Replacing clutch - while I'm in there... (1 Viewer)

cheezypoof

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 18, 2020
Messages
47
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
'86 with 266k miles. No records that indicate the clutch has ever been replaced. It's slipping in higher gears under load so seems obvious it's time. I plan to go with the Aisin CKT-032 kit. Truck has a 1yr old (aftermarket) master, not sure about the slave but neither are leaking so I wasn't planning on touching those.

Scanning old posts here, it seems the rear main and trans input seals should be replaced. Anything else I should do while the trans is disconnected?

Recommendations on where to buy the seals? I'm new to Mud and not familiar with the vendors or other folks who sell this stuff. Prefer OEM. I found the rear main on several sites but the input seems harder to locate.

Thanks!
 

OSS

Joined
Jun 30, 2017
Messages
3,111
Location
Oblivion
Buy as many parts directly from Toyota as possible. I've never met an aftermarket part that is as good. For clutch parts (disc, bearings, cover and seals) it's really important because you don't want to do this job again.

All you need is the Toyota part number and any Toyota dealer can get you the parts. Online dealers are always cheaper than walk-in dealerships even when adding shipping costs.

The website linked below will show you every part number for every part on your cruiser - with Toyota drawings.
Click the number on the drawing next to the part you're interested in. A red window will pop up showing you the part number.
The numbers on the drawings aren't Toyota part numbers. They're called PNC numbers (I call them drawing numbers).

 

Spike Strip

Midnight Rider
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 22, 2005
Messages
14,977
Location
City of Angels
Pilot bearing (get Toyota only)

Good idea to replace Flywheel bolts and Clutch Pressure plate bolts (Toyota)

Lots of different vendors. Prolly best to ask in your regional local section (Clubhouse section) to see where they buy, if not online.

Personally partznet.com is pretty good. (PA).

With that many miles, I'd replace the clutch slave. OEM aftermarket are not expensive and will save you from being stuck with a blown release cylinder. There's a change in them at 5/85 so make sure you get the right one.

Also I'd replace the rubber hose to to the slave. Or, if you prefer JT Outfitters sells a SS braided replacement for the whole thing, eliminating the section of the line that's steel.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
6,927
Location
East Hampton, CT
4 of this is what they are suggesting you buy from Toyota. I just did all this and bought from my dealer here in CT. But contact your own. The price is what was fromToyota Parts Deal that I gave them to match for me. As you can see they were very accommodating. Added my handwritten list as I see the dealer list isn’t as clear what’s what.


And bought my clutch from RockAuto,

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Last edited:

cheezypoof

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 18, 2020
Messages
47
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Thanks everyone

@NeverGiveUpYota, your list is a big help to confirm what I need! Did the pilot bearing come in your Aisin clutch kit? It says it's included but I read feedback by some buyers that it wasn't.
 

Spike Strip

Midnight Rider
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 22, 2005
Messages
14,977
Location
City of Angels
A pilot bearing will come with the kit but it will be an aftermarket one that is different from the OE Toyota bearing and not as robust. The OE bearing is difficult to find aftermarket. You're better off buying the Aisin Clutch and Pressure plate individually (same as Toyota), then the rest of the stuff from Toyota.

IMPORTANT - Note to test fit the Pilot bearing onto the snout of the trans input shaft. If it's tight, stabbing the trans will be difficult. Use some emery cloth on the tip to make sure it's a slip fit.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
Messages
1,215
Location
Ontario - Canada
You'll have to be the judge on resurfacing the flywheel. If you haven’t thought of this, keep in mind you might not be able to get it done same day.

For the cost of the clutch parts, it’s worth turning the flywheel and doing the job once. That said if it’s worn evenly and doesn’t have heat marks or deposits of clutch disk friction material in it you can get away with leaving it.
 
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
2,826
Location
Charlottesville VA
Um...put a h55f in it while you have it out and rebuild your transfer case.

but really, New throw out bearing, re surface the flywheel, check the pivot point on the fork and the pivot ball for wear, Rear main seal (Toyota only)

Consider pulling the oil pan off, and removing the rear crank bearing cap and PLACING the seal in position instead of trying to tap it in. Read Poser's thread and pics here: Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)



My friend who was a master mechanic used a small ball peen hammer and worked the RMS in tapping it around as he had done a million times before with other seals. Sure enough...it leaked like a sieve and when I had to pull it all apart to take it out I found that the inner lip had torn.

the second go round I was able to inspect the oil sludge on the oil pick up screen and get all the sludge out of the bottom of the oil pan. Getting the oil pan off was not hard but a new gasket is required for the pan.
 

cheezypoof

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 18, 2020
Messages
47
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Um...put a h55f in it while you have it out and rebuild your transfer case.

Man I'd love to. For awhile I was thinking an H55 would be my first big upgrade. Then I started reading the EFI threads... a sniper will come before another gear. But first things first :)

Thanks again everyone for the great advice, I'll be calling my local dealer tomorrow a.m. with a list of parts

Oh, and I do plan on having the flywheel resurfaced by a local shop.
 
Last edited:

Spook50

My daughter likes Stitch
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
6,089
Location
Spokane, WA
Pilot bearing (get Toyota only)

Good idea to replace Flywheel bolts and Clutch Pressure plate bolts (Toyota)

Lots of different vendors. Prolly best to ask in your regional local section (Clubhouse section) to see where they buy, if not online.

Personally partznet.com is pretty good. (PA).

With that many miles, I'd replace the clutch slave. OEM aftermarket are not expensive and will save you from being stuck with a blown release cylinder. There's a change in them at 5/85 so make sure you get the right one.

Also I'd replace the rubber hose to to the slave. Or, if you prefer JT Outfitters sells a SS braided replacement for the whole thing, eliminating the section of the line that's steel.
I just recently put in the SOR stainless clutch hose and bled & adjusted the setup in my 62. Feels much nicer at the pedal. Function as far as I can tell is pretty much identical. Eliminated the possibility that my bit of a hard stop with the shifter going into 3rd is a hydraulic issue, so it helped with that bit of troubleshooting.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom