I don’t even really know who they are or what they think is good. I am going to tell it like it is in this build thread though as I see it.
Sooooooo, these absolutely ASS 2” wheel spacers are done. The proper width axle and wheel with proper-desired backspacing is the correct way to build a Cruiser.
Cheers
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And on the point of improving Toyota design, this is absolutely s*** designing-engineering, especially if any sort of corrosion is involved at all. Even the Toyota worshipers should admit this!! 
So close to busting this one, I beat it though and it came loose because I have dealt with this dozens of times and know what I am doing. The average Joe though this one would have kicked your ass!
Cheers
So close to busting this one, I beat it though and it came loose because I have dealt with this dozens of times and know what I am doing. The average Joe though this one would have kicked your ass!
Cheers
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Well being wider than stock I will have many more choices!! More to come on this as the build unfolds.
I may not be an “influencer” (
) but I certainly enjoy sharing a build!Cheers
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Not a fan in the slightest!! 
*Edit: not only that this s*** is SAE hardware. How many of you in particular Land Cruiser professional mechanics have gotten under the Cruiser with your metric tools only to say…..the **** you thinking??
Metric people, use metric hardware!!!!
Cheers
*Edit: not only that this s*** is SAE hardware. How many of you in particular Land Cruiser professional mechanics have gotten under the Cruiser with your metric tools only to say…..the **** you thinking??
Metric people, use metric hardware!!!!
Cheers
Last edited:
Just a thought...
If you're widening axles, or already have them wide enough, running high offset (+40, +50) would allow your tire to move in a smaller radius, resulting in more fender clearance. This may be obvious to you, but its somewhat unconventional, so I though I'd mention it. No disputing it limits wheel options, but I think it increases performance, so maybe worth it.
Maybe swap to 5x150 hubs and run Rockwarriors on the Rocklander
If you're widening axles, or already have them wide enough, running high offset (+40, +50) would allow your tire to move in a smaller radius, resulting in more fender clearance. This may be obvious to you, but its somewhat unconventional, so I though I'd mention it. No disputing it limits wheel options, but I think it increases performance, so maybe worth it.
Maybe swap to 5x150 hubs and run Rockwarriors on the Rocklander
Part of my thinking is that 70 series wheel wells don't seem that big (compared to an 80 at least)
aftermarket steering wheel is a huge red flag for me, tasteless AND willing to funk with shiit...greatDespite the steering issues, I would say you’re pretty lucky to just have an original steering wheel. That seems to be a rare commodity on a lot of JDM Cruisers.
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Ok buddy, I guess I never got the invite to that club.
In my club we are laughing! Sooooooo, let’s fix this right!
Cheers
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I was certainly having a bitch and moan session last night!
Moved on and got the crappy old parts removed. That did take a bit of effort as hardware was fairly rusty. I am procrastinating at the moment on cutting off the rear shackle hangers from the frame.
Rear axle prepped.
This will make a great axle for somebody with a 40-series!
All that is left before I set the axle up under here is to cut the shackle hangers off the frame.
Cheers
Moved on and got the crappy old parts removed. That did take a bit of effort as hardware was fairly rusty. I am procrastinating at the moment on cutting off the rear shackle hangers from the frame.
Rear axle prepped.
This will make a great axle for somebody with a 40-series!
All that is left before I set the axle up under here is to cut the shackle hangers off the frame.
Cheers
I think the only thing ive seen slider boxes on are clapped out XJ's. A bit surprised to see them on mud lol.