1973Guppie
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how did the wheels hold up in bare aluminum with clearcoat?
refinishing aluminum wheels without paint.
- Thread starter ERG80
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- Thread starter
- #22
The person I sold them to said they're holding up well after all this time and the rears still look like the day she bought them. She said she is still very happy with the finish but the front could use a little help after the "chemical warfare" she put them through cleaning brake dust off. She did a Tundra brake upgrade using Wearever Gold pads from Advanced auto which had excessive dust issues that wouldn't clean off normally. It was so bad advanced replaced the pads with a different set from Wagner.
here they are seven months ago after the new pads were installed:
Has anyone been able to return their rims to gleaming "like new" condition? What process did you use?
I'm open to DIY or professional fixes, but I'm hoping to avoid paint or rattle cans because I doubt they'll be durable. I think the originals were polished and then clear coated, maybe with clear powder coat, right?
Mine look like this. I've got new center caps, the original silver surround over black center, but it makes no sense to put them on these wheels.
I believe it's part number 42611-60090, with a sub of 42611-60091, but I'm not sure, and 42611-60081 is also in contention. Does anyone know the difference between those three part numbers? This is for a Dec 1994 manufacture date.
Thanks...
I'm open to DIY or professional fixes, but I'm hoping to avoid paint or rattle cans because I doubt they'll be durable. I think the originals were polished and then clear coated, maybe with clear powder coat, right?
Mine look like this. I've got new center caps, the original silver surround over black center, but it makes no sense to put them on these wheels.
I believe it's part number 42611-60090, with a sub of 42611-60091, but I'm not sure, and 42611-60081 is also in contention. Does anyone know the difference between those three part numbers? This is for a Dec 1994 manufacture date.
Thanks...
I was reading recently that they have different lug nuts, depending on the year. '94 would be the earlier style without the shank style nuts, so the openings must be slightly different. Good question about cleaning them up. I'm also interested after picking up a set of these, but from a later fzj80.
Since you’re in San Diego, ask your local America’s Tire store who we (Discount Tire Co.) recommend in that area to referb. your wheels. I got a quote about a year ago for ~$750 for my 5 LX wheels here in the Phx metro area. They repaint the recessed areas and re-machine the face and clear coat. That particular wheel in the pic may be a bit too pitted to get perfect again… dunno.
I've been eyeballing American Factory Wheel just outside San Diego, and plan on going in for an estimate. I'm trying to get a bit more informed before going in and making decisions. Compared to images from their website, my "before" wheels are in fine shape.
I think most of the discoloration is shallow and it looks like it will come off. There are a few rock gouges they could fix, or I could easily live with.
My best guess is that AFW will recommend light machining or heavy polishing, and then a clear powder coat. Your pricing info is helpful for reference.
Had the wheels blasted and then powder coated graphite metallic gray. Then they machined the surface leaving only the recessed areas gray. Last was a layer of clear powder coat over the whole wheel. $150/wheel.
Is that a 96+?
I don't think my '94 ever had those recessed areas painted, and my center caps have the dark centers. I think that may be a difference between some of the wheel part numbers I'm looking at.
That's the thread I've been looking for. THANKS!
It's shank vs. acorn lug nuts. later wheels have the steel inserts. What is the correct lug nut to use on a 95 fzj80?? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-is-the-correct-lug-nut-to-use-on-a-95-fzj80.474462/
I saw your thread and I'd definitely be a customer if it wasn't for the 2600 mile shipping.
1997
