- Location
- United States
Ok. Kinda testing the waters here. The subject of rear discs for full floats keeps coming up and I'm in on the chat about it and everytime it comes up, I tell people that want a FF rear with disc brakes--AND a park brake--under a 60 series, they should just get an 80 series rear and stick it under there (ya it's a little wider, go to the tech section if you wanna chat about it). And anyway, wouldn't you know it, I've convinced myself of this as well. So, I'm throwin' this out there to see if anybody is seriously interested in it. So here we go.
Up for sale is a rebuilt/refurbished/reconditioned (whatever you wanna call it) 60 series full float rear end. Was picked up from Spectre in November of 2003. I spent a couple weeks grinding and cleaning the crap outta this sucker (even sand blasted the hubs) and then painted it with Chassis Coat paint that some dude was pimpin' on here a while back. (Thanks Mike, Cody and Jen!) Stuff turned out awesome if you ask me. It was put under my rig in the first of December 2003. So it's been under there one year. I've only driven the truck about 5000 miles or so since. It sat in the garage for 5 of those months, only coming out twice.
So it's got all new bearings and seals. Axle shafts and seal areas are in great shape. Setup for spring over, but could be easily switched back to spring under. It's currently setup with an 80 series electric locking differential (4.10 gearing) and custom shock mounts. The actuator works perfect. Though I've only driven it locked once, I've tested it numerous times.
The only problem with this thing is the the driver's side park brake lever on the backing plate locks up when the park brake is pulled. This can be easily remedied by getting new parts or used parts from a wrecker or possibly just with a little love (I haven't had time to mess with it, just been Cruisin' around without a park brake.) The shoes and drums could probably use servicing as well (the brake parts are from my 1984 stock semi-float rear end). Also, I was going to replace all the studs on the hub where the axle shaft flange mounts cause they're the original ones--I would recommend that you do it as well if you buy it. You can find the studs, cone washers and nuts new from the dealer.
Here's what I paid for the sucker:
$425 for the bare housing with shafts (no brakes, no diff)
$425 for the e-lock diff
$275 for the short side shaft with long splines (new from the dealer)
$100 for the rebuild kit (bearings and seals)
So I paid $1225 just for the main hard parts. Throw in all the brake parts the new OEM diff studs (hey, they're like $2 each!) and all the time I spent and the money for supplies....
So anyway, I'm asking $1200 USD. And I'm not very flexible on the price. (Unless you wanna give me more $$ for it
) You won't find a better deal than this if this is what you're lookin' for... I am willing to sell the axle assembly without the 3rd member or special shaft (but with both stock shafts) for $600 USD.
I've got plenty of pics of the rebuild if you want them. I'll post a few later (they're at home and I'm at work).
Oh ya, I'm in the Salt Lake City, UT area.
PM me or post up and I'll get back to ya.
-Ferg-
Up for sale is a rebuilt/refurbished/reconditioned (whatever you wanna call it) 60 series full float rear end. Was picked up from Spectre in November of 2003. I spent a couple weeks grinding and cleaning the crap outta this sucker (even sand blasted the hubs) and then painted it with Chassis Coat paint that some dude was pimpin' on here a while back. (Thanks Mike, Cody and Jen!) Stuff turned out awesome if you ask me. It was put under my rig in the first of December 2003. So it's been under there one year. I've only driven the truck about 5000 miles or so since. It sat in the garage for 5 of those months, only coming out twice.
So it's got all new bearings and seals. Axle shafts and seal areas are in great shape. Setup for spring over, but could be easily switched back to spring under. It's currently setup with an 80 series electric locking differential (4.10 gearing) and custom shock mounts. The actuator works perfect. Though I've only driven it locked once, I've tested it numerous times.
The only problem with this thing is the the driver's side park brake lever on the backing plate locks up when the park brake is pulled. This can be easily remedied by getting new parts or used parts from a wrecker or possibly just with a little love (I haven't had time to mess with it, just been Cruisin' around without a park brake.) The shoes and drums could probably use servicing as well (the brake parts are from my 1984 stock semi-float rear end). Also, I was going to replace all the studs on the hub where the axle shaft flange mounts cause they're the original ones--I would recommend that you do it as well if you buy it. You can find the studs, cone washers and nuts new from the dealer.
Here's what I paid for the sucker:
$425 for the bare housing with shafts (no brakes, no diff)
$425 for the e-lock diff
$275 for the short side shaft with long splines (new from the dealer)
$100 for the rebuild kit (bearings and seals)
So I paid $1225 just for the main hard parts. Throw in all the brake parts the new OEM diff studs (hey, they're like $2 each!) and all the time I spent and the money for supplies....
So anyway, I'm asking $1200 USD. And I'm not very flexible on the price. (Unless you wanna give me more $$ for it
) You won't find a better deal than this if this is what you're lookin' for... I am willing to sell the axle assembly without the 3rd member or special shaft (but with both stock shafts) for $600 USD.I've got plenty of pics of the rebuild if you want them. I'll post a few later (they're at home and I'm at work).
Oh ya, I'm in the Salt Lake City, UT area.
PM me or post up and I'll get back to ya.
-Ferg-
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) The one all wrapped up is mine when I got it. It was nice and greasy... 
