Build Rocklander 77-series build

[RHINO]

on the front, are you leaving the standard shackle forward design or doing a reversal?

 

[RHINO]

dumb question of the day, whats riding on the slider box itself when things are sliding

the white squares, its a wear item to be replaced as needed.


Edit:. Sorry Ian, your thread, i shouldnt overstep

 

[SNLC]

on the front, are you leaving the standard shackle forward design or doing a reversal?

Haven’t decided.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

the white squares, its a wear item to be replaced as needed.


Edit:. Sorry Ian, your thread, i shouldnt overstep

No worries!!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I think in the rear it will droop way more than the shocks I can fit will handle. I am expecting 10” rear shocks.

Anyways if needed I will run limit straps.

Cheers

 

[RHINO]

I think in the rear it will droop way more than the shocks I can fit will handle. I am expecting 10” rear shocks.

Anyways if needed I will run limit straps.

Cheers

that 10" shock can turn into 14-16" easy enough,,, but you need to make those desicions now

 

[SNLC]

that 10" shock can turn into 14-16" easy enough,,, but you need to make those desicions now

The shock will decide most of it don’t you agree.

At least when a person is chasing flex? The limiting up travel will simply be big rubber into the body. For that matter droop as well, drooped it will move the tire towards the back door or front of the wheel well. That is where I am much more limited for carving up the body without getting to crazy.

I would much rather move the axle back and carve up the rear quarter panel but in these 70-series the fuel tank is behind the rear axle so that will also really limit the ability to push the rear axle back much if any.

But yeah, I will just control up travel as needed with bump stops and droop with limiting straps. I also have the Currie rear sway bar to package in the rear here, wider axle makes that easier too!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Also the rear shock will hang below the axle housing, this is my plan all along.

I will use these on the axle side, behind the housing too, these come from Sky Off-road.

Cheers

 

[RHINO]

The shock will decide most of it don’t you agree.

Cheers

absolutely, but if you change the loaction mounts/orientation you can also manipulate the stroke travel % relative the tire travel, but, you have to make those decisions now, valving? sway bar? ect.ect.

 

[SNLC]

absolutely, but if you change the loaction mounts/orientation you can also manipulate the stroke travel % relative the tire travel, but, you have to make those decisions now, valving? sway bar? ect.ect.

For sure but first I need to get the axle hung under the Cruiser.

And again tire + shock will determine most of it. I can only stuff or even droop a 37-38” tire so much. For the rear I can only do so much with the shock before I have no up travel. It will either be a 10” or 12” but both of those will still hang below the bottom of the axle housing.

I have the same shock already in hand for the front in 12”, which will be easier to fit because the shock tower can extend up into the engine bay.

Cheers

 

[DrRock]

@SNLC what ratio for up and down travel do you typically target?

 

[coldtaco]

For sure but first I need to get the axle hung under the Cruiser.

And again tire + shock will determine most of it. I can only stuff or even droop a 37-38” tire so much. For the rear I can only do so much with the shock before I have no up travel. It will either be a 10” or 12” but both of those will still hang below the bottom of the axle housing.

I have the same shock already in hand for the front in 12”, which will be easier to fit because the shock tower can extend up into the engine bay.

View attachment 4120954

Cheers

is this funky bracket thing same idea as the revolver shackle?

 

[SNLC]

is this funky bracket thing same idea as the revolver shackle?

No not even close.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

@SNLC what ratio for up and down travel do you typically target?

50/50 or 40/60 but I am willing to accept 30/70 if that is all I can get due to clearances.

On this SoA we got pretty close to 50/50,

Build Thread '1967 FJ45LPB resto-mod 1HDFT H55 build'

Nov 22, 2019

New build just showed up at the shop. This is going to be a fun one!

I just looked it over pretty quick, seems pretty much all original. Been painted before, not the best job. Rust, rot and bondo doesn’t seem to terrible.

Transmission is not happy at all nor is the engine. Carb is in bad shape. Brakes barely work but hey it does run and kind of drive!

More to come!

Cheers

• SNLC
• Replies: 623
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

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Cheers

 

[SNLC]

For quick reference for me later!

10” Fox 2.5’s

12” Fox 2.5’s

Cheers

 

[Musafir]

Slow down! We can't keep up..

 

[SNLC]

I may have made a decision here this afternoon concerning the 77. That would be to forget all about ever restoring the body on this Cruiser. The body is really pretty shot from rust. I haven’t posted detailed pictures yet but it is bad, worst than the Troopy Hodgepodge if you followed that body rebuild!

There is hundreds and hundreds of hours replacing rust panels. It has crossed my mind to cut the body into a double cab pickup because the rust is the worst in the rear.

I think what I am deciding is to just not care, rock crawl this thing like no tomorrow and let the body get smashed in that fun! Eventually replace the body with a clean LHD 76-series body or even do something like a single or double cab pickup swapped on the chassis and extend the frame-wheelbase to do it. For roughly $5-15k I can buy a new take off 79-series pickup body. I can probably at some point find a 76-series body in the Middle East or even just buy a rust free-ish 77 in Japan.

Regardless I think I have decided it will be to much work to restore this body. It would make some good content which was the original idea here. There is plenty to do and build though for content!

Cheers

 

[OGBeno]

HELL YEAH!! That's where I am with my 70 as well. Just hammer and enjoy.

 

[SNLC]

HELL YEAH!! That's where I am with my 70 as well. Just hammer and enjoy.

Wait till you see the pics, it is proper f#cked!!

We threw it out already but I pulled a very nasty rag out of one of the holes in the rear sill. There is still one left I think for a picture though!

I have also never seen body sheet metal look like spider webs!!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

The weight on it with the current leaf pack. With current leaf slider location the leaves can slide back 3” for compression. I would say I need to move it back 2” but I think I may tear the leaf packs down to just the main leaves, flex it out and see.

Pinion is not set either because I really didn’t know where these leaf packs were going to be height wise. I am pretty happy with it but I am going to flip one leaf around in the pack.

Cheers