Removing Horn Pad Screws

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Melloj123

Melloj123

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Houston, TX
I need to restore the steering wheel on my 77 project. Ive had no luck removing the three small phillips heads on the back of the pad. Soaked them and using a very small driver, I cannot get them free. Any reason not to drill off the heads. get the pad off then remove the screws? Any better ideas?
 
Soaked them with what? I like Kroil, re apply several times over a few days. Take an old screwdriver bit in a pair of pliers and heat it to bright cherry red in a propane torch - press it into the screw and let the heat transfer, several treatments might be required for each screw. Try a new really good fitting bit with an impact driver - might try tightening a little first. Hit it with some spray cool to help break the bond. Drilling the heads off should work to - then perhaps more penetrant and vice grips to work back and forth on the stub.
 
The problem with Kroil or heat treating is those screws are pretty long, like an inch and a quarter is my guess. So if you spray the head, that kroil is not going to make it where it needs to go. Same with heat. They are pretty specific too as they have a pointy end to help align them since you are inserting it blind, so if you drill them, you may be hunting for screws.
 
On many occasions I have had modify screws to make a replacement. Turning down heads to fit a recess, using a larger screw to get the proper head, then turning off the treads to get the proper shank - then cutting new threads for the existing hole.

Maybe pull the wheel, so gravity helps if the screw are on the underside.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, none of which are approved by cats.
 
He can't pull the wheel because the nut is under the pad the screws are attached to. He probably could pull the column so he could get better access to the screw heads.

Aren't those screws splayed/angled as they go thru the wheel? Im not sure drilling the heads would be helpful or not, but it might work.
 
If you haven't buggered up the head too much, get a set of the new Vessel Megadora tang-thru screwdrivers. They use a "Cross-point JAWSFIT tip that firmly grips screws to reduce Cam-Out"...I have a set of the Phillips head screwdrivers and they are definitely worth it.

1778632569567.webp
 
GA Architect said:
If you haven't buggered up the head too much, get a set of the new Vessel Megadora tang-thru screwdrivers. They use a "Cross-point JAWSFIT tip that firmly grips screws to reduce Cam-Out"...I have a set of the Phillips head screwdrivers and they are definitely worth it.

View attachment 4139541
Click to expand...
The vessel, which I have, or another brand of J.I.S. screw drivers are worth every penny.
Those screws are angled and a lot longer than you think as @pb4ugo says. And, they are not very big screws so it might be hard to drill the head off.
 
For reference here is what the screws look like. There are a very fine thread.
PXL_20260513_020745876.webp

They go in at an angle.
PXL_20260513_021911495.webp

To soak I would suggest lifting and supporting the axle. Move each screw to the top by moving the steering wheel. Soak the one at the top Let it set a couple minutes so what you are using can run down the thread. Because the screws go in at angle at the top it will be aimed up more than the cruiser. I would also try screwing the screws in a little to break it loose. If you can move it in and out will patience and not forcing it they should come out.
 
Not sure how much room is available but a manual impact driver is my go to for stuck screws. I keep JIS bits for mine. As already suggested and especially if you have already stripped the screw heads, first try the driver in the right hand direction and then change to left hand to remove. I find with screws I can control what’s happening easier with a manual impact driver than my battery powered one.
 
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I bought some good rated JIS 5/16 hex bits on Amoron for my hammer powered impact tool - haven't used them yet.
 
AS shown in the pictures, these screws have a very small head Cant imagine using an impact on them I know I've spent way too much time and still dont have them out. i going to revert to drilling unless someone has had success they can tell me about,
 
My approach to this is, it's broken anyways and there's a very good chance I may have to find a replacement pad. You don't want to F up the wheel. So, try to get it apart as best you can without damaging it or not. I'd probably drill or cut the heads off then pull the pad back a bit and gain access between the pad and wheel and then maybe cut the screws. Or just try to pull it off. I have a couple of pads where the metal in the pads is badly bent from trying to get it off because a couple of screws were stuck. The pad had to come off to get the wheel off. Maybe you have to destroy the pad. I'd consider maybe pulling the column and covers to get better access to the problem. They're not that difficult to remove.
 
The pad is finally off . I got a JIS screw driver today and was able to get two screws out. With those two out i was able to rotate the pad enough that the third screw broke. Pad is undamaged but I will be one screw short. Thanks for everyones suggestions.. The JIs was definitely the trick
 
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