That has not been my experience within and 3.7 gears and 31's.
Not in first anyways. Most of the time, just let the clutch out and get into the throttle once engaged.
1st on an H55F is annoyingly short at an intersection.
Build Rebuild of Trusty
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That has not been my experience within and 3.7 gears and 31's.
Not in first anyways. Most of the time, just let the clutch out and get into the throttle once engaged.
1st on an H55F is annoyingly short at an intersection.
Depends. Honda civic and 35 ft/lbs. Some throttle and clutch use is inevitable.
Off road I had to abuse the F out of the clutch prior to the tcase gears.
That wasn't a power issue, it's garbage programming. It won't fuel aggressively with a throttle position of zero.
On the street is fine, but wedged in somewhere tight and wanting to just creep, it would struggle.
You did the tcase gears, and hopefully the programmer relieves some of that as well. The gears helped a ton. I barely touch the clutch in those scenarios now
POPO AGIE
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- #445
Well I have 4.11 gears and the H55F should work well and the tune the clutch engagement should be good and may not need to use 1st all the time to launch like a pick up 4 speed.
I have driven small 4 cylinder diesels in Europe with manuals and once I got the feel of the clutch and torque curve I was fine. The Skoda took me a little bit to be able to get it out of the rental parking lot then it was fine after that and turn off the auto shut off.
I am sure I will get this R2.8 and my drive train figured out.
I have driven small 4 cylinder diesels in Europe with manuals and once I got the feel of the clutch and torque curve I was fine. The Skoda took me a little bit to be able to get it out of the rental parking lot then it was fine after that and turn off the auto shut off.
I am sure I will get this R2.8 and my drive train figured out.
POPO AGIE
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- #447
The end of August I placed an order with JTOutfitters and was notified that it shipped without a tracking number but was processed and a label was created.
I got home from VA and moved all the the boxes of orders that showed up while I was gone. I was working on my 6.7 Cummins but kept looking for the clutch MC and SC but was no where. I sent JTOutfitters a response email and when I checked the tracking number it was never picked up by UPS. I notified them with a copy of the UPS tracking and so far have not gotten a response.
I got home from VA and moved all the the boxes of orders that showed up while I was gone. I was working on my 6.7 Cummins but kept looking for the clutch MC and SC but was no where. I sent JTOutfitters a response email and when I checked the tracking number it was never picked up by UPS. I notified them with a copy of the UPS tracking and so far have not gotten a response.
POPO AGIE
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- #448
Finished what I could on the Ram 3500 and jumped over on to Trusty.
I ordered elbows to go from the turbo inlet from 2" to 2.5" and cut a short section of intercooler tubing to join 2.5" to 3" elbow for the 3" tubing for the MAP sensor. I put a metal bade in my chop saw and it cut so much easier and cleaner then the composite blade did.
I had to trim the 2" end of the 2 x 2.5" elbow to get everything closer to the turbo and clear the other tube to the intercooler and the alternator.
I also cut the 2.5" x 3" elbow to also move the MAP tube back closer to the turbo.
Needed 2 M4 screws for the MAP sensor and got it installed. I hope the electrical connection will clear the hose clamp down stream from the MAP sensor.
I had to get a worm gear clamp with enough range to clamp the 2" end of the elbow to the turbo inlet because the clamp I ordered was to close to 2" and would not slide over the edge of the inlet so ran to NAPA and got a worm gear clamp with enough range to slip on to the elbow and over the bead on the inlet and with an extension was able to reach the screw and get the elbow snugged up.
Looking like getting a Donaldson air filter with a primary and secondary set of filters will work best and mount on the the PS fender like a military duce and a half. Should have the needed flow and capacity and can make up a snorkel to work with this filter housing.
Had to adjust other clamps on the intercooler tubes to keep everything away from each other. I have some covers for the t-bolts but right now do know where they are. I am going to need them this is getting to be like a porcupine.
I ordered elbows to go from the turbo inlet from 2" to 2.5" and cut a short section of intercooler tubing to join 2.5" to 3" elbow for the 3" tubing for the MAP sensor. I put a metal bade in my chop saw and it cut so much easier and cleaner then the composite blade did.
I had to trim the 2" end of the 2 x 2.5" elbow to get everything closer to the turbo and clear the other tube to the intercooler and the alternator.
I also cut the 2.5" x 3" elbow to also move the MAP tube back closer to the turbo.
Needed 2 M4 screws for the MAP sensor and got it installed. I hope the electrical connection will clear the hose clamp down stream from the MAP sensor.
I had to get a worm gear clamp with enough range to clamp the 2" end of the elbow to the turbo inlet because the clamp I ordered was to close to 2" and would not slide over the edge of the inlet so ran to NAPA and got a worm gear clamp with enough range to slip on to the elbow and over the bead on the inlet and with an extension was able to reach the screw and get the elbow snugged up.
Looking like getting a Donaldson air filter with a primary and secondary set of filters will work best and mount on the the PS fender like a military duce and a half. Should have the needed flow and capacity and can make up a snorkel to work with this filter housing.
Had to adjust other clamps on the intercooler tubes to keep everything away from each other. I have some covers for the t-bolts but right now do know where they are. I am going to need them this is getting to be like a porcupine.
POPO AGIE
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- #449
I woke up last night and remembered I have not made a provision to connect the PCV hose to the 3" elbow. I was going to use aluminum tubing for the elbow but the stack up was getting to long and space is limited.
I will order a bulkhead fitting that has a flange and then the nut is outside then thread a NPT to hose barb and use a better clamp on the hose then should not have any issues with FOD damage to the turbo.
I will order a bulkhead fitting that has a flange and then the nut is outside then thread a NPT to hose barb and use a better clamp on the hose then should not have any issues with FOD damage to the turbo.
Axis Industries sells a bunch of take off parts. I bought a spare vacuum pump, alternator, power steering pump, and another Murphy gauge. It was like $300.
I'm planning on getting a water pump just to have for the shelf. Probably some idler pulleys too.
Being an oddball engine that didn't come in anything, a trip tobthe autoparts store isn't going to get you much
I'm planning on getting a water pump just to have for the shelf. Probably some idler pulleys too.
Being an oddball engine that didn't come in anything, a trip tobthe autoparts store isn't going to get you much
POPO AGIE
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- #451
I have bought parts from Axis and Kevin has either sent me free parts or at reduced cost. He is also a good source of information more so for Jeeps since he quit supporting Land Cruisers. I got the sending unit kit from him that will work with my DD gauge package.
According to the YouTube videos from Russia either the mechanics or the drivers just destroy them.
We have a Cummins shop in town and if I cant find something I give him the ESN and he can look it up on his Cummins network with an exploded view and I can pick it off the drawing and he orders it. I have looked for parts on the Cummins parts page for the R2.8 like the M16 banjo bolt and it does not tell you what size it really is and of course it was wrong. I found one on line with the washers that was compatible with AN fittings.
There also is also a lot of parts on eBay like the front cover and I think the water pumps. I even saw a power steering pump just have to read to see if it is sourced in the States or China.
According to the YouTube videos from Russia either the mechanics or the drivers just destroy them.
We have a Cummins shop in town and if I cant find something I give him the ESN and he can look it up on his Cummins network with an exploded view and I can pick it off the drawing and he orders it. I have looked for parts on the Cummins parts page for the R2.8 like the M16 banjo bolt and it does not tell you what size it really is and of course it was wrong. I found one on line with the washers that was compatible with AN fittings.
There also is also a lot of parts on eBay like the front cover and I think the water pumps. I even saw a power steering pump just have to read to see if it is sourced in the States or China.
POPO AGIE
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- #452
Ran over to Lander, WY to the Toyota dealer and picked up the new BJ ignitions switch to install. The Cummins ECU has to see a constant 12v for the heating grid so cant use the glow position on the switch so I tapped it up good. Before pugging into the 2F harness.
Installed
Connected
Installed the new column cover with new screws
Worked on mounting the new battery tray and it was not going to be square because of the turbo outlet and the flange on the firewall. So had to compromise. I had to do a lot of grinding to get it to fit and cut the corner off of the lower tray for clearance moved as far back as it could.
Temporarily drilled two holes in the fender for bolts and snugged them up. Then found the last battery I bought for it back in the early 90s and did as test fit.
I still have to secure the tray on the firewall side.
Snugged up the tray bolts
Did a test fit of the last battery I had. The old battery doesn't have the capacity for the starting load now.
Installed
Connected
Installed the new column cover with new screws
Worked on mounting the new battery tray and it was not going to be square because of the turbo outlet and the flange on the firewall. So had to compromise. I had to do a lot of grinding to get it to fit and cut the corner off of the lower tray for clearance moved as far back as it could.
Temporarily drilled two holes in the fender for bolts and snugged them up. Then found the last battery I bought for it back in the early 90s and did as test fit.
I still have to secure the tray on the firewall side.
Snugged up the tray bolts
Did a test fit of the last battery I had. The old battery doesn't have the capacity for the starting load now.
POPO AGIE
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- #453
Today I tried to try to push out the dent in the cowl around the DS hinge and had to take out the gauges, pedal bucket, steering column, and the gas pedal to get into push with the new porta power kit.
Got as much as I could with my tooling a skill level.
Pedal removed
Column going back in
Got as much as I could with my tooling a skill level.
Pedal removed
Column going back in
POPO AGIE
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- #454
Column and pedal bolted back to the firewall
New clutch MC and SC
Mounted the new MC for the clutch
Was going to mount the new double diaphragm booster but did not get M10-1.25 all thread but M8 so cant mount the booster yet.
I also don't have mounting bolts for the SC so placed orders for new clevis pins for the brake and clutch pedals, spring for the SC and M10-1.25 all thread.
SS braided hose is in transit for the clutch.
New clutch MC and SC
Mounted the new MC for the clutch
Was going to mount the new double diaphragm booster but did not get M10-1.25 all thread but M8 so cant mount the booster yet.
I also don't have mounting bolts for the SC so placed orders for new clevis pins for the brake and clutch pedals, spring for the SC and M10-1.25 all thread.
SS braided hose is in transit for the clutch.
POPO AGIE
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- #455
First thing I did today was replace the cord on my mag base drill and both the motor and magnet worked.
Then I did some work on the R2.8 but can't share the photos but was getting ready to put a flange in between the EGR cooler and manifold to mount my EGT probe. Just waiting on the flange now.
Then I did some work on the R2.8 but can't share the photos but was getting ready to put a flange in between the EGR cooler and manifold to mount my EGT probe. Just waiting on the flange now.
POPO AGIE
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- #456
Went out and took the OEM vapor separator and replaced with the 3D printed vapor separator from Andy Joran of Compy Fabrication. Three bolts for the threaded incents and clamps were included.
cut the hoses from the old one and attached the hoses to the new one. I resued the top worm gear clamp because the hose was included with the new fuel tank and was to big for the provided clamp.
Bolted the vapor separator to the cover with the new provided bolts
The original OEM vapor separator
Then bolted the covers pieces all back in place and got all the bolts in this time, there is a little bit of flex
Then went back to the battery tray and took it all out again to drill a hole in the fire wall flange to bolt 1" angle iron to support the battery tray
Bolted the angle iron and checked for level after torqueing
cut the hoses from the old one and attached the hoses to the new one. I resued the top worm gear clamp because the hose was included with the new fuel tank and was to big for the provided clamp.
Bolted the vapor separator to the cover with the new provided bolts
The original OEM vapor separator
Then bolted the covers pieces all back in place and got all the bolts in this time, there is a little bit of flex
Then went back to the battery tray and took it all out again to drill a hole in the fire wall flange to bolt 1" angle iron to support the battery tray
Bolted the angle iron and checked for level after torqueing
POPO AGIE
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- #458
I finally got around to opening the Vintage Air heater and was looking at it and it has 2" defroster outlets and hose. I don't what to remove and replace the defuses at the windshield or the side defrosters. The stock hose is 3" and I think I can cut them as high as possible and get 2 2x3 silicone intercooler coupler and connect to two different sizes. Kind of like Apollo 13 making 2 different systems work together.
POPO AGIE
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- #459
Got parts in and was out working on the 40
Cut a hole in the elbow for the bulkhead fitting and a 3/4 NPT fitting for the PCV hose. I used loctite on the internal nut for bulkhead fitting and then pushed the MAP sensor tube up against a flat on the nut. I wanted the nut on the outside but the threads were not 3/4 NPT on one end of the fitting.
Checked the fit for the new defrost hose and coupler and it tight and will work fine. The clamp will hold it tight.
Cut the bottom of the defroster ducts off for the couplers and got them attached but were to big for the the ducts but with enough duct tape I got the clamps to hold.
Cut a hole in the elbow for the bulkhead fitting and a 3/4 NPT fitting for the PCV hose. I used loctite on the internal nut for bulkhead fitting and then pushed the MAP sensor tube up against a flat on the nut. I wanted the nut on the outside but the threads were not 3/4 NPT on one end of the fitting.
Checked the fit for the new defrost hose and coupler and it tight and will work fine. The clamp will hold it tight.
Cut the bottom of the defroster ducts off for the couplers and got them attached but were to big for the the ducts but with enough duct tape I got the clamps to hold.
POPO AGIE
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- #460
I had a flange made and it was finished today and drilled it for a 1/8 NPT plug and EGT probe.
Painted with layout dye
Preferred location for the EGT probe and because of the feral the depth is adjustable.
The way I have to run for now. m\My layout lines did not match up with the drill press center line so had to get creative and still broke a bit on the pilot hole.
Cooler back in place for now.
Painted with layout dye
Preferred location for the EGT probe and because of the feral the depth is adjustable.
The way I have to run for now. m\My layout lines did not match up with the drill press center line so had to get creative and still broke a bit on the pilot hole.
Cooler back in place for now.