I have spending time and money on my Ram 3500 and just installed a 5" exhaust and had a shop install the Sherpa Stallion 25K winch.
I installed a 5" Aero 5050XL on the truck and I have a 303XL for the RJ40 so now I have a preview of what it is going to sound like. Seems to have been the right choice for a muffler it has low restriction and has a resonator built in.
The winch is a Sherpa Stallion 25K and wish I would have bought one for the Land Cruiser. The shop said it was heavy duty. I went back and made them put the other screw in to hold the plate.
Not a fan of the paint color but it inside the bumper
I ordered it with a warless remote and if compatible will try to used with the winch on the Land Cruiser.
Used the new winch to pull the Land Cruiser out from the wall today. I like both the synthetic rope and the wireless remote. The wireless remote it rotates the winch in the opposite direction of the the buttons. I called the shop that installed it and they said with the wired remote the rotation is right but not with the wireless remote. Maybe the batteries are in wrong. I reached out to Sherpa Winch to see what they have to say.
I mounted the new clutch slave cylinder and spring
Installed the SS hose from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Very nice hose and is jacketed.
Mounted the new booster and master cylinder with the spacer to clear the clutch master cylinder. I bought a coupling nut and some all thread but the length was good with any extension. I found the proportioning valve but need to fabricate a mount to install on the booster.
Hooked up the pedals to the yokes of the clutch and brake rods. I bought new springs and pins but the pin worked for the clutch pedal but not the brake pedal. I reused the old pin on the brake and the new springs don't have the same resistance as the old springs and the clutch pedal was floppy so I reused the that old spring and may use the old spring on the brake pedal also.
Replaced this spring with the original and it tightened it up a lot. Both pedals need to be adjusted and right now the pedals are not the same distance from the floor but are both against the stops. I also stabbed my index finger with the spring on the clutch when it snapped back before it hooked on the pin.
Today I talked to Redline that I bought the Big Brake Kit from along with the MC and booster with proportioning valve. Since I did not get the mounting bracket they now show in there photos they will provide one.
We talked about getting the right plug for the sensor on the tank of the MC and they think they can help me out with that.
I also want braided SS hoses to connect the proportioning valve and the front brake circuit to the tee on the frame. I sent them photos of what I have now and information on the hose I ran from the clutch MC down to the SC and want something comprisable.
Will have another phone call tomorrow and see what we can come up with.
I found I had a 10mm ID Parker hose good for 300 psi and cut it to length to reach from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. Ran to ACE and got two hose clamps and 2 cotter pins for the hub nuts on my M1102 trailer so I can do maintenance on the trailer hubs.
When I got the clamp on the vacuum pump the tail was right next to a wiring harness tee for the Cummins so I wrapped it with a ty-wrap.
Used the hose support to support for the vacuum hose.
I went to the Toyota Dealership in Lander, Wyoming to see if they could get me plug for my MC brake lever.
we looked in a box of harness, and tried to find in manual but doesn't seem to be the plug for a FJ80. We opened the hood on a 90 Tundra and pulled the plug and compared to the photo I had it was good. Then pulled a manual for the Tundra and got the part number and the parts department ordered me one.
Today I pulled the spare out of the M1102 and then moved the trailer closer to the barn and swapped out the flat for the spare and then ran to the dump and recycling yard and got rid of all the 40 series parts that were in the trailer. The weigh makes selling and shipping to expensive.
Last night UPS delivered parts from Redline in Colorado Springs with the bracket for mounting the prop valve I bought a couple of years ago with the Big Brake kit with 2 fittings.
I mounted the valve backwards first and had to remount it.
Double checked the web site photos and mounted it right. Like this photo. But when I tried to make up the fittings they were metric but and the prop valve was SAE threads.. I gave Redline a call and they are sending me a metric prop valve.
Today I worked on the rear break circuit from the MC to the fitting on the frame on the PS, and installed the 2.5 to 3" adapter to the turbo outlet.
Assembled the fittings and prop valve on the mounting bracket.
Got the old clutch SC lines out of the way and put the clutch and rear axle circuit lines through the bracket.
Broke lose both circuits from the frame tee and left the front circuit connected until I get the fittings for the front.
Rear circuit connected
Prop valve mounted
The 2.5 to 3" adapter came with 2 gaskets and v-clamps but when I tried to attach to the turbo discharge it would not connect and so I removed the discharge from the turbo and set it up in the vise. The gasket was to thick and the camp and flanges would not line up so I took the gasket out and assembled without it.
Bolted the discharge back to the turbo.
I placed an order with Summit Racing for another section of SS hose, and -3 ANx10mm x 1 fittings to complete the front circuit to the frame on the PS.
The parts from Summit were delivered yesterday so was running the front axle circuit to the tee on the frame today.
Installed the -3 AN x 10mm-1 fitting into the front circuit
Connected a 24 inch SS line to the fitting
The plug for a Tundra works in the brake fluid tank.
Routed the brake line behind the clutch MC and along the flange under the brake booster
Connected the 24" to a 54" and routed down to the tee on the frame and connected with a -3 AN x 10mm fitting and installed another -3 AN x 10mm fitting for the run to the front axle
Installed another fitting for run to the rear axle photo was not good but it is there.
Removed the brake and clutch lines from the firewall and pulled the tubing out
All three lines would not fit in the bracket but ran the front brake line inside the gusset on the firewall and used a heavy tiewrap to secure and get the clutch line as far away from the exhaust may have to get an elbow to get it even farther. I also used the FME plugs from the MC to cap the end of the AN fittings.
Reused a couple of the old clamps to secure the lines.
Where loose I tired the lines together with tywrap. There is more under the booster
Trying to get the M1102 back together and make room in the barn again.
Was getting the tires and rings warmed up Friday night
Then cleaned the rims to start assembling. Then worked on getting the rings pressed into the tires and I dont weigh enough to do what I saw on YouTube and my size 12s were too big.
Ended up using the tractor to press the rings into the tires
Before centering the rings I threw in a bag of balancing beads with the corner broke open
Rotated and centered the ring with a tire iron and kicking with the heels of my boots
Got the tire assembled and torqued the nuts to 125 lb/ft
Inflated to 50 psi and found the valve stem leaks at the thread so I applied sealant
The second tire did not go as smoothly but still had to used the tractor to press into the tire and seemed stiffer and was harder to center up the ring.
inserted the rear section of the rim and then had to pick up an bounce on the floor and beat with a hammer to get things lined up to bolt up the outer piece
Air test on the second tire
I just checked the air pressure in the tires and one is 46 psi and the other is 45 psi. When I filled them to 50 psi the temp in the barn was over 60 F and now it is less then 30 F and the temp gauge is about 9' off of the floor and the tires are on the floor. I am calling the air test good.
Once the barn was warmed up I set up the tire jack to lift these tires. It is rated for 150 lbs and the originals weighted 160 lbs but with the PVC bead lock rings they weight about 130 lbs with in the range of the jack but it did get one flange bent but was easy to straighten out so the wheel was plumb. The other problem was found when I had the 37" tire rolled on to the jack the center line was already higher then the hub and the jack was all the way down. I had to get creative and lift the trailer up so I could use the jack to get up to the same elevation. The rollers made lining up the studs with the holes in the rim. Would have worked better with two people but I was able to get it on the hubs once I could adjust the jack.
My high lift jack was to unstable and would not support the trailer without falling over and dropping on to the tongue jack. So I had to get out the hydraulics and get creative and used the extra rim under the tongue jack
Once I had the trailer high enough I could use a 1/2 ratchet to raise the jack and roll the tire to align with the hub and studs
I set up the tractor with the hitch and put the M1102 back on the wells and rolled out of the barn to transfer to the truck. Then took a road trip to see if the bearings were running cool and they were.
The cab cast a shadow and could only see the lunette ring and not the hitch and had to guess where the line up was on the lines in the camera and found the ring by brail and it worked.
Now that I have room again to work on the RJ40 I pulled the intake elbow and the short coupler out and rolled a bead that I did not do before because I was not sure where the bead roller was. I also did not like the bulkhead fitting in the 2.5-3" elbow because the internal threads were not 3/4 NPT all the way through and I had to put the nut inside the elbow and was not comfortable with that. I switched it out for one that was threaded for 3/4 NPT and put back together.
Rolled the bead on the coupling
The replacement bulkhead fitting with the nut externally now
Put the SS lines on the tee at the frame to run to the front and rear axle
Been looking on line to find tuner to provide me with a tune to eliminate the cooler and moved the EGT probe back to the center of the blank and have no plans to put it back.
